Our tub has a lip around the top of 3 sides. The tub was either set in a little crooked or the wall is crooked. The inside corner on the faucet end of the tub the concrete wallboard is recessed about 1/8 to 3/8 inch from the tub lip. On the inside corner of the other end the tub lip is recessed from the wall board. Is there any way we can install ceramic tile without dismantling the entire surround? Would it be best to go with a solid surround? If so, we need an idea about how to cover or trim the tub lip on the outside of the tub. Thank you for any advice you can give. Betty Ferrell

Typically the model number is in one of 3 places

inside the lid

on the back of the control panel

on the lower left front corner of the cabinet on the left side wall of the cabinet

the blockage is most likely under your clothes basket. to get to it you will need to remove the basket. you need a 7/16 socket, a pair of pliers, and a 1 to 2" putty knife. using the putty knife push the 2 releases on either side of the top about 2 to 3" in from the corner. they can be hard to release so don't be afraid to pull hard up while pushing. then open the lid and raise the top up to lean against the wall. once top is resting against wall, remove the plastic ring around the top of the tub. this releases with several tabs around the outside. the is a hose connected to this on the back left corner area. use pliers and release clamp and remove hose, then set the ring to the side.
at the bottom of the tub is the impeller, agitator. at its center is a plastic button, remove this. under that is a 7/16 bolt. remove this bolt completely.
then grab the plastic ring around the clothes basket and pull straight up. it may take some force to lift. once it is free remove and set on floor out of the way. the outside of the basket is like a cheese grater so be careful it can get ya.
under the basket you will see your blockage. if not then you need a 1/4" socket to remove the plastic strainer at the back of the tub in the bottom. the clear the blockage and reassemble in reverse.
good luck

The seal is not a 100% seal, but to access there are two types, one type the tub faucet screws on and the other style is retained by an allen set screw. if you have the set screw type, you will notice a slot on the underside of the faucet, at the tub wall end, look up in there. If you see an allen, loosen it and pull the faucet straight off. if no slot or allen, unscrew the entire faucet, counter clockwise (top to the left, for those digital clock people...).

You need to replace the tub diverter/spout. There are two kinds, I hope you have the kind with
an allen head set screw on the bottom side of the spout near the shower wall. These are super
easy to replace ! Loosen the set screw, twist the spout a little and it should slide off. When installing
the new spout, smear some vaseline on the copper pipe sticking out, this will help seal the new O rings in the spout.

The other kind of spout has pipe threads in it. They can be a little more tricky. I got called to a
house one time. The plastic female threads on the spout cracked when the plumber installed it.
The water ran down the inside of the wall and did damage down stairs. The leak could not be seen
until the sheet rock down stairs fell down from being soaked. You need to put some pipe dope on the threads, then tighten the spout on by hand, so as not to scratch it with a pump pliers.

I hope this helps !

these are screwed on. you might need a wrench to remove if it is hard to turn. you will need to turn counter clockwise to remove it.

when installing the new one (same model) do not over tighten! do not use a wrench, using your hands only turn clockwise until it is snug and pointing straight down. a little teflon tape is recomended.

sometimes the old "nipple" will come out with the old spout, just remove it from the old spout and re-use on the new one. use a little silicone around the spout against the wall, on the top and sides only, do not go all the way around it. this will let any moisture that gets behind it to drain out.

You mean a tub surround? You have no box for the tub to sit in? What were planning on using to hide the sides of the tub? Most big tubs, whirlpools, jacuzzis, etc, sit in a frame work of two by fours and plywood, the ply top supports the tub and the tile, The ply walls or tile board walls are needed for the tile, access to the motor is necessary if you don't have a panel on the tub itself. The tub is set in a finished box, all the tile work done on the top, and set in a ***** of concrete for support. This is for tubs with no sides on them, some tubs have one side finished, and they go up against the walls, and get tiled over the lip. But they get set in mud too. But no walls, just a band against the wall for support. I have seen every tub in every house we have worked on for 25 years done this way, it works. Check it out. Hope this helps. And I hope this is what you are talking about.

Is the little screen in your hot water line clogged? (not the hose - inside the connection on the washer where you attach the hot water) Please check it.

First turn off water then remove the wall board ,or paneling at least 12 in above tub lip .,Remove more if you can.The more room you have the easer it is to slide the new tub into place. Now you should be able to reach the tubs drains unsrcew or cut them out When you have the drains disconnected .pull any nails or screws from around the tub. Look at the path you have to take to get the tub out ,you'll probably have to remove the toilet tubspout or maybe even the lavitory.when your path is clear put a flat bar between a stud and the inside edge of the tub pry the tub up and out. You way have to move from one stud to another.When its off the wall on the inside edge see if you can pick the back end of the tub up.This should make it easier.Remove all the bad flooring .You will need some lumber now replace the floor joist or scab onto them (you will need 3 or 4 ft of good joist on eather end to scab onto.If the edges of the new floor board dont land on a floor joist simply nail aboard onto the side of the joist it needs to meet on level with the other joist.Where the front of the tub sits cut a hole out about 10x12 in center of hole14and1/2in for standard tub and off the wall in front of the tub 12 in.This will give you room for the tub shoe(thats the part the tub basket screws into) Sit tub on flat level surface and measure from the ground up to the inside edge of tub .Nail a 2x4 on the inside wall about 4 ft long off the floor as high as the edge of the tub.Take your time and get this right if you dont you will have to pull the tub back up after you've set it in place..If you have room you can put the waste and over flow on the tub follow the instructions on the package use pipe compound on threds and plumbers putty on the basket lip.If your not going to be able glue the trap after the tub is inSet the center of drain 14 1/2 in off inside wall and 1 1/2 off front wall .put tub into place front in first drop down the back and slide tub ont the board you nailed up earlier level it up dont add pitch the tub has pitch built into it takes screws or roofing nail securing tub to studs hook up the drain P.S.dont nail or screw through the tub instead nail or screw just above the top liof the lip fill the tub completly up .plug up the over flow When water gets to edge of tub lip look fore leaks then release stopper and finish looking for leaks . YOU HAVE A LOT TO DO! Good Luck!!

Disconnect power.

Open the door and look along the front upper edge of the door opening. In the top left and right rounded corner of the door opening you will see screws going upward into the top. Remove both screws and raise the top.

Look down inside the open top dryer from above . If unbroken it should be showing across the tub from left to right. If broken you won't see a belt (about 3/8" thick). If belt is missing, proceed. On each left and right edge there will be a screw holding the front assembly to the case of the dryer. Remove 1 on each side.

The dryer front can now be pulled toward you about 3 inches at the top. Take the new belt and work it over the drum from front by lifting and rotating the drum. Lay belt on drum about 1/2 way back from front with groves down on the drum and proceed to reassemble machine by reversing disassembly procedure.

When reassembling the top, part of each underside edge of the top must go beneath a sheet metal lip located at each right and left edge of the dryer just below the control panel. If the small space between the side and top panels is wider at the back than the front you have not accomplished this alignment, try again.

Once you have the top and front back on, pull out the dryer and remove the small access panel at the back bottom. The belt must be "looped" around the motor and idler pulley like this ( http://www.applianceaid.com/images/ldrger-idler-pulley.jpg ). Slowly turn the drum around one turn to line up the belt, to make sure that it will not fall off because of being crooked or twisted.

Trace the wiring. you must have a bare wire or something shorting the circuit. The wiring will run from the front to the rear under the lip inside the drivers side door and continue along under the lip along the top inside of the body tub to the drivers side rear corner. then down through the fender well in the corner near the back of the roll cage.