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That power surge probably burnt out the guse on the circuit board. I suspect you may need a new board unless you know an electricity geek who can replace the fuse. New I would check your warranty. That circuit board might cost $200. plus..
well there is a fuse located near the place the power cord attaches to the refrigerator you need to find it.Just check there is a sticker at the back of the fridge with the wiring diagram the rating of the fridge will be written on it as it purely depends on the size of fridge.For a average fridge it is 5 ampere fuse
I have a couple of things for you to check or rule out. Today, a refrigerator is required by electrical code to be connected to a dedicated, 15 amp outlet because the newer fridges are more efficient and use less than 12 amps. Not long ago, a dedicated 20 amp outlet was required because the older fridges were rated to use 12 amps or more (but less than 16 amps) and needed the larger size circuit. A 20 amp circuit breaker or fuse should not open for any standard residential fridge under normal operating conditions. A 15 amp circuit breaker or fuse _MAY_ open if an older fridge (needs 12 amps of more) is connected. Make sure that if a circuit is opening at the fuse or breaker, it is not because there are several appliances or devices in use and on the same circuit as the fridge.
The same holds true for "ground fault" and "arc fault" type circuits. If an older fridge is connected to such a circuit - nuisance tripping may result. Most newer fridges however shouldn't cause a problem on these circuits. Ground fault circuits have a "test" button on the circuit breaker or, "test" and "reset" buttons on an outlet providing this protection. Arc fault circuit protection is available only in circuit breakers (as of this time - but may become available as outlets some time in the future).
If you need to to try to isolate the problem on a 20 amp circuit, disconnect all other appliances on the other 20 amp circuits in the kitchen and dining room, then see if the fridge stays running. Alternatively, you could use a heavy duty extension cord to connect the fridge to a known isolated 20 amp circuit to see if the fridge runs. This is meant only to troubleshoot - the fridge should not be left connected via extension cord for normal operation.
If you still have tripping, you might need to have the fridge professionally serviced, as a ground fault could be a dangerous condition left unchecked.
Please rate this replay id found to be helpful - good luck!
Check your manual for fascia fuse box locations
Three fuse boxes are located
In one sunroof fuse number 30/20amp
In box three,elec windows circuit breaker fuses,
number 3/30amp front windows
number 4/30amp rear windows
the power windows are controlled through the Body Control Module. this module controls the windows through a circuit breaker under the hood in the relay and fuse box located near the master cylinder, it is
Position #62 30A CB Power windows circuit breaker, I really doubt this is the problem, but check it, if u have a short circuit the circuit breaker will be hot to the touch.
It probably has a circuit breaker located on the bottom of the fridge, behind the front filter. Also try looking inside the refridgerator side at the top. It may be red colored to indicate it is safety-related. Just push it in - but don't be surprised if it trips again.
WARNING: RESET ONLY ONCE TO AVOID A FIRE OR ELECTROCUTION SITUATION.
You may have an internal problem, in which case the freezer's circuit breaker is your best friend!
Note that the self-defrosting freezers have a timer that shuts them off periodically so they can defrost. Sometimes the timer does the defrosting in the middle of the day, giving the appearance of a failure. This could be your problem.
yes there should be. there should be a circuit breaker, try to reset that. then find the circuit protectors and check those. without model# I dont know locations but probably around the control panel.
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