I want to take a Marshall AS100D guitar amp and a Vox AC30 CCH guitar tube amp and a Vox Tonelab tube effects unit from USA to Zimbabwe. I intend to use a step-up/step-down transformer regulator in order to obtain 120V from the existing power there, but the frequency would still be 50Hz as opposed to the 60Hz listed on each of my amps. Question: will I have problems or risk damage to the amps at 50Hz?

I have the same problem. Have you solved it?

Hello,

I've seen a bunch of Marshall Combos and a very common failure comes from broken resistor legs at pre-amp and power amp modules insides, they are the low-value/2-3W rated and the soldered legs broke so easy because of enclosure vibrations, let me know a bit more to improve help...

Hi it could be that the switch has failed if it is something you are not confident with ask an independent electronics repair shop for some help. Sorry I cannot help more but I cannot see how the switch can be seized in the on (Depressed) position.

I had the same issue with my AS100D. When I first bought it the treble knob on the top channel was very responsive. At 10 is was unbearably "trebley". I was getting plenty of "high" treble set at 2:00, even 1:00. Then after about 6-7 mo, I started to feel it the brightness was leaving the amp. I was now putting my treble knob all the way to 10 and keeping it there, and it still wasn't enough. I had it serviced twice, no solution. Marshall got into the act and after months of going back and forth, they finally replaced the whole amp with a new one. I just got it. The treble was incredibly bright at 10, just like the former unit. But now after just a couple of days, I can already see the treble knob is not as responsive. I can't believe it! Now what?

The Marshall is a super clean acoustic amp.

The POD is overloading the amp.

Try the electric guitar input and keep the gain on the amp down, keep the EQ level and use the POD and the end volume to adjust the final volume.

The normal inputs is for a low output acoustic pickup - the POD is a high output electronic source.

Start with the Marshall gains low and get the clean sound good, then work on the gritty sound.

The amp is voiced for a sweet clean sound - if you want grit'n'ball change to a 50w Marshall valve head and a 4 X 12 cabinet.

Horses for courses

I haven't played or worked on a MG100HFX but I understand amp circuits very well. The behavior you are describing sounds to me like a bad capacitor in the Treble circuit. This is a problem that would require the skills of an experienced amp tech. If you are within your warranty period you might want to return it. If not, a good local repair shop should be able to diagnose the problem.

Good luck and keep rockin'!

Read your manuals for both pieces of gear carefully first. You only have one amp so you won't be able to take advantage of all the FX on the Digitech as a lot of them are designed for stereo. The Digitech manual shows guitar into the Digitech and output from the Digitech into input of any guitar amp. Since you have a Marshall and can already get some great sounds by running your guitar straight into the Marshalls input, you would probably be better off using your Digitech in the FX loop. Run a guitar cord out of the send on the loop into the input of the Digitech and a guitar cord out of the left / mono output jack on the Digitech into the effects return jack on the Marshall. Start out with the effects level on the Marshall all the way down. Do the same with the Digitech with both the input and output levels. (Read the manual carefully) I think the choice of the Digitech isn't that great because it is already trying to reproduce a lot of what you can already get with just your Marshall but with a little experimentation and some careful adjustments you should be able to add to the sound of the Marshall. Hope this helps.

IF this is a vacuum tube unit, these symptoms are that of a tube that the heater is intermittent, that is it cools off due to a break and then liights again.

Open the back and observe the heaters in the tubes. DO NOT be fooled by some that have TWO heaters in them. (use a mirror if necessary) A single one that comes and goes can cause the problem and the voiration can make it come and go. This behavior in a tube is NOT somthing readily spotted in a tube checker. The delay in fading and coming back would be the delay in warm up following a heater going out and cooling.

Blown speaker NO (would not get sound at all)

Bad Reverb UNLIKELY (controls would deselect reverb and it would be out of circuit)

Bad preamp tube NO (controls have no effect)

Bad rectifier and/or filter caps LIKELY

Bad power amp POSSIBLE