My freezer N308 F&P makes a little noise but motor not going. It is slowly starting to defrost and water coming out...I turned it off and on but same.

Feel top of the compressor and tell me how hot after it has been running awhile. I need also that you advance the defrost timer=>. 216517400 Defrost Timer

clockwise slowly untill the compressor stops or starts. I need to make sure the timer is not stuck into defrost. I want you to leave the compressor off for up to 35 minutes. If the freezer compressor doesn't restart bt then simply again turn the timer clockwise slowly until it does and then stop turning. The defrost timer is location 23 in this photo HERE If you need to turn the defrost timer like this to restart the compressor then replace the defrost timer and this will resolve the freezing problem. If not we move to the defrost heater location 14 in the sme photo=> 216254600 Defrost Heater

I am going to stop here until I hear from you, Thanks Sea Breeze

Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
Take care in solving the problem....

You should try to un-plug the freezer and let it stand up-right over night to re-settle the freon back down inside of the compressor.

The compressor should normally get hot if it is doing it's job right, and there is a starter for the compressor motor (usually it looks like a large capacitor) that could have failed, or the defrost timer (if it has one) could be stuck, and you should be able to see the small dial on the defrost timer slowly turning, and if it does not turn, then replace the defrost timer.

Dirty condenser, condenser fan motor is not running, freezer overpacked, bad thermostat, evaporator ice build up and it blocks the air flow. evaporator fan motor is not running or sealed system problem.

There are only two other parts in the freezer that can make noisei if your icemaker is off. The evaporator fan motor makes noise when ice builds up around it, and the blades start hitting the ice. It also makes noise when the bearings start to fail on the motor. Rarely, the evaporator will make noise when the freon is pumped through it, we will get all kinds of strange noises. This is not a problem usually as long as your termperatures are fine. To check these items out, you will have to remove the icemaker and the back inside panel in the freezer. With it off, you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. If it is a bad evaporator fan motor, replace it. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

Most likely you have a defrost problem. IF, you think the timer is ok then the most likely problem is the bi-metal. That is a little part usually on the top right side of the evap coil and has two wires on it. If you can find the defrost timer and advance it slowly till the refrigerator stops running, then being in the defrost postion you can see if the heater is coming on. If so you have a bad timer. If NOT, then either the heater or the bi-metal is bad. Usually it is the bi-metal

IF THE FREEZER IS AUTO DEFROST, DO YOU SEE A FROST BUILDUP ON THE BACK WALL? IF SO, YOU NEED TO DIAGNOSE THE DEFROST FAILURE. THERE ARE THREE ITEMS TO THE DEFROST CIRCUIT. THE TIMER, HEATER, AND BI-METAL. FIND THE TIMER, USUALLY ON THE BACK OF THE FREEZER DOWN IN THE CORNER NEAR THE COMPRESSOR. IT WILL HAVE A CONNECTOR WITH FOUR WIRES ATTACHED TO IT. IT HAS A KNOB THAT CAN BE TURNED TO PUT IT INTO A DEFROST CYCLE. WITH THE FREEZER RUNNING, START TURNING THE KNOB UNTIL THE COMPRESSOR STOPS. THAT WILL BE THE DEFROST CYCLE. THEN WAIT 5 MINUTES AND LISTEN IN THE FREEZER FOR A SIZZLING NOISE AND LOOK FOR A GLOWING FROM THE BACK BOTTOM. IF THE HEATER IS ON, THE TIMER IS THE PROBLEM. IF THE HEATER IS NOT ON, THE HEATER OR BI-METAL IS AT FAULT.
IF THE FREEZER IS NOT AUTO DEFROSTING, CHECK TO SEE IF THE COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING. IF IT IS, ARE THE SHELVES ALL FROSTED? IF NOT, YOU HAVE A SYSTEM FAILURE. IT COULD BE A LEAK, RESTRICTION, OR FAILED COMPRESSOR.

sure its on ly 3 years old. you rseled system should be covered for 5 years (compreessor, freon, evap, condesor). was it making a buzzing noise?? trying to start and clicking right off??? thaose are sounds a bad compressor makes,

checking a def system is kind of easy. if you have located the defrost timer just turn the little knob on the timer until the unit shuts off, shortly you should hear "hissing and pooping" from water dropping on the heater. this lets you know that the defrost thermostat is good. if you dont hear this noise check your def thermostat and heater for continuity. if you put it into def and the heater comes on then you have a bad timer..

bec,

Sounds like you are freezing up! The coils are so frost-laden that they will not allow the unit to function. The unit will need a complete defrost. I'm not familiar with the exact layout of this unit but I can tell you that it needs to be shut down, have warm air blown into the fan area and completely freed of ice. If you just leave it open and turned off, this takes about 2 days.

Possible causes: humidity in the air is condensing...very humid area, too much 'window shopping', not closing the door completely, possible damaged door gasket.

Others: (on older units)

Possible defrost timer problem...or low gas. Try the defrost route. We'll go from there.