Range Model YKESC307HWO: Received Voltage Spike from Power Supply Company resulting in damage to several appliances including my Kitchen Aid Range. The control panel does not light up anymore, resulting in no oven function, the stove top still works but no clock or oven control. Tested the voltage to the control panel at J1-3 120Volts appears, tested voltage at p4 to P3 Chassis 120 Volts appears. Suspecting the T1 transformer on the control board. Any suggests? Your help would be appreciated.

https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1040579

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What does F23 error code message mean on Kenmore Elite built-in double ovens? Report This
by Manage My Life
August 17th, 2009 What does F23 error code message mean on Kenmore Elite built-in double ovens? The model number is 790.48143800.

: What does F23 error code message mean on Kenmore Elite built-in double ovens?

Resolution

: Error code

F 23

indicates the control detected a problem with the communication link or can be generated as a result of irregularities in the power supply or usage.

The error code

F23

can often be resolved by removing power to the appliance for a minute and then restoring the power.

By unplugging the appliance it allows the control to receive a fresh supply of power. This in turn will clear the controls memory of any irregularities it may have received from the power supply. Once refreshed the error should no longer be displayed.

Unplug the unit or turn the circuit breaker off for 60 seconds.

Restore the power to the appliance by plugging it back in or turning the circuit breaker back on.

Check to see if the error code is still displayed on the range.

Run the appliance in the cycle that initially caused the error or attempt to turn on broiler.

If the error code is displayed, then service is needed.

Note

: General resolution for problem is based on information submitted with question. If problem persist, contact a service technician to

Sears Repair Department 1-800-469-4663

Electronic components are very sensitive to voltage surges, spikes or sags.

Voltage is not delivered at a constant 120 volts. With alternating current, the voltage rises and falls in a predetermined rhythm. The voltage oscillates from 0 to a peak voltage of 169 volts. Most appliances and electronics used in the United States are designed to be powered by this form of generated electricity.
During a power surge, the voltage exceeds the peak voltage of 169 volts.

A spike in voltage can be harmful to appliances and electrical devices in your home. An increase in voltage above an appliance's normal operating voltage can cause an arc of electrical current within the appliance. The heat generated in the arc causes damage to the electronic circuit boards and other electrical components.

(Smaller, repeated power surges may slowly damage your electronic equipment, over time too.)

Voltage sags, a.k.a voltage dips or brownouts, is another form of electrical disturbance that can damage appliances as well.

The bottom line, power surges, spikes, and sags can vary in duration and magnitude; and can damage electrical equipment ranging from stereos to computers to any household appliance that uses chip board circuitry sensitive enough to "blow" due to over or under-energizing it.

Check to see if one of the breakers is thrown.

Look on the internet they can help you get that done.

After a power surge or a power outage that resulted in a surge, voltage spike or transient there is almost always going to be damage to electronic circuitry somewhere in the household, especially to electronics using highly sensitive cmos computer chips, especially when additional surge protection hasn't been provided.

These days such computer chips are found in just about every tv, radio, washing machine, fridge, microwave oven - in fact in a modern household there is hardly any appliance or device that doesn't contain such electronics. A surge or spike in the supply often damages circuitry but doesn't immediately render it useless but weakens the components so early failure is likely but not so soon the power surge is fresh in the memory...

There might be an internal fuse that has failed or the fault might be more serious but only removing covers and checking the circuit with a multimeter will reveal the fault.

Hi.It is advisable to turn off your fuse or appliance when there is a power outage..When the power turns back ,it will produce surge amount of voltage that would eventually damage your appliances.when power comes back it has a very abnormal current flow.it may rise or fall which might beyond the wires capability.meaning it goes beyond what the wire can carry..It might be that when the power supply return it gives high current and short circuit the ground and live wires of your electric range.You better check continuity using an OHMETER.MULTITESTER if there is no short circuit.If the reading of the multitester if set to ohms is too high thats beyond the maximum amount going to the right,then there is a short circuit..

NEVER use the self cleaning feature - again!!

Sounds like my problem two days ago. I have a Kitchen Aid free standing gas oven/range model
KGRI801PWH00. I read online that the thermo-fuse might've blown. I found the thermo-fuse after removing the rear panel. It was at the top/center. Mine is T-O-D (brand) 60F24; Westinghouse #8300802. I ordered mine from appliancepartspros.com for only $34.75; arrived in 36 hrs with regular shipping!! Easy to fix, sure beats several hundred $$ to repairman.

Don't bother to call Kitchen Aid - they'll just blow you off just like the hundreds of complaints said that I found online.

Sounds like my problem two days ago. I have a Kitchen Aid free standing gas oven/range model
KGRI801PWH00. I read online that the thermo-fuse might've blown. I found the thermo-fuse after removing the rear panel. It was at the top/center. Mine is T-O-D (brand) 60F24; Westinghouse #8300802. I ordered mine from appliancepartspros.com for only $34.75; arrived in 36 hrs with regular shipping!! Easy to fix, sure beats several hundred $$ to repairman.

Don't bother to call Kitchen Aid - they'll just blow you off just like the hundreds of complaints said that I found online.

I can not respond to the warranty issues. My kitchen aid mixer is past warranty as well. I live in a country that uses 220V and my kitchen aid mixer is 110V. I have been using my kitchen aid mixer for almost 4 years with no problems at all.

The converter boxes are supposed to blow the fuse on the converter before it reaches your appliance and cause any problems.

If you purchase a 220V kitchen aid (although it would cost more money) it would probably have more power because of the higher voltage.

Hope this helps!

not very specific in your statement, so I'll venture a few things to look at.

Check to see that it is getting the correct power (voltage). Could be wired wrong.

Several things could be causing this. If electric, wrong or low voltage. If it is new, just out of the box, then it could have received some shipping damage. Delivery trucks never hit potholes (Ha Ha). A simple wire could be loose or probe knocked out of position.

Something is telling the controls that the desired temp is reached and the unit it cycling off.

This may or may not be a simple fix.