Dead receiver/amp.No sound no dial lights. Voltage ok at wall outlet, present at back of amp, but not at auxiliary built-in AC outlet on case of amp. All 4 fuses OK. On/Off switch seem OK. What is the likely fault.

Could be you have a faulty microcircuit breaker on the dead circuit though a consumer unit that contains fuses wouldn't usually have any microcircuit breakers.

I have known wired fuses to seem ok but have a near-invisible break in the wire. The only way to discover this is to remove the fuse and give the wire a gentle tug with snipe-nosed pliers or forceps.

I don't know about the newer receivers but this sounds like an arching OFF/ON power switch that was a problem on Pioneer receivers years ago. I would bypass the switch and see what happens.

1. Unplug unit from wall.
2. Jumper two wires going to off/on switch using alligator clip with insulated boots on clips.
3. Plug amplifier into disconnected circuit breaker/fuse protected AC strip.
4. Plug AC strip into wall outlet, turn AC strip switch ON and see if problem disappears.

The 20 amp would be enough for your AC as the initial current drain will be only when the motor starts ups and will reduce to about half on running.
So provided the AC has no fault of its own the present socket can be used and spcially if the socket quality -- must not heat while the AC is running.

This is caused by the Indoor fan being locked. Check fan motor is plugged in correctly, Electrically & Mechanically sound.
Check the fan motor turns freely, check the AC Voltage supplied to the fan motor, this will vary from 120 V ac at low speed to 170V AC at high speed. If no
Voltage is present the the PCB is faulty, if Voltage is present the fan motor will be Faulty

Hi CasKey, Th fault of no dial tone can be several reasons but I shall put on some for your assesment.
1. the cradel swithc can be faulty and it migght not contact when the handset is taken up so that the call is conneccted from the ringer-- hope you get the ringing.
2. If no ringing is present then the line fuse is faulty , the inward protection circuit is faulty.
3.Check the optocoupler that transfers signal to the mP section for processing inthe dialler IC.
4. the dialing circuit- the trigger transsitor can be short and sut off the dial tone , this happens if there is any surge inthe telphone voltage and is a common fault. you can tes the transistor with a zener diode in combination , this must switch when the cradle is on... the hand set up.
check these and respond or else the dialler IC /processor IC can be defective.

You must follow the circuitry and looking for lost the tension.

Your problem is the AC outlet, you must have an electrical problem. Call an electrician and ask him or her to run a voltage check or if you are able to, get yourself a multimeter turn the dial to AC voltage and place the red and black prongs into the outlet and see if you are getting a steady flow of voltage it should range anywhere from 110-115/120 volts AC.

Reset Procedure for Cordless Phones
Question:
What is the general reset procedure for cordless phones?

Answer:
1. Disconnect Battery from handset(s)
2. Disconnect Phone Cord from wall jack
3. Disconnect Phone cord from base unit
4. Disconnect AC adapter from wall outlet
5. Allow to sit for 30 min
6. Reconnect Phone Cord to base
7. Reconnect Phone cord to wall jack
8. Reconnect AC Adapter to wall outlet
9. Reconnect Battery to hanset until you click or feel the plug snap into place
10. Re-Register Handset by placing on main base in most instances.
<KEYWORDS="RESET, call,? can?t tone, dial no flashing, unavailable, range, of out working, not up, messed>

Look for power on the InterTel system, any kind of lights on the system is an indication you at least have power to the system. If you are plugged into a power strip and have no lights, remove the power cord from the strip and plug it directly into an AC outlet. Be sure to turn off the system before plugging it into a wall outlet, and then turn the system back on. Good Luck

i am having this trouble as well. The ics was my thought too, but I think it is in the modulation circuit somewhere. another article i read said to check this. "Look for the collector of TR-23, you should read about 4.5 V with a dead key. If you find that this voltage is not present, check on the opposite side of R-120 for 6.5V. Most likely this voltage will not be present; if this is the case, C18 has shorted and needs to be replaced. This is a 330uf, 10V electrolytic capacitor beside L31. To prevent "future" problems, replace with a 16V unit." As of yet, i havent gotten that far. note this is from the cobra 2000, but they are very much alike. you might cross check the resistor capacitor numbers though. btw, isnt the mb3756 the pll ic?