The crackling noises is just from air in the water and should be of no concern. If you are having a problem of heating up the water with the unit it is most likely do to water moving too fast through the lines. Ideally, there should be a shutoff valve installed on both sides of your heater (makes for easy removal if it needs to be serviced). But if you turn off the valve about 1/4 to 1/2 way on the one on the "in" side of the heater (where the cold water enters) then you will slow down the water going through the heater and this will give the water a better chance to heat up. This should alleviate the heating problems you are having. If you do have a shutoff valve on the cold (in) side of the heater, shut it off about 1/4 to 1/2 way and then go to your shower and turn the hot on all the way (no cold). Wait for the water to warm and test the water by hand to see if it is the temp you want. If it is still not warm enough, turn the hot on the shower DOWN just a little. This will actually make the water hotter. I know this doesnt seem right but it will. On the other hand, if the water coming out with the hot water fully turned on is too hot, then just turn on a little cold water at a time until the water is the temp you want. Remember, always give the water plenty of time to get from the heater to the shower before you decideof its the right temp. Ideally, you should be able to turn the hot water on all the way and get the hot temp that you want and if you want to cool it down, just turn the cold on just a little bit until it is where you want. I'm fairly sure the problems you are having are due to the water going too fast through the unit and once you adjust that and understand better how these tankless heaters work, you wont have any more trouble. They are difficult to get used to after using conventional water heaters and the manufacturers arent very good about giving you these hints so they will work properly. You will need a professional to uninstall and hopefully this will work and you want have to. But if you do, it requires shutting off the water to the unit. Shutting off the pwer to the unit. Unattaching the water lines to the unit and then unattaching the electric lines from the junction box or wherever they are attached. The heater then can be removed from the wall by unscrewing the screws from the hangers which hold it to the wall.
This model is known to have problems with its
Thermal Cutout this regulates the maximum water temp and can cause the unit to
overheat when it does not shut off the heat source. In some residences low water flow and or a
obstruction (common if you have well water) in the filtration and water
treatment system can cause the same problem.
Basically the unit can have overheating problems and the heat exchange
coils are be prone the effects of hard water (if that applies to your water
supply) and can lead to future service of descaling the units coil/coils (can
be expensive). Buying any used unit with many mechanical parts and other components always have the potential to have problems new so i would not recommend a used unit of this type.
Also, This
unit is limited due to the fact that the unit require incoming water to be
cold and you cant use any sources of pre heated water (many people are starting
to utilize alternative energies such as solar water heaters, wood boilers, and
other relatively free or low cost). For example, using recovered heat from a
boiler or indirect hot water tank or other to reduce the energy (cost) by
raising the systems initial water temperature.
Are you heating a concrete floor with radiant
heating? if so it would be far more cost effective to use either a loop off
your existing system (a new zone) or you could add a oil fired or LP (gas)
fired water heater and utilize the efficiency of a separate system and the fact that
a hot water heater stores and super insulates the water it heats.
if you have any questions please feel free to let
me know
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