Main system control memory IC fault. This is a very small IC; have 8 solder terminals, and can be located very near to the main system control-chroma IC. Check and replace it. Be sure to replace it with the same number printed on it; in all respect. Otherwise, it won't go. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ Before replacing it, try a reset to this set, and then check.
There are two methods to reset TVs. The first is simple to do; a Hard Reset. The other is somewhat skilled; is a Factory Reset (System Reset). To make it a hard reset, just unplug the TV from AC mains wall socket, and re-plug it back after 15 minutes or so. If you do this by overnight is better. This procedure will make it a hard reset. If you want to make it a system reset [Factory Reset]; you have to enter its service mode option, and select the factory reset option. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here.
SOURCE: Display Standby/on light blinks red - screen will
Hi there, the green light upon startup means the circuit boards are powering up. At some point ( a bad capacitor in your case) the system "runs" into a bad component ( the capacitor) and this faulty component will shut the system down ( for safety reasons the tv has a built in device that trips the circuit when a problem is encountered), this in turn shuts down "the power-up" cycle and the unit shuts off and displays the red light again....You will need to call a professional to have the circuitboards checked out. You can, if you wish, open the unit and use my guide to help you locate and diagnose the most common problem with tv's having the symptoms you've mentioned....The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight tv mechanic lol! If this helped you any (or not) then please rate...Also I am very interested in your progress with this issue.
SOURCE: Pioneer PDP 5030 power supply problem
Ok here's how I manage solve the problem... Having the back removed opens the contacts on the interlock switch so I guess if it powers up in this state it senses the high voltages are exposed and for safety shuts down... After this the unit will not power up and the power led flashes red continuously as described before…
After some thought it occurred to me that there may not be a problem at all, just be a simple reset function for this condition… I managed to find an easy solution to this… Just call up the hidden engineer’s service menu – On 3rd generation Pioneer Plasmas it’s as follows > Power down the screen > Hold down the “Input” and “Vol +” buttons on the front > Power the screen up and the Service menu comes up on the screen > You don't need to change anything just simply power off and from then the screen should operate as normal…It did for me so I’m well happy now!!
I hope this information will help someone else one day – Good Luck!!…Rob UK…
SOURCE: BLUE POWER LIGHT
Un plug the power to the Plasma Screen and also to the Media Receiver for ten minutes. Disconnect the off the air antennas both A and B. After ten minutes plug in the plasma screen then the media receiver and turn on wi the remote control. You should now be back in operation. I was.
Also It may not be a bad digital tuner. The TV Guide feature is active even when the zip code is set to all 0s so if you have an over the air antenna attached the TV will look for the TV Guide info and if it can not find it because of a weak signal or the chanel it is tuned to does not carry that information the TV thinks that tuner does not work which triggers the 12 flashes. Also on power up the gray box with the waring message "Plasma Display Starting Up, Please Wait" appears and the screen is blank.
SOURCE: my 60''pioneer plasma blinks 12 times after i turn it on
looks like 12 blue blinks is a communication with the Digital tuner error. pioneer had a software upgrade/fix for this in some cases, others might need a new digital tuner pcb. I would unplug all power, wait 5 min, plug in (wait1 min) and try it again. If it is software, it should hopefully work. Make sure you pull your cable card if you have one. If it still won't turn on, you probably need the digital tuner board = $200-500 repair. Pioneer is usually very helpful, I'm really surprised they didn't help at all.. They'll want model #, serial # and date of purchase.
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