I bought this maytag black smooth top stove and have a problem with hooking it up the clock is working but nothing else - I do not see a model number and there is no manual

sounds like the clock assy. is bad part 316557206 heat usually is the cause of this part to fail,people use the self clean the oven gets up to 1000 degrees and damages the clock assy. or a large pot was on top of the stove and the heat damaged it but whatever the cause was you need to change out the clock assy. if the touch pad is black you can reuse it if it's white for some reason it doesn't peel off without damaging the overlay get a putty knife and a hair dryer,heat up the overlay and peel it off with the putty knife,go here to see the parts
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/FGFLMC55ECA/1428/0124002.html
it looks like this only comes with the black overlay because it doesn't show any other colors so you can order the overlay or peel it off and save some bucks,go to the sight,put your model number in,go to backguard and look at parts 20 and 20a this is what you need,first i would check all the wires going to the clock assy. to make sure there isn't a broken wire.good luck

go on line and type in admiral stoves
there are pages of parts suppliers
on the back of the stove or inside the inspection plate at the back there will be a decal stating the model and serial number of the stove

https://removeandreplace.com/2017/03/21/maytag-oven-error-codes-stove-range-fault-codes-causes-and-solutions/

The clock controls the ovens. In other words, directly you set any time on the clock, a contact operates within it to provide power to the ovens. (Normally the grill remains operational). You may need a new clock/timer. Before you do so, try switching the power off at the main isolating switch and leaving it off for a few mins, then switching it back on, to try to get the clock to operate. You may need to do this a few times.
Normally Stoves stick a label identifying the model on the left hand edge of the lower oven. You see this when you lower the main oven door. it will probably start with a 05 and be 9 digits long. With this number you can identify the oven and obtain parts.

Check the door switch and the temperature probe. If they are ok, then the problem is likely in the control board. These boards can be rebuilt.

Hi.


The beeping sound is a warning because the oven is in lock condition. The oven is not faulty, and the code is not 5AB, but SAB.

SAB means that the oven is in Sabbath mode, and the control board will be locked for 72 hours with SAB on display.

If power is disconnected a new 72 hours cycle will start.

Push and hold the Clock button for about 10 seconds, that will reset SAB mode.

If that does not work leave the oven connected and off for 72 hours. If the oven does not unlock after three days, then the electronic control may be stuck in SAB mode because it is faulty, in that case contact the manufacturer at the number listed on the owners manual.

Regards.

I had the same problem. I turned the breaker off for the stove for 24 hours. (unplugging will do the same thing, I just couldn't get to the back of the stove.)

I turned the breaker back on and it works fine.

If it's a Whirlpool or Kenmore oven (or one of several other brands that are made by Whirlpool) then this error code means:

F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (ERC)


The system believes that the control board has failed and needs to be replaced.


This page has a list of diagnostic codes by brand and model number. You should check there to look up your particular brand to confirm what I just said.

This stove uses a special switch that turns one way for the large burner and the other way for the smaller burner. I was not aware that this had a seperate simmer burner on it, however. I think you using the wrong term there.

This is not computer controlled--the only computer on it should be the oven switch. I would assume that you need to replace the switch for the dual-size burner. If you take your model number in to Sears, or log onto Sears dot com, you should be able to get to the PARTS DIRECT web site on the computer, and if they ever sold that model you should be able to pull up a parts breakdown with expanded drawing and part numbers and prices. You should be able to buy the part from them. The part should be virtually the same as ANY recent model Frigidaire or Kenmore stove with the same style burner. This should be a very easy repair for you to make yourself, assuming that you know a little about working with electricity--remember, this stove USES 220 VOLTS!

Check out all of the wiring coming into the switch and going from the switch to the burner to be sure that there is not a short!

If you have one of the older smooth surface stoves, where the burners are part of the ceramic top, all bets are off, but anything you bought new in the last half-dozen years, should have a separate burner underneath a glass top, and the repair should be simple. Even with the older stove, it is still likely the switch, and should be no problem.

it sounds like it burnt one of your main wires in the back of range. by turning a knob on you are getting a feed back. turn the power off remove back panel take a visual check of your wiring.