Occasionally, and more frequently now, micro starts to run when the door is opened and stops when the door is closed. it will still operate normally but when you go to take food out, it starts running again. we unplug it, reset the clock 1 to 3 times and it stops behaving badly. can this be repaired?

Symptoms of a Bad Door Switch If you are experiencing any of the below symptoms, there is a good chance you have a bad microwave door switch:

• Your microwave doesn't start up when you close the door and press the start button
• Your microwave's interior light, turntable, or fan turns on automatically when you open the door without you hitting the start button
• Your microwave pauses randomly in the middle of cooking as if you had opened the door when the door is still tightly shut

To be completely safe, you should discharge the capacitor before you go poking around inside your microwave.
The capacitor is usually located at the bottom right corner of the microwave.
. How to Test For a Faulty Microwave Door Switch The first thing you should do to test the micro switches is by opening and closing the door. You will want to first rule out the possibility the latch or hook is broken and not activating the switch.
Watch to make sure the latch activates the plunger on the top of each switch as you open and close the door. When the door opens and closes, the plunger should depress and pop back up.
For my microwave, I noticed the plunger on one of the switches stayed down when the door was opened and closed. This was the bad switch.
If all the door switches and latches appear to be working correctly visually, the next step is to test that they are working correctly internally.
You will see two or three terminals on the switch. The terminal on the bottom of the switch will usually be the common (COM) and the ones on the side will be a normally closed (NC) or a normally open (NO) terminal.
If you don't know which terminal is which, there will be a diagram on one side of the switch. Look for which marking the terminal is located next to.
Remove the wires connected to the terminals.
Using a multimeter set for continuity, touch one probe to the COM terminal.
Now if you touch the other probe to the NO terminal, it should read no continuity because that circuit is normally open. Now press down on the plunger. You might sometimes hear a 'click' and your multimeter should report there is continuity.
Testing the NC terminal is similar to testing the NO terminal. Keep one probe on the COM terminal and touch the other to the NC terminal. You should have continuity when the plunger is up because the circuit is normally closed. When you depress the plunger, the circuit should open and your multimeter will say there is no continuity.
Replacing the Faulty Micro Switch Once you have found the bad switch, remove it from the door panel. The switches will usually be mounted on pins through the holes at the corner of the switch with brackets holding it in place.
Should you have trouble getting access to or removing the switches, they are usually all mounted on a plastic frame with screws securing it to the microwave. Remove the screws and you should be able to pull out the frame with all the switches at once.
Once you get the microwave door switch out, you could open it up and try to fix it if you are super cheap, but it will likely fail again soon after. A better long-term solution is to replace it since they are so inexpensive.
These switches are usually rated up to 100,000 operations electrically and 10,000,000 operations mechanically.
To find a replacement switch, look on your old switch for the voltage rating and the type of switch you need. It might have one terminal that is normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC). It could also have both NO and NC terminals, known as a Single Pole Double Throw or SPDT switch. My microwave had two NO switches and one NC switch.
My switch was rated for 15A - 1/2HP - 125/250 VAC, 0.6A 125 VDC or 0.3A 250 VDC.
You can order a normally open micro switch or a normally closed micro switch on Amazon for about $5 with the above rating. You can also order a SPDT micro switch with both the NO and NC terminals and only use one of the two terminals.lastly check for bad control board

This kind problem is usually associated with the door micro switches. What happens is the switches are supposed to prevent operation when the door is open and other things. When one fails, often the oven will run with the door open or closed. There are a number of these micro switches inside and they protect the user from certain unintended actions or combinations of actions. This usually happens with well used ovens. There are extremely dangerous voltages inside a microwave over, even when not connected to power. Find a tech who knows these things.

One of the micro switches in the door is stuck ( faulty ) there are normally 3 switches so after removing the lid open and close the door and you will see the door latches pressing in the button of the micro switch and one of them would indicate that one of the switches is not in line with the latch to press the button in or one of the micro switches has melted inside cosign the switch to release normally open or normally closed, you need a multimeter to test the switches in that case

Hi

If the fuse isn't the problem, check the door hooks and the door-release button. When these are broken, the door switch doesn't activate, so the oven can't work. You should check the internal door switches, the high voltage circuitry and the circuit board for this kind of problems. But for that you will need a certified technician to help you make these repairs.

There is no temper selection per-ce. The microwave is either 'on' or 'off' as it heats. Temperature is related to time selected.

Do you frequently open the door to check the contents while the oven is running? Most people do. When you do this, you invoke the door safety interlock system. This system protects you from dangerous microwave radiation. With the door closed, there is no danger.

What's happening? When you open the door with the oven operating, you open the tiny contacts on the little micro switches that make up the safty interlock. As such, you send a spark through them, burning them a little bit. A little bit added to a little bit added to a little bit adds up to quite a bit and eventually, they fail. When they fail, they are not able to signal to the oven that the door is in fact closed. If the door is not closed (forget what you know about the door) the magnatron will not energize thus no heat. This is, in my experience, the #1 reason for a microwave to fail.

Remove your cover, find the switches and verify their proper operation with a volt/ohm meter. If you call a serviceman to do this for you, expect to pay $100.00 and up. Of course, if you dont know what a micro switch is, don't have a VOM or how to test, this will be money well spent.

Be aware, there is a device inside the cabinet that if you touch the terminals, it can seriously injure or kill. It is the small can, usually silver, that has two terms on the top. It 'stores' electricity in the thousands of volts. DONT TOUCH IT.

I hope this answers your question. Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

Im sorry to hear you are having this trouble.

I believe you have a faulty door safety interlock switch. Please remove the cover and check the small micro switches with your ohm meter.

What frequently happens is this: because of opening the door during oven operation, the small points inside the switches arc and burn. Once they cannot make contact, they are not able to tell the oven the door is closed and when the door is not closed (forget what YOU think the door is doing) the oven will not turn on the magnatron. No magnatron, no heat.

Please let me know what happens

Thank you for posting your question on FixYa.com

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Please check your door safey interlock micro switches.

If you need help with this, please let me know.

What frequently happens is because you probably open the door while the oven is running, (like most of us do) the little micro switches get burned and eventually cannot tell the oven that the door IS, indeed, closed. When the door is "open" (forget that you know the door is closed - the MACHINE needs to know it too) the oven will not turn on the heat.

If you need more info, let me know please.

This is a microwave, correct?

I suspect the door lock interface switch(es) are burned out. Unplug it, be mindful of the 25,000 volts in the silver thing. Check the micro switches (look where the door closes on the top right side, probably) two positions, normally open or normally closed. check them for proper operation.

Micro switches are the most common of microwave failures because most of us open the door while the machine is running causing arc at the switch and burning up the little contacts.

Did you pressed the stop/clear button? or disconnect the micro.. for a couple of hours and try again?

We have the R1480-series service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.

Double-check your wiring against the "pictorial diagram".

The switches will have a "C" (common) terminal, and a "NO" (normally open) terminal, and some will have a "NC" (normally closed) terminal.

As long as those connections are the same and the voltage and current (amps) ratings are the same or higher, any number of switches will work.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

It's easier to secure the switches with hot glue than to replace the latch heads, by the way.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.