I have the wires undone the locking ring is off nothing I can see that is holding the motor into the pump housing. Can not get the motor to come out of the Magnum Housing. What am I doing wrong or forgot. I see there is a dowel pin on the diagram but it doesn't show were it goes. Can someone hepl? Thanks Dave

ON some water pumps there are bolts under the pulley and on others there are bolts coming in from the back (pump offset to the block) As you have not mentioned the make and engine ,the next best idea is to get a workshop manual and that will show the water pump removal procedure.

Replacing your pool pump motor
Gather the following items.
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
Circuit tester
Dry towel
Step One
First, make sure that the power to the pump is turned OFF. This means turning off the breaker at the panel box and not just the switch at the pump.
Step Two - Removing the motor assembly
Remove the four hex head bolts which hold the motor assembly to the pump/strainer housing (These bolts may not be visible).
Slide the motor assembly out of the pump/strainer housing, exposing the diffuser. Pull the diffuser of of the seal plate, exposing the impeller. (The diffuser may remain in the pump/strainer housing. To remove, pull it straight out of the strainer housing.)
There will be a gasket or O-ring sealing between the motor mounting bracket and the strainer housing. Inspect this thoroughly and replace if necessary. An economical option would be to purchase a Go-Kit which includes the pump shaft seal and all necessary o-rings, gaskets and lubricant for your pump.
Step Three
Now, you can lift up the motor with bracket attached to get to the wiring more easily. There may be a bare copper ground wire attached to the outside of the motor that you will need to disconnect. Remove the cover plate on the back of the motor to get access to the wiring. You should have one green wire that is the ground wire and two other wires that are your leads. The lead wires should be black and white but could be any other color except green. Disconnect these wires (they may be attached to a screw, held down by a nut, or clipped on with a terminal clip).
Step Four
Next, you will need to disconnect the conduit (sleeve covering wires between motor and switch or junction box). This usually means unscrewing the compression nut that is screwed on the adaptor which is screwed to the motor. After unscrewing the conduit compression nut, you can pull out the wires from the motor. If you wish to reuse the adaptor, unscrew it from the motor.
Step Five
Now you must remove the impeller from the motor. Remove the volute covering the impeller if it is there. (Some are screwed on). You will need to go to the opposite end of the motor and pop off the plate covering the shaft. The shaft will either have a slot in it for a screw driver or is flattened to allow you to put an open end box wrench on it. This will allow you to unscrew the impeller. You will unscrew in the direction that is opposite to the direction that the veins point at the outside of the impeller. This is the same direction that the motor will rotate the impeller. This may look backwards but the water comes into the center of the impeller and rolls off the veins away from the impeller by centrifugal force. As you take the impeller off, be sure to note how the pump seal is positioned. We highly recommend replacing the pump seal with the purchase of a Go-Kit when replacing the motor.
Step Six
Now you can see the bolts that hold the motor mounting bracket to the motor. Unbolt these, separating the motor mounting bracket from the motor. You are ready to reverse the process to install the new motor.
Step Seven
Important Notes on Reassembly: DO NOT touch the ceramic faces of the seal; This may cause the seal to burn up and leak. Be sure to tighten the impeller completely. Be sure to wire the new motor for 110V or 220V depending on what you have. This may be a simple switch in the motor or you may need to use the wiring diagram on the motor to set for the proper voltage. (Black tracer means the white wire with a black line corkscrewing around it.) Be sure to put the volute back on, aligning properly. Be sure to reconnect the bare copper ground wire to the ground lug on the new motor. When tightening bolts, alternate tightening a few turns at a time to seat evenly or the pump may leak. Fill the strainer housing with water before starting the motor to prime system and prevent damage to seal and impeller.
More Helpful information on how to replace a pool motor
Shaft Seal installation
Clean and lubricate the impeller hub shaft and pump housing seal recess with a dilute solution of non-granulated liquid-type soap
Gently wipe the black, polished surface of the spring seal assembly with a clean, soft cotton cloth. Press the spring seal assembly onto the impeller hub with black polished surface facing away from impeller.
Gently wipe the polished face of the ceramic seat with a soft cotton cloth. Lubricate the O-ring on the ceramic seat and press it firmly and evenly into the recess of the seal plate with polished side facing out.
Place the seal plate onto the motor mounting bracket aligning the positioning lug and guide.
Replacing the impeller and diffuser
Slide the motor assembly, with the diffuser in place, into pump/strainer housing, being careful not to dislodge the diffuser.
Fasten assembly to housing using the four bolts. (Be sure housing gasket is in place.) Tighten alternately and evenly

The lock ring must be placed over the center of the motor before both the electrical and the seal plate and mounting bracket are assembled. When putting the pump back together the ring needs to be on the pump side of the motor support bracket.



