This toilet is great. We have had it installed for a little over a year and now we find that it has started leaking between the tank and the base. The model number is BK37959. We need to know how to get the leak stopped.

call a local plumber

Hello David McInnis,

There are Three basic opportunities for leaks from the classic TOILET TANK DESIGN (separate BASE & top-tank)... around the FLAPPER VALVE alone... Typically the flapper valve & two hold-down screws. These CANNOT be repaired without removing the entire tank. GREAT CARE should be used to not FRACTURE
the mated surfaces by OVER-TIGHTENING.

This is a great time to FRESHEN UP all the
Perishable gaskets & seals... and while I NEVER advocate using any ABRASIVES on gloss finishes... Pumas stone seems to be the FINAL TOUCH in a total renewal
(to REMOVE the built up (very unsightly
TOILET BOWL RING...

Amazon com toilet bowl pumice stone

ADDITIONAL PARTS:
- Water fitting to FILL VALVE (compression fitting).
- FILL VALVE through tank (gaskets)
- Flapper Valve base, gaskets & bowl interface ring

TO Make sure all the surfaces are clean an firmly
positioned and it is not LEAKING anywhere... place
clean dry paper on the floor behind the bowl
(under the tank).

EACH/EVERY drop will leave a mark...
Do NOT over-tighten any fittings!!!

If the WALL VALVE is less than NIMBLE... also a great opportunity to UPGRADE TO A QUARTER TURN
BALL VALVE... A little shopping will find you EXACT VALVE CONFIGURATION...

Hope this helps.

LASCO 04 3809 Toilet Tank To Bowl Bolt Kit Brass Bolts with Washers Hex...

Fluidmaster 6106 2 3 4 Inch Tank to Bowl with Three Bolts and Gasket...

BrassCraft G2CR19X C1 1 2 in NOM Comp Inlet 3 8 in OD Compression Outlet...

Kohler 1068031 Fill Valve Flush Valves Amazon com

Fixing a leaky toilet is actually rather simple, requiring few tools and just a little time and effort. In looking at Caroma toilets on Google, they appear to be just a standard type of unit, and should present few if any problems for yourself or any handyman of modest skill.

If it is leaking around the base of the toilet - where the toilet sits on the floor, the repair item is a simple wax seal. Here is a tutorial to effect this repair: Replace Toilet Wax Ring. The wax ring is very inexpensive, usually $5 to $10 USD.

If the water is leaking from between the tank (cistern) and the toilet bowl, the job is even easier, as it does not require lifting and moving the entire toilet. A good tutorial for that repair is here: How to Replace Tank to Bowl Gasket . The gaskets, new nuts, bolts and rubber seals come in a kit and also cost only $5 to $10 USD.

I am sorry to hear your Plumber insisted you buy an entire new toilet, but do remember he is in the business of making money!

There is a rubber seal at the bottom of the flush valve that covers the openning at the bottom of the tank. If this rubber seal has perished slightly then it will leak water into the toilet bowl. This rubber seal need to be replaced to form a proper seal to prevent water leak.

no --it means use the pre-drilled holes at the base of the pan/bowl to secure the pan/bowl to the floor

I'm contractor for the last 17 years and this is the first time I have problems with the toilet tank installation , I bought four toilets, three of them had a leaking tank I thought that the place that had bolt did not have enough pressure and I put more pressure every five minutes but the toilets kept on leaking, I took the bolts out and I put plumbing putty in the top and the bottom and installed it again but it kept on leaking then i removed the putty and i put liquid teflon on the bolts and finally the leaking stoped. Edit your post: To insert a product link use the format: [[ASIN:ASIN product-title]] (What's this?) I'm contractor for the last 17 years and this is the first time I have problems with the toilet tank installation , I bought four toilets, three of them had a leaking tank I thought that the place that had bolt did not have enough pressure and I put more pressure every five minutes but the toilets kept on leaking, I took the bolts out and I put plumbing putty in the top and the bottom and installed it again but it kept on leaking then i removed the putty and i put liquid teflon on the bolts and finally the leaking stoped. Guidelines

leaks where?

I'm assuming based on your post that the leak is outside the toilet near the inlet to the fill valve. Based on 10 years in the business, there shouldn't be holes in or near this place. Have you tried replacing the fill valve? If you go to the hardware store and look at a new fill valve, you will find that there aren't any holes. They aren't expensive, so I would just replace it.

It's not terribly complicated, assuming that by "install a new toilet" you mean where there was alredy an existing toilet. First, remove the old toilet. Shut off the water supply valve, and flush the toilet. Then use a spone to get rid of the water that remains in the tank. Remove the nuts on the two bolts at the base of the toilet where the toilet meets the floor. These are usually hidden under two plastic caps. Now gently rock the toilet until it comes away from the floor. Get help to carry it out. Clean up the old wax that's around the flange where the pipe disappears into the floor. Don't be a wuss, it's only wax. Now you'll need the new toilet, a new supply line, new mounting bolts (don't reuse the old ones) and a two wax rings. Yes, I said two wax rings. You'll see why in a minute. Assemble the new toilet according to the instructions provided. Now here's a warning: Do NOT overtighten the bolts the hod the tank to the bowl. You're dealing with ceramics here, don't break them. Now, put the new hold-down bolts in place on the flange. Read the insturctions that came with the toilet, but you have to do this NOW. Now you'll need a helper. With the toilet upsided down, unwrap a wax ring. Make sure it's room temprature or it won't seal. Press the wax ring around the outlet flange on the base of the toilet. Now you and your helper carefully turn the toilet over without crushing the wax ring. Lift the toilet and slowly lowe it so the wax ring is centered over the "flange" which is where the sewer pipe goes into the foor. Then press the toilet firmly in place. Now if you're like most people, you screwed up here and crushed the wax ring without being centered on the flange. That's why I told you to buy two. Now you know what not to do, scrape off the first one and start again. When you've got the toilet sealed on the flange, connect and tighten the nuts on the bolts. Now you may have to use a hacksaw to cut off the remaining ends of the bolts so you can get the neat little plastic caps to fit. Now connect the water supply line. Now's where you start praying. Turn on the water and let the tank fill. Check the supply line for leaks. Fix as necessary. Now flush. Is water running out from around the base of the toilet? No? Good, you got a good seal. Yes? Very bad. Time to go back to the home center for yet another wax ring. Repeat the sealing process and get a good seal this time.