I have at least one blown component in the power supply of my Panasonic DMR E55S DVR. I am really after a circuit diagram to help identify the value of a resistor that also looks like it has suffered from heat damage. I have also been told that this is a common problem due to the heatsink being too small and that there are after market replacements available. Appreciate any info on where I can get a circuit diagram. Thanks in anticipation

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hi,
I have the service manual for Panasonic DMR-ES10 in PDF format. If you can give your email address then i will sent the manual to that. I can't up load the manual trough fixya as it a PDF file.
OK

Sounds like IC1 in the power supply and associated components in the same area. IC1 is usually identifiable by its type number (STRxxxxx) and is in most cases a 5-pin regulator. Best way to check this is with a CRO, measure the 12V rail (it should be easy to locate). If it is low, or varying, then this IC is the prime suspect and should be replaced, along with all electrolytic capacitors in the power circuit. Either way, the originating cause would likely be in the PSU.

I suggest, if you have no prior experience with servicing these units, that you take it to an authorised Panasonic service centre and obtain a quote for the likely repair cost(s)/parts involved, then you can decide afterwards if it is economical to fix or not; it's up to you.

From experience with similar Panasonic models of DVD recorders, the continuous self-check mode (most notably in the DMR-E55) with no other functions is due to an internal short-circuit (usually on the 12V rail) in the power supply.

This is a known fault with the Panasonic DMRs. Basically, the main chip in the power supply circuitry starts to fail intermittemntly due to poor design of the heatsink.
If you search FixYa site it will come up many times.
Unless you or a friend can (safely !) identify, handle, desolder and solder electronic components, this is not a DIY repair.
If you can, like I said there are already several really good FixYa fixes for this.

This is a known fault with the Panasonic DMRs. Basically, the main chip in the power supply circuitry starts to fail intermittemntly due to poor design of the heatsink.
If you search FixYa site it will come up many times.
Unless you or a friend can (safely !) identify, handle, desolder and solder electronic components, this is not a DIY repair.
If you can, like I said there are already several really good FixYa fixes for this.

The power supply board on the DMR-E85H has problems. The earlier boards suffered from leaking capacitors and the later boards from voltage regulator problems. If your machine is now dead, the fuse on the power supply board has also blown.Go to the following links for details and photos on how to fix:Replacing capacitors:http://www.fixya.com/support/t216825-dvd_recorder_frozen_please_wait_displayReplacing the voltage regulator:http://www.rbjtech.net/electrical/e85/e85.htm#0Hope this helps. My machine had the later ps board and the voltage regulator replacement worked perfectly.

Could be a blown internal fuse or a fault on the power supply board. If you can check these things yourself look towards a voltage regulator as the main culprit. Good luck.

Hi

Unfortunately, this is a common fault with these units.
Fortunately though, it can be fixed.

See my earlier solution show below.......

Ok guys, you asked for a fix for the DMR E55 Self Checking cycle. Here goes.
In 99% of cases this is caused by a faulty regulator on the main power board.

The power board is located on the right hand side of the unit. The regulator is IC001 which is mounted on a thin metal strip which acts as a totally inadequate heatsink. This means that this component constantly works at temperatures beyond its tolerance.

Because of this it usually lasts a couple of years and then starts causing problems. The Self Checking syndrome is typical. If the regulator burns out completely, it can take other components with it, blow fuses and scorch the circuit board.

If you are competent in using a soldering iron with care, order an STRG 6353 regulator. These can be obtained online from a number of suppliers.

Disconnect your DMR E55 from the power source and remove the lid. Next, remove the fixing screws from the circuit board on the right where the regulator is located. Carefully remove the multi connector on the left side of the board. Remove the screw above the power connector on the rear of the unit. The power board can now be removed from the cabinet.

Using a small pair of wire cutters, clip all five pins from the old regulator as close the the top of the board as possible. Undo the screw securing it to the heatsink and remove the old regulator which can now be thrown away.

Next, using your soldering iron, remove what's left of the pins from the printed board and with a solder ****** or desoldering braid, clear the holes ready to accept your new regulator. Be careful because if you over heat the print it can lift away from the board.

