I have 12 volts constant on my power wire coming from my battery but when I connect the p.cont. wire to the amp the voltage drops out. The green indicator light comes on for a split second then fades away as the voltage drops out. How do I fix this?

The battery is not being charged OR is no longer accepting a charge.

The inverter does not charge the battery. An inverter consists of components that first convert the battery's low (12) volt "direct current" (DC) power used to power automotive devices to a higher (120) volt "alternating current" (AC) power that is required by nearly all household appliances to operate properly.

The charging of the battery occurs when either the RV's engine is running and spins the alternator, etc. OR when connected to another charging device - whether it is permanent or portable.

With the RV engine running, there should be about 13.5 - 15 volts, DC on the battery posts or terminals. This voltage is coming fromt he RV alternator and since it is greater than the 12 volt battery, "charges" the battery. If you use a portable charger - that is part of a generator, or plugs into a power port at a camp site, etc. this will charge the battery.

When none of these things is happening, the battery voltage will slowly drop. Once it is at ~10 volts, it is "dead" and will need to be recharged.

The battery will no longer accept a charge if a "cell" inside it has "opened" or "shorted", or if the battery is at the end of its useful life. The battery state can be checked quickly by any mechanic.

I hope this helps & good luck!

red - ignition switched 12 volt
yellow - constant power 12 volts
black - ground wire
orange - dimmer wire don't use

speaker wires

drive side front
white +
white/black strip -

passanger front
gray +
gray/black strip -

drivers rear
green +
green/black strip -

passanger rear
purple +
purple/black strip -

blue - remote amp turn on wire
blue/white strip - either power antenna or remote amp turn on also

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Not only do you need a 12 volt supply (13.8V) to operate this winch, but you also need a.) wire large enough to carry the electrical load, and b.) a power source that has the necessary current (amps) to turn the motor.

If you have wires that are too small, they will heat up and not be able to deliver the current (amps) required by the motor. If your power source is to small - it can not supply the current required. The result of either conditions is "voltage drop". This can be explained the same way your car needs a 12 volt car battery to start. If that car battery was dead, you couldn't connect eight "D" cell batteries (8 x 1.5volts = 12 volts) together and attach to the car's battery cables and expect it to start. This is because the amount of current available in the car battery is hundreds of time greater than eight "D" cell batteries - even though when the D cells are connected in series - both systems deliver 12 volts.

If neither of the above conditions is present, then there could be an electrical problem with the drive motor itself. This could be a shorted / melted winding or other electrical connection that is not right, even if the drum spins freely.

Too much current (amps) being drawn ..and is dropping the voltage.

Usually due to a failing battery.

Does it maintain the 12v or more with the engine running?

If this helps you then please help my rating,voting for me would be great too thanks.

Black - Ground
Blue - Power Antenna / Control for an AMP
Orange - Constant 12 Volts
Red - 12 Volts when the ignition is on, 0 Volts when it's off

[Speakers]

[Front]
Gray - Front Right Positive
Gray Black - Front Right Negative
Green - Front Left Positive
Green Black - Front Left Negative

[Rear]
Gray Red - Right Rear Positive
Black Gray - Right Rear Negative
Green red - Left Rear Positive
Black Green - Left Rear Negative

Here's how it goes:
Speaker wires:
grey=right front pos.
grey/black=right front neg.
white=left front pos.
white/black=left front neg.
violet=right rear pos.
violet/black=right rear neg.
green=left rear pos.
green/black=left rear neg.
red=12 volt switched power source
yellow=12 volt constant power source (direct to battery)
black=chassis ground
orange/white=illumination (switched source,not to head light switch)
blue/white=amp turn on lead (to remote turn on lead of amp)
blue=auto antenna (switched power source)
brown=phone mute lead (to cell phone mute lead)
RCA connector leads:
grey lead:
red=right front
white=left front
black lead:
red=right rear/right rear subwoofer
white=left rear/left rear subwoofer
(connect to external amp)
red lead:
red=right aux input
white=left aux input
(connect to external unit)
green lead:
red=right dual zone output
white=left dual zone output
(connect to wireless head phones)
That should be all there is. on the yellow that goes direct to the battery you need to use an inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuse.

Make sure this high powered amp is not mounted directly to the chassis of the car. Mount it to a wooden board and you can screw board into the car. Because some very high powered amps can arc and damage itself.

Next make sure the tubular fuse in the hood is not bad it may look good but internally it got real hot and caused a bad solder connect in the fuse. You can test it with a meter. Measure one side then the other side if the 12 volt is going thru the fuse.

Next step is now you know your amp is getting 12 volts from the car battery but do you know if your amp turn on signal is turning on the amp itself. This is a easy test get a little wire and jump the 12 volt to the amp turn on wire if the amp comes on then you have found your problem. The amp turn on voltage is too weak were ever youve connected the signal. Normally you hook it up to the blue/white wire on the back of the radio first. If it doesnt have one hook up to the blue. Now on some very rare occassions the voltage drops when you put a load to it and is not enough to turn on your amp you can easily see this if the voltage across the blue wire goes below 12volts so hook it up to the red ignition wire so at least when you turn on your radio the red will send 12 volts to the amp to turn it on and will not drop in voltage. You see that wire has to be 12volts when it drops the amp will not turn on. Same with the battery Voltage you have to maintain 12 Volts or higher for the amp to operate.

Here you go:


[POWER]
Red: 12 Volt switched
Yellow: 12 Volt Constant (FULL TIME FOR SETTINGS MEMORY RETENTION)
Black: Common ground
IF YOU HAVE AN ORANGE, it is for DASH BOARD lighting sense to dim the radio similar to the stock radio. (Best if snugly covered and isolated. and not used.)

Blue: System Power on sense for any amplifiers, also known as "P.CONT.", "rem.", or "remote wire"
Blue White: Power antenna up/down

[FRONT SPEAKERS]
White: Left Speaker POSITIVE (+)
White Black: Left Speaker NEGATIVE (-)

Grey: Right Speaker POSITIVE (+)
Grey Black: Right Speaker NEGATIVE(-)

[REAR SPEAKERS]
Violet: Left Rear POSITIVE (+)
Violet Black: Left Rear NEGATIVE (-)

Green: Right Rear POSITIVE (+)
Green Black: Right Rear NEGATIVE (-)

bad head unit or look at your ground wire good luck

There may be more than one problem. The fact that the radio AND the amp are seeing a voltage of 7v indicates that the battery is weak or there is a bad connection somewhere in the power line.

It's also possible that the amp is defective (shorted output transistors?) and when it turns on, it's drawing excessive current. That would cause the voltage to drop more than normal. If the amp is drawing excessive current AND there is a bad connection in the power line, the amp may begin to blow fuses (depending on the reaction time of the protection circuit) when you repair the power line problem.