I am installing a ZP600EB Lightolier Dimmer switch, which was recommended by the manufacturer (Robern Cabinets) to power the fluorescent lighting that was included. I have installed and wired per the directions. The directions say that the LED on the on/off switch will not come on if dimmer switch is not wired properly. LED is on. However when I checked across the black and white wiring that will be connected to the fluorescent lamps, I am still receiving power ( I have not yet connected to the fluourescent lamps). The on/off button with the LED is a push type. I am making the assumption that when you push the button to the off position, it is like a toggle switch - power is off. Is it the nature of a dimmer switch to allow some current to flow based on resistive loading of the fluorescent lighting? Or do I have a dimmer problem or electrical problem?

To replace a three way switch with a dimmer, you need to use a three way dimmer.

That switch says on it that it is for fluorescent lights only. I don't know if you can use compact fluorescent bulbs on that system, perhaps verify if you can or not. The switch has electronics in it and may need that ground wire to get 120 volts to operate. If you have incondescent light bulbs return and get the correct dimmer.

Hi Frederick,

I'm an electrician and would like to help you solve this problem. I have several questions to ask to help narrow down the cause.

Is this switch installed in the same box as another dimmer switch?

Did you need to modify the heat sync fins to fit the switch into the box?

Was this dimmer recently installed to replace a switch or old dimmer? If so, what was there before?

How many bulbs and their correscponding wattage and type (incandescent, compact fluorescent, etc.) are being controlled by the dimmer?

Is there any non-lighting load connected (paddle fan, etc.)?

Can you provide the dimmer manufacturer's name & model of the dimmer? You said you have a "2 way" dimmer and there is no such beast - I suspect that you have a 3 way dimmer.

Without answers to the above - I suspect either an excessive heat issue due to overloading or ganging of several dimmers in one large box or improper use of the dimmer controlling a motor or other non-lighting or non-dimmable load.

Leave a comment with the answers and I can help pinpoint the problem.

Hi -

The Lutron D600P is a preset single pole dimmer. Wiring is pretty straight forward as show in this diagram. Recheck wiring and if OK, continue below.

If power is present on both wires (black / red wires), power is being passed through the switch to the lamp and the light should be on. If not, try replacing the lamp.

Minimum recommended connected load is 40 watts. This switch is ONLY for use with filament type lamps - such as traditional tungsten, halogen, etc. It is NOT to control speed of Fan Motors, nor dimming of CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) energy saving types or other ballast operated lamps such as High (or Low) Pressure Sodium, Metal Halide, Fluorescent, etc. as this would create a high heat condition and could cause a fire.

If you're still having trouble, you can contact Lutron Technical Support Center 1.800.523.9466 24 hrs / 7 days www.lutron.com

I hope this helps & good luck!

If you have determined the wiring to be correct, then yes, the remote is probably defective..

According to Lightolier literature, your Lightolier OS600 is called a "strap dimmer". Having 540W on a 600w rated switch is pretty close to the limit (90%) of the switch, and will cause the switch to fail sooner than say a 300w load. The 600w rating of the switch applies only if all the heating sink fins are in place. Often times, when installing in a box with another switch or dimmer, fins must be removed to allow the switch to physically fit. If any fins are removed, the rating of the switch is reduced. Page 30 of the manual shows that a 600w strap dimmer that has a single fine removed is reduced to a 500w capacity dimmer, and if both fins are removed, it is reduced to a 400w dimmer. You may find that you will need a 1000w dimmer to reliably gain control of your 540w load, as it will control 600w even with both fins removed. This derating is required due to the heat created by the dimmer. Heat is a killer for electronics, and solid state dimmers are no exception.

Check out page 32 of that manual. On it, are wiring diagrams for dimmers and switches. I believe your is figure "G" that shows the 120v "hot" (black) connected to the black wire of ALL switches, the yellow wires of ALL the switches are connected together, but are not connected to anything else, the 120v neutral (white) connects to the MASTER white wire AND light fixture white wire and finally, the MASTER red wire connects to the light fixture black wire.

