Embroidery mode I can't get the embroidery mode to come up. Get lower presser foot note.

First turn off the XL-1000 and remove the auxilliary bed. Attach the embroidery bed and push the lever on the front of the bed to the right. Switch to the embroidery presser foot. Thread the machine with the appropriate embroidery thread and bobbin thread. Set up the embroidery hoop. Turn on the machine. Lift the presser foot to the highest position. Slide the embroidery hoop under the presser foot such that the key on the hoop goes into the slot on the embroidery bed.

The directions for setting up the hoop are given in the manual for the Quantum XL-1000. Singer has most of their manuals here: https://www.singer.com/support .The current link to the manual is https://www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/1259_xl-100_0.pdf . The section on embroidery starts on page 54 (page 56 of the PDF). Page 57 has the information on securing the hoop to the embroidery frame.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Touch the presser foot up button once to raise the presser foot. Touch again and the presser foot will raise to extra lift position, and the feed teeth will be automatically
lowered to make it easier to get heavy fabric under the presser foot.In embroidery mode, the extra lift makes it easier to insert or remove the hoop.
Here is a link to your manual: http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/SiteMedia/Products/Machines/DESIGNER-EPIC/Manual/Designer_epic_manual_EN.pdf

Would a manual help?

Brother PC 8500 User Manual

Are the feed dogs in the raised position? Is it a regular stitch presser foot or a darning foot? A darning foot is shorter in height so the fabric can be maneuvered without use of the feed dogs. Just some ideas. Could also be an embroidery setting that has not been deactivated.

...

Most any sewing machine (zig-zag capable is probably better but a straight stitch can be used) should be able to do manual embroidery/applique. The lady in the video states she's using an embroidery foot, but in reality a darning or free motion presser foot may be better. Most embroidery presser feet actually press down on the fabric making it difficult to move the fabric manually. A darning or free motion presser foot is actually shorter and allows space for the fabric to move freely.

Don't forget to lower the feed dogs!!!

Lots of web sites and videos on the internet!

How To Do Free Hand Machine Embroidery

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vAmmmNbL88


..

When i first got my machine, i had to program it for 'continuation stitching', all it wanted to do was one letter and stop. Then I'd have to start the whole process over for the next letter. I just re-booted the machine, and it seemed to fix it's self.

Hi, I hope this helps. If it doesn't post again.
"Check:
Place the sewing foot under the sewing foot
holder so that the pins of the foot snap into
the sewing foot holder when the presser foot
lifter is lowered.
Please check that the sewing foot is properly
engaged by raising the presser foot lifter."

Question: Are you using top feed? If so:
"For all sewing jobs with the top feed, only use sewing feet with Cutout at the back (OA, 1A, 3, 4)."

Embroidery foot Part No.: 98-694-840-00 will not work with top feed.

Also, except for eyelets, the darning foot can be used for embroidery.

I'm not sure what you're trying to do :) darn or embroider :); I'm not sure what mode you're working in either; embroidery mode?

Darning with straight stitch
Program 00
Fit darning foot No. 6.
Set the needle at its highest position by turning
the handwheel, and push the pin of the darning
foot fully into the hole of the sewing foot holder
slightly pressing the darning foot between thumb
and forefinger. When doing this, the guide fork
should place itself around the presser bar and the
wire must be behind the fixing screw.
Darning position:
Lower the presser foot lifter pressing it lightly to
the rear until it snaps into the darning position.
Important Only in this position you have the
optimum thread tension for darning.
• Place the darning work in the darning hoop.
• Lower the feed dog.
• Pull up the bobbin thread and hold the threads
when you start sewing.
• Now guide the fabric back and forth evenly;
the length of the darn will be set by the size of
the hole. As you are determining the stitch
length yourself while sewing with the feed dog
lowered, you should sew at an even speed.
When you have reached the width of the dam
aged area, darn over the damaged area again
from right to left.
This guarantees a durable darn.
TIP: The faster you sew, the easier and more even
the darning will be. It you are moving the workpiece
too slowly, small knots will appear on the
wrong side of the fabric."

Whether working with terry-cloth or woven fabric,
with the help of the darning foot and the pro
gram 02 you can embroider initials of your own
design

Drop the feed dog and insert the darning foot.
Put the machine into the darning position.

Spread the fabric in an embroidery hoop and
embroider in accordance with program 02.

Lower feed dog
If the feed dog is not lowered for embroidering, the
machine does not embroider when the foot pedal
is pressed and the message appea rs:
Lower feed dog
ok?
The feed dog must be lowered in embroidery
mode.

you may need to check the switch in the foot presser

there are three positions the presser foot can sit in. Up and down are the same on any machine. The 7570 has an in-between position for embroidery. Lift the presser foot and the lower it slowly while pushing gently. It should stop about half way down. The embroidery foot pushes the foot into the down position with each stitch allowing the fabric to move easily to the next stitch.

That would depend on if you have a regular home sewing machine or a embroidery machine. I'm going to assume that you have a regular machine.

There is something called free hand embroidery. you lower or disengage the feed dogs, take off the presser foot. Some use a darning foot and others just leave the foot off. Hopefully your design is already marked on the fabric. Place fabric in a regular hand embroidery so they fabric is right side up but the hoop makes it sit down in the rings. (make sense) Fit your hoop on the bed of the sewing machine, under the presser foot/presser foot bar. Lower the presser foot lever. (important for tension) and select stitch style and length. you may need to adjust tensions too.

Begin stitching, take a couple stitches... then reverse a couple... then snip the loose ends. Continue to stitch, guiding the hoop so that the needle follows the design. Start slowly and as you discover how your hand movements effect the length of the stitches... you can speed up and slow down as you need to create your design.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylMy6QdsZr4

1. What do I need to get started at free machine embroidery?
   • A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your zigzag stitches too.
     
   • An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
     
   • An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood, has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring, separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better tension on the fabric.
     
   • Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery, as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water, leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very nice. It's expensive though.
     
   • Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the piece from the fabric.
     
   • Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery thread available.
     
   • Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought? Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a problem with this to date.
     
2. How do I prepare the machine and fabric for free machine embroidery? Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
   
3. How do I lock the thread at the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to unravel? Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.