These pumps can be a major pain to put together. If there is enough "leash" on the wiring, I undo the suction and pressure side unions (where the pipes attach to the pump) and stand the pump on its nose so gravity helps the motor ass\'y slide into the pump housing. Use lots of magic lube on the o-ring and inside the housing.



The Northstar pumps are hard on motors. In my experience, three to four years is the common time frame for motor failure. Typically a motor should be expected to last 8-10 years.

It looks like since you have a square flange motor you have either a Tri-Star, a Maxflo II pump or other model by Hayward.. Either way the process is very similar.
Replace the seal, o-rings and gaskets with new ones. Use a teflon based lubricant on all rubber parts, including the seal, but try not to get any on the ceramic (white ring).

1. Shut power off at the breaker.
2. Remove the bolts connecting the motor plate to the pump housing.
3. Back motor assembly out of pump housing making sure that the diffuser and its gasket also come out.
4. Disconnect the electrical supply.
5. Remove the diffuser if still covering the impeller, (there may or may not be screws to remove).
6. Remove impeller ring (if one).
7. Holding the impeller firmly remove the impeller screw. This is in the center of the impeller and has a REVERSE THREAD, meaning turn screw clockwise to loosen.
8. Remove the end cap on the opposite end of the motor and use a 9/16" open end wrench to hold the shaft from turning.
9. Unscrew the impeller CCW.
10. IMPORTANT -- Note how both parts of the seal are oriented to assure the new one is installed likewise, then pull off the seal and seal plate, and discard old seal parts. Also note which way is UP on the seal plate relative to the motor.
11. Reassembly to the new motor is basically reversing the steps above.

NOTES:
The impeller ring (if one) is a ring with a lip around one side. This goes over the center of the installed impeller with the lip facing outward, away from the impeller.



Do not over tighten the bolts! You can damage the pump by doing this. Snug plus about a quarter turn is plenty. In the event you have leaking after startup, open the pump back up and check you housing gasket.

I have had Northstar pumps apart but it has been a while. I found a narrative written by another expert, macdirk, describing how to replace the motor and here it is.

In order to remove the motor, first turn the motor locking ring. This holds the too halves of the pump together. There should be a small tab you have to press in, then grab the round handle, and spin the outer sleeve to unlock. Once you do this the back half of the can be pulled away. This can be very hard sometimes. If the pump and motor still work, you can flip the switch on for a sec or two, and it will pop the back half away from the front half. If the motor is not working then you'll just have to twist, wiggle and pull till you get it apart. After this make sure the power is off, breaker off, etc. and you can remove two screw from the plastic cover on the tail of the motor and disconnect the wires, and remove that half the pump. Next step is to just pull off the diffuser, which may actually have stuck inside the front half the pump. Next remove the impeller, by unscrewing while locking the shaft from the rear with a wrench. if there is a screw in the center of the impeller threaded into motor shaft remove that first. This should be a left handed thread, so unscrew by turning clockwise. The impeller should unscrew counter clockwise like normal. Next remove the seal plate. That should expose 4 bolts holding the motor to the motor mounting plate. Once you remove this you can remove the old seal, clean, and install new seal. you should replace the diffuser and seal plate o-ring as well. Normally I don't recommend a lot of lube on o-rings, but this one can be a ****** to get back together, so use plenty of lube. As I said getting the back half inserted back into the front half is a pain, so you'll just have to work it. Make sure the motor locking ring is forward of the mounting brace that sits on the ground. This can be hard, but if you get it at the right angle it will go raight in place. Make sure the diffeser and/or diffuser o-ring does not slip off into the pump housing when your trying to get it lined up and back into place. There is a notch in the housing and seal plate that have to line up. Sometimes a clamp or ratcheting strap can be used to help pop the two halves back together.
Now all that being said.... it might be worth it to just take the whole pump in to a pump repair shop and let them rebuild it, or put a new motor and seals for ya. At least check the price and consider it. This pump has unions to install it so there is no pipe work required to remove the whole darn thing. Good Luck, and let me know if you have more questions.

