Question about Fisher and Paykel Refrigerators
Do you have a temp gage to check the temperature? set the freezer at 0 Degree and the fridge to 36 Degrees.
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Posted on Jan 15, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: constant dinging
Please explain "dinging". When the machine stops, does it give a series of beeps and produce a fault code. The fault code is normally identified by the lights ( led's) that flash on the display module when the machine faults. When you look at the lights from left to right each one that is off represents a 0 (Zero) and each one that is lit represents a 1. ie If lights are on off on on off off the code would be 101100. If you can give us the fault code, we will be able to tell you what the problem is.
Posted on Nov 04, 2007
on reading the user manuals, it suggests actually calling the F&P customer service numbers and telling them the pattern of the lights flashing.
They can ?diagnose the fault from the light sequence and can then tell you what u need to have fixed.
Posted on Jan 08, 2008
try removing hte screws from the rear of console and within the console usually is a techsheet with an explanation of hall hte major faults
Posted on Mar 12, 2008
First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.
Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.
Posted on May 12, 2008
Hi, welcome to FIx Ya...
1. Unplug machine.
2. Slide drawer open, remove two pegs that secure front panel to drawer (one on each side of drawer)
3. Slide front panel down and out, remove green ground wire.
4. Depress tabs that hold bottom plastic cover on bottom of drawer and remove entire cover, being careful not to break the tabs.
5. Disconnect tan water fill hose from rinse dispenser.
6. Disconnect two wire harnessess at control board.
7. DIsconnect drain hose from pump base. (might want to put a pan underneath to catch water)
8. Depress tabs on hose/harness coupler at bottom rear of drawer and dis-engage the coupler.
9. Lift drawer off slides.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
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