I have a Front Load Commercial washing machine Model # MAH20PDCXW that will not drain. The Drain pump has been replaced and there in a computer code that is displayed as d8. This machine has alot of water poured on the top of it due to water holding tank developing a leak. Do you know what the code d8 stands for? Thankyou for your time

James Greene

• 240 Answers
• Posted on Sep 09, 2007

SOURCE: Leak from maytag top load coin machine during spin drain cycle only

Possible that you would have a tub seal leak if it is only noticable during spin cycle. Possible that it "drips" slightly while in agitation, but not enough to notice it. While in spin mode you have a lot more parts moving as well as a lot more water pressure on the seal itself. Pump could also be leaking, but highly doubtful since it would leak a constant amount at all times. Good Luck!!! Jim

Karl Whisenand

• 1554 Answers
• Posted on Jan 29, 2008

SOURCE: My Maytage Neptune Front Loading Washing Machine

these units all use the same computer module to control it.
random failures are part of the symptom of bad solder joints on board.
loose cables to the control computer can be part of it too.

opening the top (3 scres on top back) and re-seating the connectors will take a couple of mins , the solder job can take 30 min or more.
see these links as this applies to your unit too even though the models are not the same.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t364216-whirlpool_duet_ht_ghw9400pl0
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=471156850&size=o

onthethejob1

• 640 Answers
• Posted on Jan 03, 2009

SOURCE: epic front load washer said suds, then nd, now has standing water

take to panel off and clean pump filter...

SOURCE: washes but won't spin or drain completely unless no clothes in

Hello screenman780
I will assume you are taking dc or UC errors to the display in spin cycle. Just need the first two digits of your machine serial number, ie. 10,12,16 etc. That information is located on the right back side of the machine console. If you are taking those errors I recommend removing the clutch inspecting the clutch roller bearings and clutch spring. There is a test to perform for the Tub Displacement Sensor that we could check first but 10 times out of 10… so far it’s the clutch. Most of the time a cleanup with WD-40 and re-lube of the clutch bearings with some light bearing grease will get you back in service. If the clutch bearings are rusted up beyond clean up or the clutch spring is broken then a clutch replacement will be required. I recommend this clutch as a replacement. I put that clutch in my machine (1st two digits of my s/n are 16) just to make sure it would work, my original clutch was cleaned up with WD-40 alone and worked as the day delivered on 7/05. Take a look and read thru the post in the link below. In that post I go thru a step by step process to replace the clutch (comment of 3/18). I can also offer some phone support no charge; I'm a DIY'er owner of the machine. I believe the repair cost (from previous post on this forum) to replace the clutch and labor will be around $300 if you don't DIY the repair/maintenance for this issue. Most of the clutch malfunctions are resolved with the clutch maintenance. Anyone can do this with only basic mechanical skill sets. If you can change the spark plug on a lawnmower you can deal with this, the work area is just tight. Here are some folks that had positive results with this maintenance. Unfortunately I feel many of these machines end up at the curb for bulk trash pickup when a $10 fix for some WD-40 a squirt of bearing grease or worse case a $50-$60 new clutch replacement. Good Luck and let me know if you need additional support, Rich.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t527875-maytag_neptune_tl

Here are some folks that did this maintenance with positive results.
Positive Fix1/19
Positive Fix 1/18
Positive Fix 3/4
Positive Fix 3/4 different Forum
Solution #4 posted on Mar 17, 2009

SOURCE: I have a maytag washing machine model PAV2300AWW

It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these: It spins, but doesn't pump It doesn't spin or pump It pumps, but the water returns It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems: If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.