Which side do you connect the live leg on a leviton two single pole "stacked" toggle switch. Black screw or brass screw? email address: [email protected]

red never connects to black as that is power to neutral if wired correctly
get in a qualified electrician to check the wiring and help you install the unit

the 5641 is a dual switch for three way and single pole. If you want the switches to operate the CF. Connect the power to one of the two screws on the right side as you face the switch. then connect one wire to the screw on the bottom left side. connect the other screw to one of the two screws on the top left. This assumes the Red and Black you mentioned are the switch legs going to the CF.

Open following link to see illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-gang.jpg

Each residential electric box has 1 hot wire. This wire should be black.
Hot wire carries power from the breaker box.
Use tester and find hot wire.

Each device in box connects to the black hot wire using short jumper wires.

Outlets: Hot wire connects to brass colored screw.
Single-pole switches: Hot wire connects to either brass-colored screw.

Neutral wires are usually white, and are twisted together.
Neutral wires connect directly to silver screw on each outlet.

Wire going to lights connects to other brass screw on each switch.

You have a three way switch in your hand ... which is used in conjunction with a second three way switch. The two black screws are called the travelers (and are connectedd together). The brass screw on switch #1 gets load (work) and the brass screws on #2 gets line (power).

If you are only turning a light on at one location, you need a single pole switch. Basically, you break the black wire with the switch.

If you need more assistance than this, post a comment.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

Switches are not identified.
Single-pole switches are wired differently than 3-way.
Wire colors are not identified. Some boxes have red and black wires that carry power.
Add a comment and fill out details after studying image and reading information.
I am not there, so you can also add a comment and include in-focus photo of your switches that you posted on Flickr.

Following image shows single-pole switches, with typical black and white wires.
No bare copper ground wire is shown. Ground wires connect to green screw.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-g.jpg

So your new switch has 2 brass screws. No white wire connects to single-pole switch. One screw will have 1 black wire that goes to light fixture. The other screw will have 1 or 2 black wires that jumper or connect to the other switches as shown in image.

White wires are usually twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.

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You question does not make sense to electrician.
So add a comment with more detail.

Here's what I can say so far:
1) Single-pole switches have 2 brass screws plus green ground screw. Line and Load wires connect to either screw.

2) Double-pole switches have 2 brass, 2 dark, and green ground screw. Do continuity test with multimeter to check relationship between screws.

3) Some people say double-pole when they mean 3-way switch, that has 2 brass, 1 dark, and green ground screw. Dark screw is 'common' for both Line and Load wires.
Screws are color-coded and tell electrician how to wire device.

Electricians don't guess, they test. So if there is confusion, electrician will test wiring before connecting switch.
That's as far as I can go without more information.

Please add a comment and give full information what you are doing, and what color screws you are working with, and how many different cables enter the box, and what relationship is between single-pole and double-pole switch.

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Hook one of the wires that was connected to the black wire to the silver screw, one to the brass screw. Does not matter which. If there is no ground (bare or green) then you can hook one from the green screw on the switch to the box where the other grounds are connected.

easy one first: ground wire to green screw. We have to assume the two black wires are the hot(coming from power source) and switch leg(going to light). Switch will have two brass colored screws. Looking at the switch with the off/on markings right side up. Put hot wire on upper screw and switch leg on other brass screw, With nothing hooked up, the hot wire will be the only wire with voltage on it. You can buy a non-contact voltage tester at Lowes or any place that sells electrical supplies. Now we must assume the two white wires are neutrals(one coming from power source and one going to light. The pilot light part of the switch will either have a silver colored screw or a white pigtail on it. all whites hook together. The pilot light is wired internally to the switch leg. Your switch should work properly now.

Electrician test wiring before connecting anything.
First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
Single pole is where 1 switch controls the Load (light fan motor)

Your wiring sounds like 3-way switch.
3-way is where 2 switches control same Load.
For example a hallway usually has 3-way switches.

To confirm. If old switch has 1 dark screw, 2 brass screws, and 1 green screw, then that is 3-way switch. Use Leviton LTB15, LTB30, LTB60, LTB02, LTB12 countdown timer for 3-way.
Smarthome sells product and shows .pdf manual
http://www.smarthome.com/4255/Leviton-LTB60-1LZ-4-Button-10-20-30-60-Minute-Countdown-Timer-Switch/p.aspx


2) If old switch has 2 brass screws and 1 green screw then that is single-pole switch.

3) If you are replacing single-pole switch, here are testing & wiring instructions for Leviton timer.
Remove device and separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary two wire tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Do not untwist wires that were twisted together before you started.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now you know Hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each of the other wires, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral. Timer white wire connects to Neutral wire.
If box does not contain Neutral wire, then timer white wire connects to bare ground.

Timer green wire connects to bare ground wire.
Timer red wire connects to wire going to Load.

I think you have your wires connected to wrong screw.

Wiring devices have screws that are color-coded as you noticed.
The Hot wire from breaker connects to dark colored screw(s).
The wires to Load (ceiling light-outdoor light) connect to brass screws.

If you need more help, add a comment at bottom and I will help further