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Need one inch diameter fine thread mounting washers for brass faucet valve body. Steel washers will work as well. The valve body is similar to a 0X6-140 R Roman Tub faucet rough in valve. The unit is 25 to 30 years old. I have double sinks and I am trying to save money by not having to replace all of the faucets.
Thank You,
Ray
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Plumbing pipe size can be misleading due to the fact the pipe diameter is based on outer diameter and the inner diameter varies with wall thickness. To determine standard pipe diameter you measure the outer diameter and subtract 1/8".
The typical 1/2 inch pipe has an outer diameter of 5/8" and like wise a a 1/4" inner diameter pipe is a 3/8". So likely the typical faucet connector is correct. But you may have something unusual so FYI.
Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.
To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.
Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.
Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's dirty.
Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass screw.
The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.
Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool. To replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repairs.
It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this allows it to outlast fixed washers.
Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.
If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.
Turn off the water supply valves beneath the kitchen sink. Turn on the faucet and squeeze the trigger on the sprayer to empty any water left in the supply lines, faucet and sprayer.
Trace the sprayer hose from the end of the sprayer to where it connects to the faucet. Use pliers to loosen the connector holding the sprayer hose to the faucet.
Remove the sprayer hose from the faucet to expose the male threads. Wipe the threads dry with a towel. Wrap the threads with pipe-joint tape. Twist a 3/8-inch threaded brass flair cap onto the male threads. Use the pliers to tighten the cap.
Reach beneath the sink and loosen the mounting nut securing the sprayer support to the sink or countertop. Use a basin wrench if you are unable to reach the mounting nut with your hand.
Slide the mounting nut off the hose attached to the sprayer beneath the sink. Pull the sprayer support and the sprayer from the hole in the sink or countertop.
Insert a sink hole cover into the hole left by the sprayer. Depending on the style of hole cover, it could snap in, or a mounting nut could hold it in place.
Hot water heaters are a collector of sediment. The proper care includes flushing out the collected debris through the low side drain faucet. The problem is the faucet is not designed correctly to carry out the needed task. If you are handy... turn off the water and gas or electricity to your water heater. Relieve the water pressure through the temperature/pressure relief valve on the side of the water heater tank. Once pressure is relieved close the valve. Determine if you have a 1/2 inch or a 3/4 inch diameter drain valve hole in the side of the tank where the drain valve is located. The drain valve can be removed with channel lock pliers, an 8 or 10 inch adjustable wrench, or a small 8 to 10 inch pipe wrench. Water will leak out the threaded hole while the valve is out. If everything is closed maybe 2 cups of water will leak out of the hot water tank as you check drain valve thread size. DO NOT take your time checking thread size. After you know the pipe thread size go to the hardware store ( Home Depot, Lowe's etc) purchase a short nipple (1 1/2 to 3 inch depending on available space) and a ball valve (brass) due to the water temperature. You will also need a brass adapter for pipe thread to garden hose thread (male both ends). This adapter goes into the ball valve to allow for the connection of a garden hose. Connect the pipe and valve together using the correct pipe thread sealant and install in place of the original plastic drain valve. Install pipe to hose adapter using thread sealant. With the ball valve in place turn the water back on. Gas or electricity back on. Connect a garden hose to the ball valve. Place the other end of the garden hose in a safe area as hot water and debris will be expelled through the hose. With water on, Gas or Electricity on and the relief valve closed actuate the ball valve to the full open position for approximately 3 seconds then close the valve. Repeat the open and close of the ball valve three times. Observe the debris that emptied out of the garden hose. You may be surprised at what you see. If the water runs clear, disconnect the garden hose the task is completed. You can wait until the following year to repeat the process. Your pipe and valve are now a part of the water heater, they may remain in place. Put the hose away.
Those are for the supply inlets, hot and cold to the faucet. If you are using supply hoses from your hot and cold water, you will not need these washers. You will need them if you are using rigid copper or chrome pipe to connect from your water supply.
If you have a choice, use stainless steel braided supply hoses instead of rigid pipe.
Shut off water supplyUnder Sink:·Unscrew brass connector for spayer hose
·Disconnect single water line to faucet bysqweezing lever on connector and
Gently pulloff.
·Loosen two screws on faucet base washers thenunscrew the washers
on thebrass faucet shaft ( NOTE: Have someone hold the fauct so it does Not accidentlyfall in sink when the support washers are removed)
·Take faucet out of sink
·Unscrew brass collar at base and remove
·Remove Set Screw on lower body of faucet
·Pull out Brass Mechanism from faucet
·The Diverter is located in the Brass mechanism
·Remove the Washer
·Pull off the small top valve in center of theDiverter, if still there
·Using a large wood screw that fits/screw intothe exposed hole In the center of
The plasticdiverter, screw it in and pull out the remaing part of the old diverter
·Flush out Faucet to remove any remaining debrie
·Replace with new diverter and replace washer
·Grease all areas that where greased when mechanismwas removed
Remove & clean the faucet Airrater and replace only afterEVERYTHING has been
Completed soyou can flush the faucet out again into the sink, then replace.
The exact procedure to remove the old cartridge is with a plastic removal tool.With replacement cartridge you have to buy this plastic removal tool.Also there is same metal removal tool available.With the help of this tool you can easily remove the old cartridge. Moen Cartridge Replacement Instructions
Moen shower faucet cartridge replacement is a project that will take some time to get done right. When is it time to replace a Moen cartridge? If you are like most people, you won't want to replace your old Moen cartridge until your old cartridge is starting to show its age.
