Cooper Wiring Devices Three Way Grounded Switch, 15 Amp Logo
Posted on Feb 04, 2011

I have a Cooper 7503W-Box switch that I want to use to replace a rotary dimmer wall switch. From the wall I have one white wire that is connected to a red wire on the existing switch, a black wire that is connected to a black wire on the existing switch, a red wire connected to a second red wire on the switch, and a bare ground wire that is NOT being used by the existing switch. My question is how do I connect the new Cooper switch to my house wiring? I know the ground goes to the green terminal and the black wire goes to the black terminal but I'm unsure which terminals to attach the remaining white and red wires. Thank you.

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  • Posted on Mar 03, 2011
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The other two are travelers and if the circuit was previously hooked up correctly you can connect the white and red to either screw.

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Could be several reasons, but here's what i think is most likely. First, there are other wires in the box that are not connected to the switch - 4 ground wires all connected together, and 4 white wires all connected together. You only 1 hot black wire coming into the box. This wire goes to one side of the switch, but it is tied to a 2nd black wire that is going on to something else (like another switch or an outlet). That counts for two of the black wires. The other two black wires are on the output side of the switch and are going to two places - pehaps the switch is used to control two ceiling light fixtures. The good news is that unless you have a lighted switch there is no difference between the IN side and OUT side of the switch - it works the same either way, and you can connect the switch just like the dimmer was hooked up - even if my explanation of why is not exactly your situation. Good luck!
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Cooper 7503w is a 3-way switch.
It sounds like you purchased correct switch.
Remember, fixya answers questions about products. We don't sell Cooper wiring devices.

You have a continuity tester which is excellent, because electricians test, they don't guess.
Hopefully you have a voltage tester for testing steps shown below images.
Notice that new switch has 1 dark screw and 2 brass screws.
Dark screw is 'common.'
Brass screws are 'travelers.'
Screws are color-coded so electricians know where to connect wires

geno_3245_204.jpg

If your switch is a 4-way, it will have 4 screws: Notice switch located in middle of 3-way switches has 4 screws.
geno_3245_205.jpg

If old switch is 4-way, then each time switch is flipped, it will reverse travelers on either side of device.
The same is true with a 3-way switch. Each time switch is flipped, the travelers are reversed.
So a 4-way switch can be used as a 3-way switch, so old switch might be 4-way switch substituted for 3-way.

The key is testing wires in your box.
You have two switches that control same light. Switch1 and switch2.
Switch1 is still installed. Move switch1 to DOWN position.
You are replacing switch2 and have unknown wires at that location.
Switch1 is DOWN position.
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Turn power ON.
Test each wire against each other wire and against metal box to find Hot wire with power. Mark this wire.
Move switch 1 to UP position, and test wires again to find Hot wire.
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If different wire is Hot each time, then these are the travelers and these wires connect to brass colored screws in either order. The final wire connects to dark screw.

Now if you have additional wire, that could be wire going to next receptacle.
Leave this wire disconnected and check nearby boxes for power.
If this is a power wire that advance power to next receptacle, it probably connects to dark screw.
Again, you should test, and use process of elimination until each wire is identified.
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Turn on the power and feel good about your work!
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