Use a little heatsink compound on the back of your new regulator, poke the pins through the circuit board and then secure it to the heatsink. I usually fit an extra heatsink on these units which helps to reduce heat and prolong the life of the new component.

Next, resolder the 5 pins on the print side of the board. Use a magnifying glass and make sure you haven't missed anything or bridged connections in error and caused short circuits.

Now put the board back. This can be a little tricky but it's easy enough if you take care. Refit all the screws and carefully reconnect the multi connector.

If you have followed this correctly, switch the unit back on, pop in a DVD and give it a try. Unless you are very unlucky, Your DMR E55 will no longer repeatedly self check and will operate correctly.

Whilst it saddens me to hear that some of you guys would toss your DMR E55s into the trash can for such an easily repairable problem, please do not attempt this unless you are confident in your own ability.

Finally, do check that the fan operates but remember it is temperature controlled and will not activate until it is needed. Do not assume it is faulty because you do not see it working straight away. I have repaired lots of DMR E55s and I have never found a single fan or fan control circuit to be faulty. That's not to say it can't fail. good luck...

Hi Benyto

Thank you for the information. Sorry that you are having such problems.

Nearly all the problems on ths DMR E55 are due to a faulty power board. The greatest load on the power supply is when the unit first reads discs and also when finalizing. Sometimes the unit cannot read discs and sometimes it continuously self checks.

Try replacing IC001 on the power board. This is a 5 pin regulator #STRG6353. This component gets very hot and the heatsink is poor. When I replace these, I use a larger heatsink and some heatsink paste which helps to prolong the life of the component. If you look at the regulator, you will see by the colour of the circuit board that it gets very hot. It fails after two or three years in all DMR E55s.

Be careful when you take the old regulator out because the print can lift away from the circuit board.

I have posted full instructions on how to replace the STRG6353 >HERE<

Hope this helps

Ok guys, you asked for a fix for the DMR E55 Self Checking cycle. Here goes.
In 99% of cases this is caused by a faulty regulator on the main power board. The power board is located on the right hand side of the unit. The regulator is IC001 which is mounted on a thin metal strip which acts as a totally inadequate heatsink. This means that this component constantly works at temperatures beyond its tolerance. Because of this it usually lasts a couple of years and then starts causing problems. The Self Checking syndrome is typical. If the regulator burns out completely, it can take other components with it, blow fuses and scorch the circuit board.
If you are competent in using a soldering iron with care, order an STRG 6353 regulator. These can be obtained online from a number of suppliers. Disconnect your DMR E55 from the power source and remove the lid.
Next, remove the fixing screws from the circuit board on the right where the regulator is located. Carefully remove the multi connector on the left side of the board. Remove the screw above the power connector on the rear of the unit. The power board can now be removed from the cabinet. Using a small pair of wire cutters, clip all five pins from the old regulator as close the the top of the board as possible. Undo the screw securing it to the heatsink and remove the old regulator which can now be thrown away.
Next, using your soldering iron, remove what's left of the pins from the printed board and with a solder sucker or desoldering braid, clear the holes ready to accept your new regulator. Be careful because if you over heat the print it can lift away from the board.
Use a little heatsink compound on the back of your new regulator, poke the pins through the circuit board and then secure it to the heatsink. I usually fit an extra heatsink on these units which helps to reduce heat and prolong the life of the new component.
Next, resolder the 5 pins on the print side of the board. Use a magnifying glass and make sure you haven't missed anything or bridged connections in error and caused short circuits.
Now put the board back. This can be a little trick but it's easy enough if you take care. Replace all the screws and carefully reconnect the multi connector.
If you have followed this correctly, switch the unit back on, pop in a DVD and give it a try. Unless you are very unlucky, You DMR E55 will no longer repeatedly self check and will operate correctly. Whilst it saddens me to hear that some of you guys would toss your DMR E55s into the trash can for such an easily repairable problem, please do not attempt this unless you are confident in your own ability.
Finally, do check that the fan operates but remember it is temperature controlled and will not activate until it is needed. Do not assume it is faulty because you do not see it working straight away. I have repaired lots of DMR E55s and I have never found a single fan or fan control circuit to be faulty. That's not to say it can't fail. good luck...