I'm replacing my gas furnace with a ac/heater unit that uses 240 voltage and want to know how many volts my furnace uses

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Gene

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Check line voltage if good then controlle volts that is 24 Ac smell the transformer clean draft hood, burners, fan assembly and filter. Call for heat if nothing check for 24 volts at gas valve if good change thermlocuple. Need more help ask give more info about furnace and what its doing or not doing

Hi, with just a heater and no air, the red would be the hot wire which goes to the R terminal on thermostat and clear which are normally white will go to W on the stat. If you have a heat only stat, it should have only the R and W connections. If a central heat and air stat, wire it the same, but you may need a third wire for the fan if it is forced air. You would be better off running down to the hardware store and getting a 24 volt heat only stat. I don't know what kind of heater you have, but make sure of the control voltage of the unit. Most gas, heat-pumps, gas & electric are 24 volts ac. Some heat only units are milivolts. Anyway, connect the 2 as I have said. Before you wire the 2 wires to the stat, touch the 2 together and watch to see if it fires up. It may have a delay, but should fire right up if the heater is working right. No danger of shock as this is very low voltage, nothing to worry about when testing. If it is a central type gas furnace, the voltage will be 24 volts. Please rate me on this as I know you will be kind. I chose not to charge you for my time on this thread. Keep me posted.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Heating Contractor

Have you tried the flue vent? If not, an easy way to check this would be to take the vent pipe off of the unit and see if it continues to have the problem. In most cases, this happens when you have blocked return air or dirty filters, flue blocked, or induction is blocked from switch or housing. One other possibility would be a dirty/clogged a coil which isn't allowing sufficient air to push out causing the limit to trip. I hope this helps somewhat.

Hi, If you are talking about an led light at the furnace, and it is blank, it should have a 3 to 5 amp fuse that plugs into the board. Pull it and check to see if the metal element is blown or burnt. If so, replace it. If you are talking about some other red light, please let me know. It sounds as though you have lost the 24 volt control voltage, so see if it has a fuse on the board. Keep me posted.
Shastalaker7

Hi, the control voltage to both indoor and outdoor will always be 24 volts AC. If this is a heat-pump unit, the high voltage to the indoor and outdoor will be the same, 208/ 230/ 240/ 277. If it is a split unit with a gas fired unit, the outdoor will be 208 or higher and the indoor will be 120volts AC. I'm sorry, you have the inducer motor, so it is gas! My mistake. Yes, always the gas furnace will be 120 volts AC and the remote condenser will always be 208 and higher. As far as replacing the inducer motor with a different kind, it will have to be the same voltage, 120, and amps, R.P.M's, 60hz, and made to pressurize and be able to vent Hot gases also. It must fit and operate like the old one. They should make a replacement universal motor to fit? Check with some of the wholesale houses on this and they can locate a motor to fit. Keep me updated on this please Don.
Shastalaker7

Thermostats are typically low voltage only no more than 24volts that is supplied from the transformer in your heating unit. you need to look at your low voltage wiring that is in the furnace and write down the terminals that are hooked up. Usually (this is a very typical set up) red wire goes to R which supplies 24 volts. green goes to G powers fan motor, white to W terminal and blue or yellow goes to Y terminal this terminal will usually have another wire in its terminal with it to control an outdoor ac unit likely another red or white wire, and lastly the C terminal has a white wire. That is for a basic heating and cooling system just match how they are hooked up at the main unit to the terminals on your thermostat. the thermostat is just a switch breaking and connecting terminals that allow voltage to carry through it. Shut down your unit while working on it as not to blow the transformer otherwise you are gonna need to replace it to if it isnt fused, that is probably my most common repair from people who have tried to change their own thermostat. Hope this helps

I think your problem is poor usage of the device,i.e. overloading the system. try running better cables to your furnace and ac. The reason i am lead to believe that is. If you already hired a pro to come and fix it for you,and he/she could'nt then what else could it be? in my experience ac units use electricity like microwave ovens.and power tools

I am concerned of the readings you have given. 120 volts to ground, but 168 volts to neutral? And having 10 amps of current at the "ventor", but only 1 amp for the whole furnace worries me, because power for the "ventor" comes through the furnace.

You should not have 168 volts to anything! Unless somehow 240 volts is feeding the system, and there is a medium resistance short somewhere.

The controller boards are sensitive to AC polarity (if you will). Neutral should be tied to neutral on the board. You can check that by testing for voltage between the neutral terminal and chassis ground (assuming the chassis is properly grounded.). The hot leg of incoming power, which should be 120 volts, should be connected to the terminal that says 120 VAC.

If your getting 168 volts AC somehow, then something is wrong, and you need to disconnect power from this unit until you find the cause.

As a heat-A/C tech, you should know the sequence of operation for all furnaces is pretty much the same. The boards, while manufactured by different manufacturers, all operate pretty much the same way.

Let me know your findings in reply and I will attempt to help you more.

pull the fuses and check voltage line to line with the fuses out you should have 208 to 240 volts if you have 50 or so volts try line to ground if you have 120 on one leg it will back feed with the fuses in,because of the windings involved. in any case you are missing one leg somewhere to get the voltage readings that you have poasted