It is also important to note that these switches are for standard tungsten incandescent and quartz halogen lamps ONLY. They are NOT suitable for CFL, Fluorescent or other types frequently found in commercial / industrial buildings such as neon or other gas lamps such as Metal Halide, Mercury Vapor, High Pressure Sodium, etc.

I hope this helps & good luck!

I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem. Assuming that this dimmer was installed correctly because it had been functioning properly earlier, the short answer is that the switch has failed.

Dimmer switches are solid state devices, not unlike a modern stereo receiver. Like the receiver, it uses components called transistors and rectifiers to control power that can and do eventually fail. Installing lamps with a total wattage greater than the dimmer is designed to operate will cause it to fail prematurely. Most dimmers are rated for 600 watts, unless marked otherwise. Dimmers are used to control incandescent lamps (those with a filament - unless a compact fluorescent lamp package states it can be dimmed) only. Dimmers are not suited to control the speed of a motor (as is often found in the case of a ceiling paddle fan / light fixture). Use of them in this way creates excessive heat at the motor that can cause a fire.

If you are trying to use the dimmer in these conditions detailed above, it will be a cause for premature failure. Likewise, accidental shorting of the output of the dimmer will cause it to fail instantly.

You will likely need to replace the switch with a dimmer or standard toggle switch to gain control of the load again. If after correcting an excessive wattage load or removing a motor from the output of the switch - and trying a dimmer again, be sure to shut the power to the switch off before wiring and follow the instructions.

If you are installing this dimmer to replace and existing switch or dimmer, please provide more details including the switch manufacturer's name and model, the type and size of load being controlled, number of wires, etc.

I hope this helps & good luck

Hi James, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

From what you describe, the wiring in the switch box is for a standard, single pole switch or dimmer, and is not compatible with this replacement switch. Here's why: you stated that there are (2) wires in the box, a black and white insulated wire, that once fed a dimmer switch. Common wiring practices would suggest to most electricians that the white wire is the 120 volt "hot" supply and the black is the switched leg - or output of the switch to the fixture.

The replacement inductive dimmer switch is not a standard switch. It is designed to control inductive loads - or motors such as a fan. It does not simply control the flow of current - but actually uses a small amount of electricity to do this. This means it needs a complete 120 volt circuit consisting of a neutral and hot wire; and wire for the output of the switch to the motor. A total of insulated 3 wires. You have only two.

If you have a neutral in the box, you can use the switch if wire like this:

120 volt "hot" to the switch Black
120 volt "neutral" to the switch White
120 volt load wire (to motor) to the switch Red
The switch Yellow should be taped or capped off and is used only in a three way application.

The "arm switch" cuts power and the wheel is used to set low speed setting. You can see the info sheet here.

As mentioned above, this switch is used to control a motor - not a light. The same way a dimmer is used to control a light - not a motor. If you do not have access to a neutral in the box, you should either install one or, use a different switch. There are motor speed control switches that do not require a neutral wire and cost under $25.

If you need to control both light and fan there are products that are installed in the canopy of a paddle fan that will do this for under $50 and are operated via a wireless remote that can be secured to the wall such as those below:







These can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and electrical supply stores.

I hope this was helpful & good luck!

It depends. Some dimmers are considered "smart dimmers," where the control on the other end of the 3-way has to be intelligent enough to send a signal back to the dimmer. If the Lightolier dimmer was a smart dimmer, then chances are that the 3-way control was designed to talk only to that specific dimmer. The Leviton product you replaced it with is a simple, basic dimmer - it should work in conjunction with a simple, basic 3-way switch.

If the 3-way control already IS a simple, basic 3-way switch - then I would simply re-check the wiring of the dimmer you replaced.

i believe thats a magnetic ballast couldn't find it on the net... but anyway use a magnetic type dimmer for a magnetic ballast and an electronic flourescent ballast dimmer for the same..

14 years does seem like a reasonable life span for a dimmer. My suggestion is to turn the circuit off, take the dimmer out, wire nut the two wires together, turn the circuit on. If the light comes on normally get yourself a new dimmer ($10). Make sure to turn the circuit back off before installing the new dimmer.