I need glue-on clips to hold the access panel in place; where can I find them for purchase?

Toyota Tazz driver side window refused to wind properly. Problem was that winder mechanism and window separated - old glue. Found some input from Ben on this forum. Some pointers after doing the job today.
Step 1 - remove the arm rest - two screws
Step 2 - remove the screw holding the door opener handle.
Step 3 - remove the C-clip holding the winder handle. The clip is round but the ends are slightly bent outward - to fit back easily. Use a large screwdriver to force a small opening (thus moving the panel slightly inward). I took a piece of thin solid wire and bent it into a loop. This looped wire I hooked around the one end of the clip and pulled in the opposite direction towards the inside of the car. The open end is towards the part of the handle you wind. Make sure the top of the handle faces towards the interior of the car (door is open wide). The clip shot off (as Ben warned) but landed in the car.
Step 4 - the door handle (square) must be slid forward and outward towards you. Will now be loose but is held by the rod going to the lock.
Step 5 - loosen all clips carefully by pulling the panel forward - large screwdriver works.
Step 6 - lift up the panel - and push the door handle holder through the hole in the panel. The panel will now be free.
Step 7 - the window can be removed in this case where window and mechanism seperated by simply pulling the window upwards and outwards.
Step 8 - I used a small grinder and removed most of the glue - but not all.
Step 9 - put the window back into the door making sure it is correctly aligned in the side-sliders.
Step 10 - I used an epoxy 2-part glue (Pratley) and placed some glue in the holders. Position the window and mechanism correctly (using glue I left as marker). Note that only 2 holes in door panel can be used to see or fit glue.
Step 11 - Mix more glue and apply front and back. Now place some grease in the mechanism rail (horizontal) and wind window to the top. Leave to dry.
Step 12 - replace all in reverse. Clip pushes on easily - I used a small long-nose pliers.

Cheers,
Chris Snyman

If you are referring to a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER (such as Kenmore, Estate, Roper, Frigidaire and some later model Maytags), the interior of the washer is accessed by removing the exterior washer case. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3631789-washer_case_removal_whirlpool_top

Older Maytag and GE TOP LOADER interiors are commly accessed by locating the two retaining clip along the seam where the top panel meets the front of the washer (about 2 inches in from each side) and pushing in with a putty knife to depress. This releases the top and it can be lifted up. The access screws that hold the front panel in pace are now accessible and can be loosened to remove the front panel for full access to the interior.

If this is a FRONT LOADER, the interior is accessed on MOST models by removing the washer top panel. This is accomplished by removing the retaining screws that hold the top panel in place in the rear of the washer. This will allow access to the controls and dispenser. For access to the drain pump and drive components, you will need to remove the kick panel directly below the door. There are a series of retaining screws along the bottom front edge that hold the panel in place.

If none of these tips help, please post back with a MODEL NUMBER so that I may assist you further.

Not sure if this will address the problem but it maybe worth a try. We also had problems with our dryer starting but the lint indicator was not on. We found the problem was with the start/stop button; it was not making contact with the mini-switch. Used some hot glue under the lever that makes contact with the mini-switch. Put it back together and works great again. Saved about $260 on new control panel. Removing the control panel was pretty easy for a DIYer.

Unplug the dryer.

Remove the four screws that hold the panel in place. They will be hidden under caps on the housing, Pull off the panel. Be careful because the wires will prevent you from pulling it entirely off but you can pull it from the right corner up and flip it on its back side to expose the back of the panel.

The white wire guard will have to be removed. The wire ties holding the wires to the guard will have to be removed by cutting the ties. Replacement wires ties can be purchased at any home improvement store. Remove the control panel by pushing the plastic clips in that hold it to the housing. There should be 6 and two plastic clips on the right center of the panel. If done right it will easily pull off. If force is needed one or more of the clips have not been disengaged. Do not force it because it is made of plastic and will break.

Once the control panel is removed from its housing, the start/stop button can be identified-last one either on the right or left (can

Same happened to our dryer. The only problem was the start/stop button was not making contact with the mini-switch. Used some hot glue under the lever that makes contact with the mini-switch. Put it back together and works great again. Saved about $260 on new control panel. Removing the control panel was pretty easy for a DIYer.

Unplug the dryer.

Remove the four screws that hold the panel in place. They will be hidden under caps on the housing, Pull off the panel. Be careful because wires will prevent you from pulling it entirely off but you can pull it from the right corner up and flip it on its back side to expose the back of the panel.

The white wire guard will have to be removed. The wire ties holding the wires to the guard will have to be removed by cutting the ties. Replacement wires ties can be purchased at any home improvement store. Remove the control panel by pushing the plastic clips in that hold it to the housing. There should be 6 and two plastic clips on the right center of the panel. If done right it will easily pull off. If force is needed one or more of the clips have not been disengaged. Do not force it because it is made of plastic and will break.

