Heat not consistent

what is it for,a dryer an oven?if it's for an oven even though it glows doesn't mean it's good,it works with amps,it has to get 3.5 amps to open the gas valve for a flat igniter 2.5 for a round igniter,if it doesn't ignite within 40 to 60 seconds the igniter is bad or no gas but usually it will be the igniter if it's a dryer and the igniter glows but no flame you could have bad gas coils or a bad gas valve,usually if the coils are bad you'll have heat for like the first 15 minutes then when the coils heat up they fail the igniter will glow but no flame,also check the sensor,if the igniter glows longer than normal the sensor could be the problem but the only way to tell is by checking the sensor and coils with a meter for ohms,make sure the gas is on,if you had work done in the house someone could have shut down the gas,seen it before but you have to send the brand name and model number off of the machine you need fixed.good luck

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

The glow-bar system sends electric current through a heating type of element until it glows hot enough to light the gas (this is used on most older style dryers) An I.R. sensor (infrared sensor) determines when the glow-bar is hot enough to light the gas, it then sends a signal to the gas valve to turn on.

To test this system, open the front cover where the burners are; start the dryer in the heat cycle; you should see the glow bar getting red hot (the glow-bar sits inside the burner box just above the burner tubes - there are two types; a round one that has spirals, and a flat one that looks like half of a coat hanger except smaller. If you have a hard time identifying them go look at the pictures of them in the store section) If nothing glows you will need to take a voltage reading across the glow-bar leads (there are 2) as you first start the dryer. No voltage means it's something else. Voltage means replace the bar (a replacement glow-bar should be kept in stock).

If the glow-bar lights and does not go off then the I.R. Sensor has failed. (I usually replace the glow-bar along with the I.R. sensor because one will take the other out, and it's just good maint. procedure to do as such.)

If the glow-bar lights for about a minute then goes off and you do not hear a click sound come from the gas valve (this click sound is the coil in the gas valve opening) then it's probably a bad gas valve coil (see below). If the glow-bar lights, then turns off (in about a minute) and the gas valve clicks on (and you can hear and/or smell that the gas valve is open) the burner tube holes are plugged and/or the glow-bar needs to be adjusted closer to the burner tube. To clean the burner tubes, you can either shoot compressed air into them, or remove them and run water through them. If it's an older dryer it's best to remove them and run water through them so as to get all the compressed lint completely out.
If you have a spark ignition (looks like a spark plug wire from a car...in fact it is.) The way that this system works is, instead of lighting the gas with a glow-bar, it lights it with a spark. To test the system, open the burner cover, turn the dryer on in heat mode, you should hear the gas valve click, and the spark igniter sparking, (in fact, it may even light the gas, but then goes right back off.) If this is the case then most likely the ignition cable is bad. Most people think that just because they can hear the spark, and see the gas light that the cable is OK, however, the ignition module sends a small amount of voltage the opposite direction through ground, through the fire, and through the high voltage ignition cable back to the ignition unit to let it know that the gas has lit. If the ignition cable has a even the slightest crack in the carbon core cable; that small amount of voltage cannot jump that crack like the higher voltage.... So replace the cable. (if it's a weekend and your faced with a downed dryer; either buy one from an auto parts store, or borrow one from someone's car...) The other thing that it may be is plugged burner tubes, if it looks like there is a lot of lint in the burner compartment you may want to try blowing out the burner tubes or removing them and rinsing them out with water.

Check circuit breaker. If it's a 220V machine be sure you have all legs of your power.

Check your neutral leads (I can't tell you how many times I've seen wire nuts come loose...) I've also had alot of power cords (especially 120V) go bad; check them.

Check control fuses, there's usually more than one. Sometimes they put them in the computer control board.

If there is a transformer in the main circuit (There may be two-one for the heat circuit, the other for the control circuit) be sure to make sure you have incoming and out going voltage according to the schematic voltage or it should say on the transformer.

Make sure door switch is adjusted properly or hasn't failed.

Check belt or chain.

Check the conduit going into the motor, sometimes older motors get hot and the mount fails causing them to rotate in their craddle and pulling out the conduit and wires. After repairing the wires you can run a large hose clamp around the motor so as to secure it. This will keep you going long enough until it's replaced.

If the dryer works only while you hold the start button on, it means the start circuit in the motor has failed (120V - 220V single phase system) I've seen people put tape over the button, however this should only be a temp. fix...replace the motor. For a three phase system, it's most likely the start relay is bad.
Be sure to check the main start contactor, these seem to fail quite frequently, they are usually located behind the dryer in the rear control panel.

The Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

glow bar igniter ... - thermal fuse ( not all models ) ... - coil on the gas valve ... - gas valve ... - thermostats ... - motor heat switch ... - timer ... - selector switch ... - sensor ... All these will cause this problem.

There is NO starter on a gas dryer burner assembly. The burner is controlled by gas valve coils and a glow bar igniter. Once the igniter reaches the appropriate current level, the gas valves open and you have ignition. The common problem is a weak igniter. You need to do a current measurement to make sure the igniter is within tolerance. If it is within specs, then I would agree with docjohn174 about replacing the coils. If its not within specs, you need to replace the igniter. Depending on the type of igniter you have, the current rating is as follows:

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

I still need an accurate model number in order to confirm WHICH type of igniter you have.

hI YES THE COILS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO CHANGE thANKS FOR THE QUESTION tHE APPLIANCS DOC

It sounds like your GLOW BAR gas igniter is bad. This is an electric powered heater coil that , when it glows red hot, ignites the gas burner. This part normally fails at least once during a dryers normal service life. If you are handy, you may be able to replace the part yourself. Otherwise, have a technician look at it. If you want to DIY, go to an appliance parts store . Remove and observe the GLOW BAR from your gas dryer. If one of the metal element appears to be burned open,replacement is necessary.. Show the part, along with your dryer maker, model, and serial number, to the store employee. This person can give you helpful info along with a new part. If the GLOW BAR is NOT burned out, seek out a technician.