KitchenAid KHMS155LSS 1000 Watts Microwave Oven Logo

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Posted on Jun 11, 2017
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I'm replacing the Magnetron. The 2 terminals are marked 'F' and 'FA' and are reversed on the replacement unit. Checking the wiring diagram the 'F' connects to the H.V. Capacitor and 'FA' connects to H.V. Transformer. My problem is that the factory wiring on the original magetron is reversed when compared to the wiring diagram that came with the appliance. How should I connect the replacement unit - as the wiring diagram or the factory installation of the wires?

1 Answer

Kihm Skillicorn

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  • Expert 21 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 13, 2017
Kihm Skillicorn
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Http://wiki.brandoncurtis.com/w/File:Microwave_Wiring_Diag this is a good diagram of a standard microwave. ive pretty much only seen on single mag ovens. "F" usually has a single wire from the hvtrans. "FA" is usually the gang off the cap.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 53 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 23, 2008

SOURCE: Any Whirlpool Microwave Techs out there...Please help a fellow tech

hi mike,

I’m sorry to tell you this but; I wouldn't recommend using a different transformer, even if it's the same size, it could cause serious damage. The HV transformer should only be replaced with the exact replacement part.

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MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 18, 2008

SOURCE: Oven won't heat even though each component seems to be functional.

Even though the magnetron passed the continuity tests, it can still be bad. In fact, most of them fail in ways that do not show up in continuity tests.

And I am 99% certain yours is bad, especially since you have proven that the filament voltage and high voltage DC is being produced and sent to the magnetron.

I must say that the testing you have done is not recommended for people without plenty of experience, but apparently you did it safely. Please don't press your luck, since the high voltage can be instantly lethal.

For Goldstar / LG / L.G. parts, call 1-800-243-0000 (M-F, 7am-8pm CT, Sat 8-5 CT) and choose the appropriate prompt from the menu or visit here.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Anonymous

  • 46 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 23, 2008

SOURCE: LG MS-2143RSL MICROWAVE OVENT NO HEAT

hi i am suggesting that it is probably the magy as the res to grndis a bit low and therefore loading the sec supply down , just a thought
cheers grant

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 05, 2008

SOURCE: electrolux microwave PLMB 209DCA sparks

No solution yet but have ordered a replacement high voltage capacitor. If this works, I'll let you know.
Your expert did not respond to one of my questions which was whether he had experience with this type of problem with a microwave magnetron. When he did not reply after a substantial period, I assumed he had given up on the problem.

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 13, 2009

SOURCE: Wires to magnetron

It matters!

The wire from the high voltage transformer high voltage tap goes only to one side of the high voltage capacitor. No other wire is connected to that terminal of the high voltage capacitor.

The other side of the high voltage capacitor connects to the anode (A) of the high voltage diode and to the "FA" terminal of the magnetron.

The cathode (K) of the high voltage diode is connected to chassis ground.

The pair of wires connected to the secondary (thinner) winding of the high voltage transformer are the filament wires and are connected to the "F" and "FA" terminals of the magnetron.

427ca4f.jpg

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

It has the overall wiring diagram and schematic.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

For further free help, e-mail me at http://www.microwavecontrol.com

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0helpful
1answer

Have a MMV4205BAB that my 84 yr old mom bought in 2007. Everything seems to work fine, But I does not heat. Can not fine a wiring diagram to see what everything does. If I measure the AC voltage at the HV...

Hello there,

When your microwave oven starts to zap, then eventually does not heat up, it means there is a problem inside the unit of the microwave. There are some parts to check inside the microwave before you can tell the exact component that is faulty and to know if replacement will do the job for you.

The three (3) main parts to be tested are the power diode, the high voltage capacitor and the magnetron.

But since all other components are working like the fan, light and clock, then it is most likely the magnetron. Here is how to test and replace the magnetron of your microwave.
HOW TO TEST THE MAGNETRON
Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.
There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:
TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.
TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.
Magnetron replacement
Have a certified and experienced appliance repair technician examine and replace your magnetron. This task is much too dangerous for the average layman to perform on his own.

Hope this helped.

Elect_Comp
0helpful
1answer

The model # is MH6110 XE. I started zapping occasionally and now doesn't heat up. Light, fan and clock still work.