Once the control panel is removed from its housing, the start/stop button can be identified-last one either on the right or left (can't remember). When the button in the housing is pushed the arm under the button is not making contact with the mini-switch. I added a little hot glue to where the bottom of the button comes in contact with the arm. This will act as a shim and should fix the problem. I removed the arm to add the hot glue. It just pulls out. Reassemble the unit in reverse order. Be sure to reattach the wires to the wire guard so they do not end up getting ripped out by the moving drum.

Taking digital photos as you go will help in putting the control panel back in the housing and knowing where to reattach the wires to the wire guard.

Hope this helps. Good luck

Here is what happened to our nexxt dryer. So this may be the problem with yours. Our dryer is about 6 years old. The start/stop button was not making contact with the mini-switch. Used some hot glue under the lever that makes contact with the mini-switch. Put it back together and works great again. Saved about $260 on new control panel. Removing the control panel was pretty easy for a DIYer.

Unplug the dryer.

Remove the four screws that hold the panel in place. They will be hidden under caps on the housing, Pull off the panel. Be careful because the wires will prevent you from pulling it entirely off but you can pull it from the right corner up and flip it on its back side to expose the back of the panel.

The white wire guard will have to be removed. The wire ties holding the wires to the guard will have to be removed by cutting the ties. Replacement wires ties can be purchased at any home improvement store. Remove the control panel by pushing the plastic clips in that hold it to the housing. There should be 6 and two plastic clips on the right center of the panel. If done right it will easily pull off. If force is needed one or more of the clips have not been disengaged. Do not force it because it is made of plastic and will break.

Once the control panel is removed from its housing, the start/stop button can be identified-last one either on the right or left (can

Not sure if this will address the problem but it maybe worth a try. We also had problems with our dryer starting but the lint indicator was not on. We found the problem was with the start/stop button; it was not making contact with the mini-switch. Used some hot glue under the lever that makes contact with the mini-switch. Put it back together and works great again. Saved about $260 on new control panel. Removing the control panel was pretty easy for a DIYer.

Unplug the dryer.

Remove the four screws that hold the panel in place. They will be hidden under caps on the housing, Pull off the panel. Be careful because the wires will prevent you from pulling it entirely off but you can pull it from the right corner up and flip it on its back side to expose the back of the panel.

The white wire guard will have to be removed. The wire ties holding the wires to the guard will have to be removed by cutting the ties. Replacement wires ties can be purchased at any home improvement store. Remove the control panel by pushing the plastic clips in that hold it to the housing. There should be 6 and two plastic clips on the right center of the panel. If done right it will easily pull off. If force is needed one or more of the clips have not been disengaged. Do not force it because it is made of plastic and will break.

Once the control panel is removed from its housing, the start/stop button can be identified-last one either on the right or left (can

Same happened to our dryer yesterday. The only problem was the start/stop button was not making contact with the mini-switch. Used some hot glue under the lever that makes contact with the mini-switch. Put it back together and works great again. Saved about $260 on new control panel. Removing the control panel was pretty easy for a DIYer.

Unplug the dryer.

Remove the four screws that hold the panel in place. They will be hidden under caps on the housing, Pull off the panel. Be careful because wires will prevent you from pulling it entirely off but you can pull it from the right corner up and flip it on its back side to expose the back of the panel.

The white wire guard will have to be removed. The wire ties holding the wires to the guard will have to be removed by cutting the ties. Replacement wires ties can be purchased at any home improvement store. Remove the control panel by pushing the plastic clips in that hold it to the housing. There should be 6 and two plastic clips on the right center of the panel. If done right it will easily pull off. If force is needed one or more of the clips have not been disengaged. Do not force it because it is made of plastic and will break.

Once the control panel is removed from its housing, the start/stop button can be identified-last one either on the right or left (can't remember). When the button in the housing is pushed the arm under the button is not making contact with the mini-switch. I added a little hot glue to where the bottom of the button comes in contact with the arm. This will act as a shim and should fix the problem. I removed the arm to add the hot glue. It just pulls out. Reassemble the unit in reverse order. Be sure to reattach the wires to the wire guard so they do not end up getting ripped out by the moving drum.

Taking digital photos as you go will help in putting the control panel back in the housing and knowing where to reattach the wires to the wire guard.

Hope this helps. Good luck,

You'll need to access the rear panels to obtain access

No glue. The door has clips inside that holds it in place. You can gently use a flat screwdriver, or places like www.ipdusa.com have tools for this purpose. The plastic in the inside door release handle may need to come out as well. I can't remember that part. It is easy though. Be careful not to break any of the clips. They can be replaced, but it is a hassle.

The outer user interface / touchpad stays in place. it can be removed only after removing the electronic machine relay board. The relay board is accessed from the inside of the door. You need to separate the inner door panel from the outer door panel. After removing the screws from around the inside of the door, the inner panel should lift up and away from the outer panel. The plastic cover should just clip on. you may need to use a flat screwdriver to release one or more of the clips. After that you'll be able to see any screws or clips holding the relay board in place.