Hi,
When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...
Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front loadwashers can make..
Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning
heatman101
SOURCE: My washer makes aloud noise when on the spin
sounds like the bearings have worn out at the back,to check this open door and with your hand lift chrome inner drum up and down if you feel like a knocking noise then its bearings,
SOURCE: when my washer goes into spin cycle it shakes real
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
We had the same (plus another) problem with an old Kenmore top load, direct drive,neutral drain washer.
Problem 1. Major gear sounding grinding during spin mode. Major vibration also.
After checking motor coupling (a bit worn but intact), drive block (you don't need a spanner wrench to remove it, a 12 - 14 inch pipe wrench works great) which was OK, clutch, seemed OK, we determined that the problems were in the transmission.
Two options, 1 spend $150 plus for a transmission.
2. Open it up and see if anything seemed seriously bad.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore)
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
the problem seemed to be related to the agitator cam and cam follower not raising the agitator gear high enough (probably less than a 1/16th of an inch) above the agitator cam.
Found the right part number (Whirlpool part # 62580 / 81) which includes both the cam and follower. Bought one for about $10.50, installed it, put washer back together and problem was solved.
Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.
Pull the transmission.
remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
Put the washer back together and I now have a happy wife. Everything works as it should.
NOTE. Fixing the washer takes a little mechanical ability (wrenches, socket sets, screw drivers, vice grips, short pipe wrench) and a solid desire to save some money.
All told parts cost less than $20 (I also replaced the old transmission oil with 80-90 weight oil from an auto parts store) saving over $125.
SOURCE: series 70 makes noise at the end of spin cycle.
KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made by Whirlpool.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.
Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.
Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.
A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.
Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.
As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
SOURCE: my washer machine wont spin but the motor is
The most common cause of the symptoms you describe is a broken motor coupling. No agitation, or spinning, associated with a grinding noise are the usual symptoms. The washer will still have the ability to drain, however.
The following link explains how to access the coupler and replace it, if necessary:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling
The part number is included with the instructions I provided. Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers I provided and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. The coupler is usually sold as part of their in-store inventory. The average cost of a motor coupling is about $15.
If you have any questions, or if the symptoms I describe do not match the problem you are having, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: My front loading washer makes
Hi,
When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...
Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front load washers can make..
Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning
heatman101
Hi,
When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...
Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front load washers can make..
Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning
heatman101
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