AC,DC, gas RV fridge Dometic

There is a plug in the cooling unit. Take the fridge out and lay it on its side for 1/2 hr, then on the other side for the same amount of time. Do this with the fridge inverted too. What this tumbling does is dislodge any particles which will restrict the flow of the fluids in the pipes. This is an old trick RV technicians trick to try to save the cost of replacing the the cooling unit.

RV Refrigerator Stop Working? - RVing - Fun Times Guide

rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2009/09/rv_refrigerator.php

If your refrigerator works on gas, but won't work on electric, you may have a burned out.... Cirtis, We are camping in Montana and our dometic refrigerator decided to stop ......Won't know until you can confirm you have proper voltage to the fridge. ... If you have confirmed both 12 vdc and 110 vac power at the fridge, I would ...

[PDF]Dometic Manual Refrigerator Diagnostic Service Manual

www.nationalserroscotty.org/resources/dometic-service-manual.pdf

Dometic Manual Refrigerators. ... 110 Volt Plug. 2. .... This is Dometic's Manual Refrigeration Diagnosis and Troubleshooting program. In this ... we will discuss the way an absorption cooling unit operates, and the ... gas, 120 volts AC and 12 volts DC .....In this condition we are still boiling ammonia but have no hydrogen for.

Dometic Fridge problems - RV mechanic

G'day I have a Dometic RM4605,184LT FRIDGE, AES what setting on gas would you have the fridge set. Settings are between 1 to 5 for max cold in the fridge I did run the fridge for two hours on number 4 setting but it was still 10 degrees in the fridge and -0 in the freezer.
Thanks

Have you given it 24-48 hrs to cool? Coils at rear will start to get hot at top, and slowly work there way down.
Yes, 24-48 hrs upside down, then same right side up before turning on, has been known to buy you some time.

The freezer get the first crack at cooling and combination units have a fan and adjustable vents to steal some of the cooling capacity for the refrigerator. The vent are normally located in the back of the refrigerator compartment and with these, you can balance the cooling capacity between freezer and fridge. I recommend you swap your thermometer back and forth until you get the balance you want; typically the freezer should be at 5 degrees F or below and the fridge at 35-40 degrees F. Adjusting the control for temperature and having the vents set to supply the cold air you want in each compartment should give you the range you want in each.

You need to make sure that you follow the manufacturer's recommendations for using the unit with each specific power source. It's important that you have the all switches in the proper position, based on what power source you're using.

Here's the manual for your model, save a copy and print it out and take some time to review the section #3 Operating Instructions on page 6.

http://www.alcovr.com/DATA/MANUEL/DometicRefrigeratorModelsRM2191&RM2193.pdf

Hope you find this helpful and will resolve your issue.

my 3-way fridge won't work on anything, coils in back get hot but nothing to worry about, hoot.

On a fridge freezer only the fridge temperature is monitored. In a cold location the fridge might not even need cooling and the freezer would get too warm but the thing won't care.

If the fridge sensor sees it as too warm then it will keep the motor running and the first thing to get really cold is the freezer.

Remember the freezing part is not temperature controlled ion a fridgefreezer.

Your possibly getting a DC voltage interuption Your convertor can be over heating causing a temporary drop. You can chech this by turning everthing dc supplied on and watch to see if the check light comes on then. Primary is electric and if no electric then it is suppose to look for gas.

Tuna, it sounds like your thermistor is bad. Once the fridge reaches 40 degrees, the thermistor is supposed to tell the board to stop cooling and maintain. You can test it with an Ohmmeter.