Hello there,

When your microwave oven starts to zap, then eventually does not heat up, it means there is a problem inside the unit of the microwave. There are some parts to check inside the microwave before you can tell the exact component that is faulty and to know if replacement will do the job for you.

The three (3) main parts to be tested are the power diode, the high voltage capacitor and the magnetron.

But since all other components are working like the fan, light and clock, then it is most likely the magnetron. Here is how to test and replace the magnetron of your microwave.
HOW TO TEST THE MAGNETRON
Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.
There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:
TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.
TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.
Magnetron replacement
Have a certified and experienced appliance repair technician examine and replace your magnetron. This task is much too dangerous for the average layman to perform on his own.

Hope this helped.
Elect_Comp
0helpful
1answer

I am replacing a magnetron in a Whirlpool gm8155XJB-0 microwave. The schematic does not differentiate between the F and FA terminal connections. It only shows the filament connections without labels. The...

Poring over a few schematics, I see them connected both ways.

One one hand, microwave technology guru J. Carlton Gallawa says that it matters to achieve proper phasing (http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/Ch7Pg6.html), but he does not explain what the abbreviations mean or what the standard is for connecting them!

I'm an electronics engineering technician and microwave servicer with over 30 years of experience, and it seems pretty obvious to me that "F" would stand for "filament" and "FA" stands for "filament, anode."

So I would connect to the "F" terminal the transformer filament lead which has nothing else attached to it.

I would attach to the "FA" terminal the other filament lead, which is also attached to the downstream side of the high voltage capacitor and to the "anode" of the high voltage rectifier diode.

-del-wqmxc4x24vcwcbxsryr2s4io-4-0.jpg
William E. Miller, AS-EET
http://www.microwavecontrol.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide
"Recycling by repairing since 1982"
0helpful
1answer

No heat

Hello there
Whenever you have a no heat situation in your microwave this is due to the megnetron being faulty and needing replacementi will give you the full procedure to test and replace if needed

The following resistance tests will conclusively reveal a magnetron that is shorted or one that has an open filament winding.
test 1

1. unplug the oven make sure the oven is completely disconnected from any power source
2. discharge all power from the capacitors.
3. Carefully remove all leads from the magnetron terminals. Proper wiring is important so make notes of the wire locations.
4. Set the ohmmeter to its lowest resistance scale.
5. Measure the resistance from one magnetron terminal to the other in either direction.
6. The magnetron filament resistance should be less than one ohm. If this test fails read my next post on replacement


Test 2

1. With the meter set to the highest resistance scale, check from the magnetron terminals to the metal magnetron housing. (Be careful not to touch the meter leads as this will result in a false reading).
2. The meter should read infinity (open circuit) regardless of meter polarity.
3. Even a slight reading would indicate a defective magnetron.

replace the old

remove the wire that attach to the magnetron and mark to identify where they go
unscrew the screws that hold it in place and remove

1. Be careful not to strike or touch the antenna dome area
2. Be sure to transfer any add-on parts, such as an air duct or thermal fuse
3. Insure that the wire mesh rf gasket is intact and in place
4. Examine the rim of the opening where the magnetron dome is to be inserted into the waveguide. smooth out any irregularities, such as dents, pits, and burns. the rim surface should be bare metal, smooth to the touch. use light-grade sandpaper do not use steel wool.
5. If there is evidence of poor terminal connections i.e., discolored, burned, pitted connectors), repair or replace the slip-on connectors on the filament leads
6. install the new one and replace the screws and wires and marked then plug in the microwave and test



Hope this helps best regards mike
3helpful
1answer

I have a Natioanl NN-6207 Microwave,I have replaced the magnetron and the fuse, every time I switch the microwave on it makes a loud humming noise and blows the fuse. The magnetron has two terminals F and...

