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sounds like a bad defrost terminator or timer wired wrong. won't make temp as the evap is not clear of ice/frost build up. check your wiring diagram for location and operation of terminator.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1095484/Samsung-Rf195abrs.html?page=94#manual
I checked this wiring diagram and could not see any sensor that would control the fans. there are many units that will keep the fans off till a certain temp is reached so as to not circulate warm air after a defrost. you may have a bad sensor?
most freezers have 2 controls. 1 is a defrost terminator and the other is a fan delay. the delay and the defrost terminator can sometimes be a "2 in 1" type switch. you would have to study the wiring diagram. The delay will not let the fans come on untill the evap reaches a preset temperature. take another look at the diagram. It may be that the evap is not getting cold enough. you may have a refrigeration issue.
Check to see if there is correct,complete power to the fan. If not, look for a fan delay that may be attached to the evap. It comes in many configurations. It may have two or three wires going to it. They may be two black wire or 3 wire of different colors. Power goes to the fan thru this device. It may not be working or the evap not getting cold enough to activate it. I will need model and serial to help more.
Let me know what you find.
It is the defrost terminator terminal. It is connected to a thermodisc, like a Klixon device. When the evap temp. reaches a preset temp. it forces the termination of the defrost cycle. http://www.victory-refrig.com/index.htm
Go to this site as it has wiring diagrams of freezers. check out the VF-1 freezer diagram.
Hope this helps.
Most all commercial freezers have a fan delay/ defrost terminator. It is usually mounted on the end of the evap coil. It's purpose is to sense the temp of the coil during the defrost cycle. When it hits a preset temp., usually around 55 degrees or more (depends on Mfg.) It terminates the defrost cycle. It also doubles as a fan delay. It allows the evap coil to cool off from the defrost cycle before allowing the fan to come on. Usually, the coil has to get around 20 degrees before fan will energize. I would look for this as a possible problem. It could be one device with 3 wires or 2 separate devices with 2 wires each. I've seen it both ways.
Hope this helps.
Normally, freezers have electric heaters that are energized during the defrost cycle. Once out of the defrost cycle, the refrigeration system comes on but the fans do not. This allows the evap to cool off and to prevent circulating warm air from the heaters. This is controlled by a fan delay switch. It is a small, round device that can have 2, 3, or 4 wires going to it, depending on the manufacturer. It is usually clipped on to the end of the evap coil on one of the "U" bends, near the top, inside one of the ends of the evap. Usually where all the electrial components are located. It come in several variations, but it's main function is to prevent the fans from energizing too early. Usually does not bring fans on till evap hits 20 or so degrees. Check this out and get back to me.
Most all commercial freezers have some sort of fan delay/ defrost termination device. Commonly called a "Klixon" (pronounced clicks-on). It is a device that is attached to the evap. It's function is to terminate the defrost cycle when the evap reaches a certain temp, say about 50 degrees or so, to ensure there is no build up of frost/ ice on the evap. It then allows the compressor to run, and cool the evap down to a reasonable temp., say about 20 degrees, and then let the evap fan come on. It prevents overloading the compressor during a high temp condition, and it also prevents circulating warm air left from the defrost cycle. I believe this device is most likely your problem. With no air circulating, the box will no cool down.. I have seen them burn and/or slhort internally. They can come apart. too. I would look here for that problem. the True manufacturing website does not give alot of info on this piece of equipment, such as a wiring diagram but manuals are available.
Check this out and let me know how it comes out.
Sounds like the sensor circuit may be open. Here is the problem, either it has a board that's bad or the sensor is out. Ohm the sensor circuit and record the temp the box is at in refrigerator and freezer. then the ohm reading. Contact manufacturer or representative of manufacturer, and ask what the sensor should read at the temps you have.
Generally if you get a reading on the sensor circut the sensor is ok, and the board is out BUT not always. this is why you need the temperature and the ohm readings. Sometimes the wire diagram has a legend with these reading on it. Look all around the underneath and behind sections for an envelope containing the wire diagram.
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