I am assuming you are calling the cylinder the jug on the engine. If you think the engine is leaking oil from the cylinder you have to replace the crankcase. The cylinder does not separate form the crankcase as they do on atvs. If you see the leak at a gasket, it could be a blown head gasket, valve cover gasket or a sump gasket. The sump gasket is the gasket between the crankcase and the sump. The sump is the part of the engine the mounting screws thread into. The valve cover gasket is between the head and the stamped steel cover. Replacing the valve cover gasket is easy. Just remove the four bolts to remove the cover. Then clean the old gasket off. You can apply a thin layer of rtv to help seal the valve cover. The head gasket is between the cylinder and the head of the engine. If this gasket fails, the engine can burn oil and/or leak oil. The head gasket is more involved to replace. You need a set of feeler gauges and a toque wrench to do the repair
SOURCE: 24 h intek broken rod
It is very easy to get and install a new engine. I would suggest Oklahoma small engines or Jack's small engines or Kansas City small engines. Oklahoma doesn't have shipping charges. The only thing you need to know is the shaft size and length. Craftsman mowers usually use a 3 1/4 " long by 1 inch shaft. The bolt pattern is the same where it bolts to the lawnmower etc. To find out what size shaft you have without taking the drove pulley and pto clutch off, you can take your exaact model and series numbers, call briggs to get the measurements; then call the online suppliers above and order a 44P777 or 44Q777 to replace it. P is last year and is on closeout. I got one for 700 bucks at my door. You will only need socket wrenches to get the 7/16 by 4" bolt from the bottom of the shaft, and four bolts from the housing then throw her away(recycle). I spent over half as much money on the old design and rebuilt my last engine perfectly and onlly got 30 to50 hours from it. when you hook up the throttle, you need to get someone with a tach to make sure it does not go over 3600 rpm. Do mark the old position of where the cable is clamped with a sharpie to get close. On my mower, the wiring matched exactly; which is likely in your case and all I had to do is cut my fuel line short to go to the left of the motor instead of the right side.
Oh, by the way the model # I gave you would be a 26 horsepower replacement and it will do fine. I don't think there are as many deals out there on the 22. They are the same size. the first two numbers in the model # indicate the size of the bore. The 22 has one eight of an inch less bore than the 25 hp. I belive the 22 model # starts with a 40. third # doesn't matter. 777 means vertical engine, standard bearings, pressurized lubrication, electric starter, alternator which is standard on craftsman mowers. Note: the engine I got did not have the ring that snaps into place around the recoil screen and should be ordered. I went ahead and ordered a tach at the same time. There is an exact sequence for setting the low rpm throttle setting, low rpm governer setting, then the high rpm governer setting by bending some "tangs" with an allen wrench that you saw a groove across the end instead of buying the tool.
Your'e ready to go with a new engine that has a two year warranty, a better system for filtering the air intake, and a better crank lubricating port arrangement than the original. Now, start using synthetic oil.
SOURCE: i have a craftsman 18hp ohv intek lawnmower will
check the battery and all connections leading to the starter
motorcraft fl-400 can buy at walmart
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