1) bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box,
just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to
the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some
have 4 terminals, the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside
the thermostats which alter it's temperature characteristics. These will
usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals
for continuity.
2) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some
reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is
open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one
fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor
and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor
is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater,( which
needs 220), will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer
terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of
the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.
3) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety
reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning.
Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the
connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that
turn the heater on.
Hope this helped Tim
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