F and Fa could be the problem but.... You must check the power diode and the high voltage capacitor. One of these is most likely the reason the fuse failed in the first place. Ground the HV capacitor by holding an insulated screwdriver well back on the handle. The locate the Power Diode that will have at least ONE terminal that connects to the capacitor. Power doides are either 3'8 inch wide and 2 inches long or round an liik like a bit resistor with no color markings. ' Check the HV capacitor by rading each terminal to the case of the capacitor (no shorts allowed)
Then read across the capacitor terminals with the meter set on R x 10K. Watch for an initital jump in resistance and then it drifts up to infinity. Reverse test lead positions and you must get the same result. Resistance and then drift to infinity. Any other reading.... infinity in both directions, short to the case or short across the 2 terminals = bad Cap.
If after you perform the above tests and you still have the problem ... knowing you might pop another fuse there are 3 door switches. 2 of them will read resistance / continuity across the terminals when the door is close and one of them will read continuity across the terminals when the door is open. One of the 3 switches has 3 wires on it... the 3rd wire shorts the magnetron power when the door is open and the power relay / HV circuit is powered. This is a built in blow the fuse to prevent magnetron operation with the door open.

I think your are going to find that either the power diode or the HV Capacitor has failed.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
0helpful
1answer

We have a Goldstar GMS 1124TW and it has stopped heating, everthing else works.

Hello there
Whenever you have a no heat situation in your microwave this is due to the megnetron being faulty and needing replacement
i will give you the full procedure to test and replace if needed

The following resistance tests will conclusively reveal a magnetron that is shorted or one that has an open filament winding.
test 1

1. unplug the oven make sure the oven is completely disconnected from any power source
2. discharge all power from the capacitors.
3. Carefully remove all leads from the magnetron terminals. Proper wiring is important so make notes of the wire locations.
4. Set the ohmmeter to its lowest resistance scale.
5. Measure the resistance from one magnetron terminal to the other in either direction.
6. The magnetron filament resistance should be less than one ohm. If this test fails read my next post on replacement


Test 2

1. With the meter set to the highest resistance scale, check from the magnetron terminals to the metal magnetron housing. (Be careful not to touch the meter leads as this will result in a false reading).
2. The meter should read infinity (open circuit) regardless of meter polarity.
3. Even a slight reading would indicate a defective magnetron.

replace the old

remove the wire that attach to the magnetron and mark to identify where they go
unscrew the screws that hold it in place and remove

1. Be careful not to strike or touch the antenna dome area
2. Be sure to transfer any add-on parts, such as an air duct or thermal fuse
3. Insure that the wire mesh rf gasket is intact and in place
4. Examine the rim of the opening where the magnetron dome is to be inserted into the waveguide. smooth out any irregularities, such as dents, pits, and burns. the rim surface should be bare metal, smooth to the touch. use light-grade sandpaper do not use steel wool.
5. If there is evidence of poor terminal connections i.e., discolored, burned, pitted connectors), repair or replace the slip-on connectors on the filament leads
6. install the new one and replace the screws and wires and marked then plug in the microwave and test
13helpful
1answer

Wires to magnetron

It matters!

The wire from the high voltage transformer high voltage tap goes only to one side of the high voltage capacitor. No other wire is connected to that terminal of the high voltage capacitor.

The other side of the high voltage capacitor connects to the anode (A) of the high voltage diode and to the "FA" terminal of the magnetron.

The cathode (K) of the high voltage diode is connected to chassis ground.

The pair of wires connected to the secondary (thinner) winding of the high voltage transformer are the filament wires and are connected to the "F" and "FA" terminals of the magnetron.

427ca4f.jpg

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

It has the overall wiring diagram and schematic.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

For further free help, e-mail me at http://www.microwavecontrol.com
0helpful
1answer

My jvm1860sd001 model is not heating up

Check the following before you replace the Magnetron device.

1. Check the diode located inside the unit on the noise filter board assembly. it may be damaged.
2. Check the Magnetron Cut-Off Fuse. this will shut off the heating device if there is a fan issue.
3. Check the H.V. Capacitor for burn marks and, discolored terminal points. this will be a sign of a malfunctioning Capacitor device. replace if needed.

If all is ok with the above check list, replace the Magnetron tube.

0helpful
1answer

Electrolux microwave model number E305075FPSA

There will be one wire that will go to two and only two points: From the high voltage tap on the high voltage transformer to one terminal of the capacitor. There will be nothing else connected at either point of that wire.

The other terminal of the capacitor will have two or three wires connected to it. It will go to the FA terminal of the magnetron and to the non-ground side of the high voltage rectifier diode.

ff8823d.jpg

If you need further assistance, please feel free to contact me directly through the links at our site: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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