WHEN PLAINING A BOARD IS COMING OUT WITH A UNEVEN PLAINING ON THE ENDS OF THE BOARDS ABOUT 3" TO 4" FROM THE EANDS.

Image processing Board and or the Machine Control board are not communicating. Check the connections between both boards. Have a tech come out check all the connectors on the boards check for a bent pin!!! worse case the board(s) are bad. Going to be tuff finding either board.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/normanj_7893313f0751935f

Is the thick 4 11 x 81/2? take the paper off the bypass tray, first send the job to the copier selecting the bypass tray the copier is going to beep telling you replenish paper in the bypass when you place the paper in the bypass make you follow the orientation of the paper on the copier screen.Might also want o replace the bypass tray roller set. If the Plain paper through Thick 3 work then you did not need to replace the main board. Are trying to duplex the paper????? When it jams where does the paper stop??

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/normanj_7893313f0751935f

Wish I had better news, but the information I found on this says, "E301-0001 Insufficient light intensity in shading" - the details I've summarized below. See the website listed for a full list of error codes. Best of luck with it!

-------- Quoting --------
When the same error repeatedly occurs after several times of turning the power OFF/ON, execute the following remedies.
(1) Check the connection of Flat Cable between Main Controller Board (J5) and Contact Sensor.
(2) Replace the Flat Cable between Main Controller Board (J5) and Contact Sensor.
(3) Replace the Contact Sensor.
(4) Replace the Main Controller Board.
----------- End Quote ------------
Sure hope its just a loose cable...
Mark
http://printcopy.info/?l=en&mod=free&chap=erc&brand=Canon&model=MF4412

The SE indicates a short in the keypad membrane, but to cure this! the whole keypad control board should be changed if effort to resolve is decided, I would also suggest checking the pricing.

I just had one of these in the shop. It was a bad Main Unit ( Apx $250-$350 for the part alone) Another problem is there can be 8 different versions of this board. There is the plain and the A version shown to the right of the model# . The A version has 4 different boards and the plain version has 4 different boards. There is a board # near the middle of the board with a # in a triangle above this # and is 1 to 4. You might find on EBAY or Shop Jimmy's for a low price, but it is a Gamble! John

I just had one of these in the shop. It was a bad Main Unit ( Apx $250-$350 for the part alone) Another problem is there can be 8 different versions of this board. There is the plain and the A version shown to the right of the model# . The A version has 4 different boards and the plain version has 4 different boards. There is a board # near the middle of the board with a # in a triangle above this # and is 1 to 4. You might find on EBAY or Shop Jimmy's for a low price, but it is a Gamble! John

I would suggest replacing the board itself, chances are what caused those fuses to blow is still faulty. did you check those fuses again after you powered it back up?

I have a COLEMAN 6250 Watt Powermate too, and it stopped producing 3 hrs into our blackout. I unbolted the four 7/16" bolts holding the end bell assembly, and looked at the circuit board (bridge rectifier assembly) and saw that 4 of the diodes had melted free from the circuit board. This is a $30 replacement part, and seems to be a common problem with these units. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/coleman_control_board.cfm
Other common and cheap to fix problems may be the brushes are worn out. Unscrew the phillips screws under the plastic tab on the end bell of the generator, and pull out the metallic rectangular posts attached to the copper wires. If they are shorter than 1/4", broken, or uneven, they may need to be replaced. They are about $3 each.
I probably drew too much power from 1 outlet on the generator, and it caused the board to fail instead of tripping the circuit breaker. (BTW, the repair shop told me it would cost $550 to replace the entire rotor/stator circuit board assembly. I have a strong feeling they didn't even look at any of the above parts, because they didn't have a clue as to what they were doing!)

I liken this to taking your car in because it won't start, and the mechanic saying you need a new engine!

Good luck!

It sounds like you have logic board problems. Take the main board out of the machine remove all power sources, batteries, etc. let the board sit 24 hrs. install board into machine. If machine works, it's fixed. If not replace main board.