Replacement is necessary, usually, once the old faucet starts to drip. Thankfully Moen faucet cartridge replacement is not difficult. However, if you are uncomfortable with doing the repair yourself, do not hesitate to call a professional plumber to do the job for you. This will guarantee that the job is done right.
If you follow these Moen faucet cartridge replacement instructions you will be able to replace your old cartridge by yourself. First of all, as with any plumbing repair, make sure that the water supply is turned off. Open the faucet to remove water pressure from the lines and let the remaining water drain from the pipes. You will then need to remove the faucet's handle by removing the decorative cover and removing the retaining screw. This will allow you to remove the handle.
Once the handle has been removed, work on releasing the splash plate from the wall. Generally there will be one or two screws to remove and the plate should release from the wall easily. From here the process begins to get a little trickier. Insert a shower stem socket onto the faucet valve's retaining nut and release the nut. Your Moen cartridge removal will be complete once you grab the cartridge with a pair of pliers and pull straight out to remove the old cartridge.
Clean any surfaces that you have access to and replace with the new cartridge. Follow all of the previous instructions in reverse order to re-assemble your shower faucet. Check to make sure that all the connections are tight before turning the water back on and testing the system out. Now in your case the broken/cracked while removing the old cartridge so try this procedure carefully to get the stuck -up old cartridge out. TAPPING the Threads into the Cartridge: Carefully hold one tab on the cartridge tight against the brass lip on the faucet body with needle nose and try to drive the 1/2" tap into the smaller bore of the cartridge. It will take about 15 minutes to slowly work the tap in all the way (maybe 3 turns?). Then back out the tap... remove needle nose. [remember to turn the tap 1/4 turn back, for each 1/2 turn forward ... this clears the metal particles from the tap and makes the next 1/2 turn forward go smoother].
Next, assemble a 1/2" x 4" threaded rod, so it had threads all the way to the two jam nuts on one end)... If you use a bolt, get one with threads all the way up to the head. you may find it hard to find - so try a carriage bolt and spin a nut all the way up to the head .... continue:
next on the bolt goes a 1/2 nut (this is the "jacking nut") and a flat washer so the jacking nut can spin easily against the next piece, a 1/2 drive socket (7/8" ) with the square hole toward the washer and jam nuts ( bolt head ). The open end of the socket faces the brass body of faucet and rests on the round brass lip... having the same inside diameter. This allows a space for the cartridge to be pulled into ( a cavity). Thread the bolt into the tapped cartridge and snug it up so the 7/8" socket is aligned with and resting against the brass body. If the cartridge spins smooth, the threaded rod is GREAT. You can just work with the 1/2" rod and use needle nose (or similar) to stop the cartridge from spinning, to get the rod threaded into the tapped threads in the cartridge... then, slip on the socket, washer and nuts.
Now snug it up tighter. Check socket alignment. Then begin turning the jacking nut ( the "extra" nut) until it contacts the flat washer and 7/8" socket. Now, as you continue to tighten the jacking nut, it will pull the 1/2 bolt (threaded rod) away from the faucet... and the cartridge will come along too. [You have to prevent the 1/2 rod from spinning while tightening the jacking nut. put a wrench on the bolt head.] This procedure is bit lengthy and requires some appropriate tools,but this will release the stuck cartridge out. Thanks. keep updated for any more
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You need to remove the sprayhead and hose from faucet and underneath you will see a brass threaded tailpiece that the mounting nut is connected to you need to turn the threaded piece counter clockwise.The faucet came with a paddle handle tool that fits in the brass tailepiece but I have used a basin wrench carefully to loosen without damaging threads
A noisy washer-type faucet is usually caused by a loose seat washer. To stop the noise, first turn off the water and take the faucet apart as described previously. If the washer is loose, tighten it or replace it. After threading the stem back into the faucet body, try moving it up and down. If it moves, the stem is worn and the entire faucet must be replaced. Some faucets are noisy due to poor design and construction. The only way to solve this problem is to replace the faucet with a quality one.
Many new faucets require some assembly before mounting to the sink; if that is the case, follow the manufacturer's directions. With most pullout sprayer faucets, the sprayer needs to be threaded through the faucet body first. Insert the rubber gasket between the base plate of the faucet and the sink top to create a watertight seal. If no gasket is provided, pack the cavity of the faucet with plumber's putty, then insert the faucet body through the holes in the sink top. Thread the mounting nuts provided onto the faucet shafts, then center the threaded shafts in the sink's holes and tighten the nuts firmly. Many manufacturers include a special long socket specifically to aid in tightening the mounting nuts. A hole in the socket accepts the shank of a screwdriver, guiding it as you tighten the nuts. If you're mounting the faucet on an installed sink, use this method. If you're installing a pullout sprayer faucet--or a faucet with a separate sprayer--now is the time to connect the sprayer to the faucet body. Check the manufacturer's directions to see if using pipe-wrap tape for this connection is recommended. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection. Most pullout sprayer faucets and faucets with separate sprayers come with a counterweight that attaches to the sprayer hose. This weight helps retract the hose back in to the sink cabinet after you've used the sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's directions on where to secure the weight, and take care not to crimp the hose as you attach the weight. Hook up the faucet's hot and cold supply lines to the water supply shutoff valves under the sink. If necessary, gently bend the copper tubes coming out of the faucet for better access and connect flexible supply tubes to them. Simply wrap a couple of turns of pipe-wrap tape around the threaded nipples on the valves and connect the tubes. Tighten the nuts with an adjustable wrench.
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