I hope this helps.

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

There are none; the large diameter plastic ring catches on the motor adapter plate and secures the motor assembly into the pump housing. You may still have the yellow locking tab in the ring as well. If so, one end of it will lift out of a hole; do so. Spin the tab out of the way then use a blunted paint scrapper, chisel or block of wood and a hammer to tap the ring loose in a standard CCW direction. Once the ring spins free you will need to work the pump end loose. They often stick in the housing so rock it back and forth to eventually break it free.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

In order to remove the motor, first turn the motor locking ring. This holds the too halves of the pump together. There should be a small tab you have to press in, then grab the round handle, and spin the outer sleeve to unlock. Once you do this the back half of the can be pulled away. This can be very hard sometimes. If the pump and motor still work, you can flip the switch on for a sec or two, and it will pop the back half away from the front half. If the motor is not working then you'll just have to twist, wiggle and pull till you get it apart. After this make sure the power is off, breaker off, etc. and you can remove two screw from the plastic cover on the tail of the motor and disconnect the wires, and remove that half the pump. Next step is to just pull off the diffuser, which may actually have stuck inside the front half the pump. Next remove the impeller, by unscrewing while locking the shaft from the rear with a wrench. if there is a screw in the center of the impeller threaded into motor shaft remove that first. This should be a left handed thread, so unscrew by turning clockwise. The impeller should unscrew counter clockwise like normal. Next remove the seal plate. That should expose 4 bolts holding the motor to the motor mounting plate. Once you remove this you can remove the old seal, clean, and install new seal. you should replace the diffuser and seal plate o-ring as well. Normally I don't recommend a lot of lube on o-rings, but this one can be a bugger to get back together, so use plenty of lube. As I said getting the back half inserted back into the front half is a pain, so you'll just have to work it. Make sure the motor locking ring is forward of the mounting brace that sits on the ground. This can be hard, but if you get it at the right angle it will go raight in place. Make sure the diffeser and/or diffuser o-ring does not slip off into the pump housing when your trying to get it lined up and back into place. There is a notch in the housing and seal plate that have to line up. Sometimes a clamp or ratcheting strap can be used to help pop the two halves back together.
Now all that being said.... it might be worth it to just take the whole pump in to a pump repair shop and let them rebuild it, or put a new motor and seals for ya. At least check the price and consider it. This pump has unions to install it so there is no pipe work required to remove the whole darn thing. Good Luck, and let me know if you have more questions.

The impeller is threaded onto the end of the motor shaft and the housing (pump body) is attached to the motor with the same bolts that hold the rear cover on the motor they run all the way through on most pumps.

If the motor still runs at all start the pump with the lock off and it will pop out. If not use some liquid soap and a small straw like a capalery tube on wd. Any thing small enough to fit through the space you can get when you pull the seal plate back, their is an inner plate with an "O" ring and you need to get the soap to that then let it sit for half hour or so and go back to the side to side prying when the soap and the "O" ring come together it will slide right out.

Super pumps are very easy. If it is a northstar it is more difficult. Super pump. You will need 1 motor, 1 pump seal, 1 diffuser gasket, 1 housing gasket. turn off breaker, disconnect wires -noting whether it is 110 or 220 volts- , unscrew four bolts on back of pump housing (shaft side of motor), pull out motor with rear housing and diffuser (sometimes diffuser sticks inside), on wire side of motor hold shaft with wrench (flathead in some cases, but it is harder), unscrew impeller counter clockwise (like normal screw - you will nee a big pair of channel locks or a strap wrench), there are two pieces of the back housing and once the impailer is off you can remove the half that is closest to the end of the shaft to reveal four more screws, unscrew those four screws. screw back part of rear housing onto new motor. Install new pump seal to front part of rear housing and impeller, slide on front part of rear housing and then screw on impeller while holding shaft on wire side with wrench (only hand tight), replace housing gasket, replace diffuser gasket, slide into front housing and screw in four bolts. If electrical was 110 you will need to move the jumper on the wire end..if it was 220 then just hook kup wires...doesnt matter which is which as long as green or bare goes to the ground screw.