The right hand arm has come away from the rotating joint which means the total head will not stay up. It's the left hand harm that is connected to the water supply so it continues to work. I don't know how to reconnect the right hand arm back into the rotating mechanism. Can you help

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

I love my Schwinn Evo Comp AirDyne. After 2 years it suddenly developed a bad squeak and about .5" of increased play in the pedals (ie the pedal could rotate back and forth about .5" before turning the fan). Both these symptoms were caused by a broken spring in the chain tensioner. (Schwinn pn 13000371. See part 80 in blowup 5 of http://www.fitnessrepairparts.com/diagram/114 ~$9).
To replace this:

1. disconnect the right hand (as you sit on it) connecting arm (ie the piece that connects the pedal to the big handle) from the lever arm (ie the big handle you pull back and forth) by removing the connecting bolt with an Allen head wrench and an adjustable wrench. Note the order of the three internal washers as you remove the connecting bolt. Rotate the connecting arm towards the back of the bike to get it out of the way.
2. remove the four phillips head bolts that hold down large right hand plastic cover. With the connecting arm out of the way this cover can be pulled far enough out to gain access to the chain tensioner.
3. remove the broken spring and replace it. I fashioned a similar spring with less tension which seems to work as a kluge. The original spring broke at the outermost loop, so I might have been able to reuse it by just bending down another loop.
4. could lube the chain while you are in there, but you can also lube it anytime from the other side
5. put it all back together

cv joints are covered with a plastic/rubber boot to keep the road dirt out and lubricating grease in''the inner works of a cv joint are an alloy metal with honeycomb chambers for the joint bearings to fit inside of..do this.. take your left hand and make a fist..then fit the fist into the spread open fingers of the right hand ..rotate both hands together back and forth..your ncv axle turns in much the same way..when dirt gets into the joint due to cover failure..this joint wears out because it has engine torque(twisting) pressure on it while moving..along with grit and dirt grinding away at both the metal and the bearings inside causing lots of slop in the joint..now if the engine torque becomes too strong for the worn out chambers in the joint, they will break..remember they arent steel,,they are alloy..thus rendering the joint unuseable ( slip your left hand inside the right between the fingers to grt the idea.. thats what the cv joint on your car is doing...so replacement is necessary..its not an easy job since most cars front suspension is opened up during this proceedure,,,car is ten years old do you feel that its worth the money? call for rates first...good luck and repost findings thnx

Step 1:

please follow the instruction and fix it. God bless you.
Pedal Arms

1

Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.

2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.

3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.

Step 2:

LUBRICATION

1

Prepare to oil by filling a grease gun with lithium grease. Check your owner's manual for the exact type of grease for your unit.

2

Locate where it is you need to lubricate. Focus on the bearings, free-moving joints and attachments with moving parts such as handle bars, wheels, pedals arms and guide rails. Go to each location one by one when greasing.

3

Unfasten the bolts or screws that hold the joint or attachment that you wish to lubricate.

4

Grease each bolt and screw liberally. Tighten each bolt and screw back into its place when finished.

5

Wipe away any excess greas

Step 3:

Drive Belt

1

Remove the screws or bolts securing the ends of the pedals to the crank axles. Slide the ends of the pedals off the axles. Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right disc shields to the base unit. Pull or pry the disc shields off the base unit and set them aside.

2

Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right side shields to the base unit. Detach the side shields and set them aside. Examine the interior of the base unit and locate the drive belt.

3

Pull the drive belt free of the crank pulley, flywheel and any other pulleys. Discard the old drive belt and install a new belt in its place. Turn the crank axles by hand to confirm that the belt will turn smoothly when the device is in use

sorry but impala ball joints are not pressed in they are secured by rivets

hold the head & undo the unit in a clockwise direction because arbor or adapter is left hand thread

should be so,e means of stopping rotation of shaft so can undo head - may be place a small rod in the hole to stop adapter plate rotation -

remember normal thread left y loosey - righty tighty

but with left hand thread opposite applies
left - tigthen , loose - right

cheers

just replace your shower arm that is what the shower head is connected to make sure you use teflon tape around the threads on each end of the shower arm that should do the trick

Check the CV joint that the axle connects to. They make a clicking sound when turning a corner if badly worn. Both CV joints are commonly replaced when one of them goes out.

Very common BMW problem. The front lateral arms that support the front to rear motion of the wheel. BMW calls it the upper, lower support arm. Two arms connect there. one left to right (think typical lower control arm, and this arm) It has a ball joint that connects to the lower most part of the strut and extends rearward to the rear crossmember and has a large bushing pressed into the arm. You can replace just the bushing if the ball joint end is ok. Bushings are about $45 each and you will need a press.