I am not sure of the exact configuration of the air damper and spring. How are they supposed to be installed?

Keep in mind you have the same terminals on the damper. 1-4-6. be sure both board and dampers are wired the same for spring open/power closed. I cant remember if that 311 sends power with a call or not( if power is being sent when light is on), but once you have double checked the damper wiring either verify with a meter that power is being sent or verify air flow. if it is then backwards simply reverse wires on board. I suspect it sends power when light is on, that is why zone 3 is lit. (there is no call for cooling on 3, therefore it is shutting the damper) YES, the damper that is not really there. Let me know, hope this helps. The damper that is trying to cool should NOT be getting any power, wire accordingly.

Be sure all zones are calling for cooling. Press the purge override and verify air flow on all zones. If one is still not working verify the board is sending voltage to that damper. A meter is a huge help but if all lights are on chances are the damper is stuck. You should be able to free it up but it will just happen again. Either replace damper motor, replace damper or if you can figure out if it is a "spring open" damper, get it open and unhook the wire to that zone. This will keep it open at all times because it can not "power close". Provided that zone CAN stay open all the time. Keep me posted!!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Parts for Jenn Air JSD2488DEB Shelves Accessories Parts


This might help. However you could try putting the damper door in without the spring and moving it through its open and closing to see what is near the door the spring could hook to. Look for small holes or tabs.

Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

Zoned forced air systems that use multiple thermostats that can start a single heating and cooling unit from each stat and condition just that space that called it, are conditioned by the auto damper you are referring to. These dampers are normally spring closed and driven open using a small 24 volt motor (Called an Actuator or Operator) connected to the stat that operates the damper motor with a relay. Disconnect the damper crank arm and linkage between the damper and its motor and see if the damper rotates closed. See if the damper will move freely. Power and remove power from the motor to see if it works. Doing these things will probably find the problem. Good Luck. Roger

1- remove the strut and spring assembly
2- compress the spring with special tool
3-remuve the damper shaft nut and change the new strut
4- install the damper and the nut remove the tool
disassembling a strut is dangerous be careful

Coiled springs do not aid with damping which seems to be your problem. The springs are there so that you dont feel every bump in the roead. It makes your ride more comfortable. The wheel is now bouncing up and down because there is nothing to prevent it from doing that(done by a shock absorber/damper) This damper is contained within the fork(Lower part together with the springs). One on each side. Some bikes use air, larger bikes use oil or a combination of oil and compressed air. Not sure about yours.
Therefore it seems to me that the seals have failed. It could also be that the unit was assembled incorrectly. An auto spares shop should be able to supply you with the correct seals if you take the old ones as a sample. Take note of the position and also the direction a seal was installed when removing.

They are hooked from the bottom frame to the carriage that holds the tub. Not sure of the model you have but most Whirlpool (They make kenmore, roper, magic chef and others) There is a ring around the top of the outer tub that is filled with water from the factory. Make sure it still has water inside. It acts as a damper helping to balanced the tub also.

Go down to where the ducts come out of the furnace. Identify the line you want to install damper. Open duct and drill two holes directly across from each other. Take your damper and undo the nut and washer on the one end and install in the holes you just drilled. Reattach the washer and nut and now re connect the duct seal it with duct tape and you will be good to go.

If you have 6 inch ducts get a 6 inch damper. But be sure to do everything at the beginning on the duct as to divert air to other ducts.

I have to tell you that changing your air flow could develop problems if you do very many ducts. So be very aware of what you doing. All systems are put in with air flow in mind.

The air that cools the refrigerator section comes from the freezer. The refrigerator temperature control controls the run cycle. You may have to replace or have the thermostat replaced. The temperature control has failed.