I have a standard light switch that controlled an overhead light. Now I want there to be a switch for the overhead light AND an electrical outlet that is always on in one unit. Bought a Leviton T5225 which I think is the right weapon for the job. Inside the electrical box there is one black wire, one white wire, one ground -- that's it. Can this be done, or do I need a different switch for the job?

IF this is on a house etc, is there an outlet outside that could be controlled by the switch

The most common way the houses are wired is through the ceiling. The power comes into the box that the light is on. The power is wired to the light on one wire and the other goes down to the switch. The return comes back from the switch and connects to the light. What the did was connect the wire that feeds the outlets to the switch.

if its a radial cicuit the outlet is in a chain and the ones that are not working follow on from this so recheck the cables are remade off back to fresh metal replaced back into the correct places and are nice and tight,dont forget to safely isolate before you do the work

Connect the white on the switch to the white in your house, one black to the hot coming in, and the other black to the hot wire to the overhead fixture.

It sounds like you have power in your light, power is fed down on the white wire and the black wire is switched and connects back up to the light. You do not have a "neutral" in the box, so you cannot run an outlet with the wire that is currently available.

Let's start at the beginning please. You have a source cable fed into an overhead outlet box or to a switch outlet box on the wall? This is critical because it tells me what kind of arrangement you actually have.

If the source is in the ceiling, then you are using switch loops and the wiring gets tricky because you have to "re-task" the Neutral (White) wire (Assuming you are here in the U.S.A.) that goes to the switch because it will become the feed to the wall switch.

However, is the feed is at the switch, then it is much simpler. Please let me know what you have in the form of wiring.

Also as an FYI, if you are using special switches, you may have to have equipment grounding conductor present at the switch. The electrical code no longer allows the use of a Neutral (White) conductor as a grounding conductor.

The sender (remote) switches must match the switches in the lift motor case

The 'comm' on that switch is very misleading. Generally that would refer to the white (or neutral wires), however in this case it doesn't. All a switch does is interrupt power. One black wire is power into the switch, and the other black wire is power out of the switch. So, all you have to do is leave the whites connected to each other, and connect one black wire to one black lead on the switch, and connect the other black wire to the other lead on the switch. Everything should work perfectly after this.

You should not have to switch between battery and generator, unless you are trying to use an inverter as well. Batteries are 12vdc, typically run lighting, water pump, furnace, fridge controls. Generator powers ac, microwave, television, and anything else that plugs into a 120vac wall outlet. Inverter may also run select loads, and possibly dedicated wall outlets, but not AC, fridge, or microwave (usually).

Most RVs / Motorhomes now have automatic transfer switches that will switch between the generator, shorepower, and possibly an inverter. Your coach is made during an era of transition from manual transfer switch (in form of heavy duty electrical outlet near shore power cord) and the automatic transfer switch.

There is no specific place where a transfer switch or generator receptacle are mounted on an RV. There are no rules or regulations tha cover this as far as I know. Your RV may also have an EMS (Energy Management System) that will control the transfer switch as well. EMS panels are typically located above the refrigerator or above driver / passenger seats in overhead compartment.

Fuse #8, #18 and #22.

Below is a listing of which fuse corresponds with which circuit:

1 - 10 Amp - Transmission Controller, Gauges, Autostick
2 - 10 Amp - Right High Beam Headlight
3 - 10 Amp - Left High Beam Headlight
4 - 10 Amp - Radio, CD Player
5 - 10 Amp - Washer Motor
6 - 15 Amp - Power Outlet
7 - 20 Amp - Tail, License, Parking, Illumination Lights, Instrument Cluster
8 - 10 Amp - Airbag
9 - 10 Amp - Turn Signal Lights, Turn Signal/Hazard Indicator
10 - 15 Amp - Right Low Beam
11 - 20 Amp - High Beam Relay, High Beam Indicator, High Beam Switch
12 - 15 Amp - Left Low Beam Headlight
13 - 10 Amp - Fuel Pump Relay, Power Train Control Module
14 - 10 Amp - Cluster, Day/Night Mirror,Sunroof, Overhead Console, Garage Door Opener, Body Control Module
15 - 10 Amp - Daytime Running Light Module (Canada)
16 - 20 Amp - Fog Light Indicator
17 - 10 Amp - ABS Control, Back Up Lights, Daytime Running Lights, A/C Heater Control Cavity Fuse Circuits
18 - 20 Amp - Power Amplifier, Horn
19 - 15 Amp - Overhead Console, Garage Door Opener, Trunk, Overhead, Rear Reading, and Visor Vanity Lights, Trunk Release Solenoid, Power Mirrors, Power Door Locks, Body Control Module, Aspirator Motor
20 - 20 Amp - Brake Lights
21 - 10 Amp - Leak Detection Pump, Low Rad Relay, High Rad Relay, A/C Clutch Relay
22 - 10 Amp - Airbag
23 - 30 Amp - Blower Motor, ATC Power Module
24 - 20 Amp - Power Window Motors
25 - 20 Amp - Power Door Lock Motors, Power Seats