Removed old 110 volt 2 burner cooktop - installed GE 2 burner cooktop - connected the 110 volt from old cooktop - hooked black line wire to black cooktop wire - hooked red wire to white common wire - hooked ground wire to ground wire - the burners heat very slow but never get red - will not even boil water - what did i do wrong?
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white and ground are grounds there should be a ground rial in the fuse box, stove is 220 black and red go to 2 seperate breakers, 25 amps, and 15 amp is for 110 regular outlet
First, i tried turning on/off power with no luck. if you get this code you will probably just need to replace the LF burner, which is pretty easy to do. i researched and found GE OEM parts from appliance zone. info is below:
ApplianceZone.com Items 1 Stove / Oven / Range Radiant Element Lf - WB30T10080 (OEM) @ $170.67 = $170.67 Sub-Total: $170.67 Shipping: $6.95 Standard Shipping (6.95) USD ApplianceZone.com Total: $177.62
Once i received then new burner i just replaced it and all is working fine, no error code! First i turned off all power and removed my cooktop from my counter and unscrewed the sheet metal shroud on the bottom, only remove the screws around the perimeter of shroud closets to glass, they are small black Phillips screws, like 15 screws total. i didn't disconnect any wires from the unit to junction box, you should be able to leave all that alone if you have a long enough connection. i made the mistake of leaving the cooktop upside down when removing the metal shroud, don't do this. there are springs on posts that keep the burners tight to the glass and will fall out (if up side down). leave the cooktop right side up and just lift off the glass once you remove all screws, when lifting the glass off, there is one plug at the circuit board attached to glass that you will need to unplug to completely remove the glass and set aside. you will see the 4 burners, i took a picture of the unit with glass removed to make sure i could reference any wires when i was re-installing new burner. i unplugged all wires to LF burner and unplugged the harness from the circuit board. once i removed old burner i noticed the new burner doesn't include the 2 tabs you need. i removed them from the old burner and made sure to install them in the same location on the new burner. I than plugged in all wires and harness back into the unit and set burner on posts with springs. carefully replace glass and don't forget to plug the glass top circuit board back into the unit circuit board. re-attach metal shroud and screws, drop in and done! there are instructions to re-calibrate the new burner which is probably a good idea, i didn't and it is working just fine! good luck
sounds like the old one is 110 volts , and the new one is 220 volts. incompatable, as the 220 ones would work, but at half power if you didnt use the red wire. might work fine. omit the red wire and wee what happens
You really shouldn't have tried this. If you mixed up the neutral and hot wire YOU COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED!!!! You also could have burned out the fan motor. The fan operates on 120 volts the rest on 220. On most cooktops the frame is grounded to the neutral. If you connected this wrong the entire outside of the cooktop could be live. You might not be shocked if you have on rubber shoes but if you touched the stove barefooted you could be killed! The house wire should have 2 hot wires usuallly black or red. It really doesn't matter which is which. There should be a neutral (usually white or bare) There can also be a seperate ground wire (usually green or bare) If only 3 wires from house connect the white and green together. The minimum wire size should be #10 fused at 30 amps. Test the voltage between the 2 hot wires. It should be 220. Between either hot wire and neutral or ground should be 110 volts .. IF YOU DON"T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING CALL SOMEONE ELSE. This is very dangerous if hooked up wrong.
Are you sure that is the proper wire from the wall? What you are describing is a 110 volt circuit. THis cooktop should be connected with at least #10 wire and fused at 30 amps. You should have black red and at least white with possible bare ground wire. Assuming somebody used the wrong wire during original install job, you have it connected right. Please replace with heavier wire if it is not #10 Or at least make sure it is fused at no more than 20 amps if smaller wire. (You may sometimes blow circuit breaker if all burners are used on high at once) Use a volt meter and check voltage. If this is a 220 volt circuit you should have 220 volts between black and white and 110 volts from either one to bare ground wire.
The wiring diagram is pasted on the inside of the panel you remove to get to the wiring. If no wiring diagram The blower operates on 110 volts not 220 So the wire goes from one of the hot sides (Black or red) to the switch controlling the fan to the motor , from the motor to the neutral (white/Bare) wire terminal. Pilot light for fan is attached to the same wires as the motor. If you don't know what you are doing disconnect all wires from the burner switches to the fan motor. This will mean you have to switxh on the fan yourself whenever you need it.
You have Red and Black HOT wires and a Green Neutral - That is 220 volts. From the wall - Black is Normally HOT and White is Neutral. That is 110 volts. If that is a typical household outlet, is will only supply a demand at about 15 amps while running at 110 volts. Your Cooktop will most likely demand somewhere around 50 amps at 220 volts. - Short Answer - You will need to have a 220 volt supply line ran to the cooktop from the breaker. Easy to do but dangerous if you are unfamiliar with high voltage.
You do need a 208/240 volt supply from your service panel. The green is ground, white is nuetral, and the red and black should measure 120 volts each to ground or 240/208 between each other. It is normal for most breaker panels to supply 208/240 between adjacent insulators. If you are only getting 1/2 of that then the circuit breaker may not be straddling the insulator bar but be 1/2 notch out and both breaker pins contacting the same 110 supply.
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