Someone left the door open on the freezer and all the meat went to waste. The problem I'm having is the freezer only gets cold and will not freeze anything? I have no Manuel, and the unit is only 1-1.5years old.

Is the compressor running? If not - the timer could be stuck in defrost mode. If it is ruinning, then the freezer coil should be cold. If it is choked with frost & ice - then the defrost heater isn't getting powered (bad timer or defrost terminator - or is getting powered but has burned out.

You should allow the ice and frost to melt completely before turning back on again. Typically ice and frost don't build up so bad in a few days time to cause the temperature rise you're describing If getting cold - the compressor and refrigerant is likely OK, if not the defrost circuit is suspect. If compressor running but not getting cold - a refrigerant leak / charge level may be causing the problem.

yes it must be shut off and completely defrosted.with doors left open it usually takes about 2 days. what happened if you look at the back wall in the freezer from the inside you will see a bunch of ice and there is more behind that panel you are looking at. it froze up the coils so that no air will get through them. good luck rich

keep the door closed by all means any small opening can leave the freezer start to defrost slowly without you knowing it

You will need to turn the unit off and let it completely unthaw. There is frost that builds up in the ducts and behind the panels when the door is left open that will cause the unit to not cool or circulate where needed.

my maytag freezer not wotking correctly, the top shelf not cold, I bought a meat and tryed to put it on the top shelf, unfortunately, my meat went to the garbage and just the botttom shelf takes time to freeze, better than the top shelf
any help ?

check the cold deflector door for proper operation, then check the cold control itself as it may be defective

My advice to you is to transfer the meat to another place (preferably somewhere cold, for both the sake of the meat, and your freezer), let the compressor cool down, and then try starting the freezer. If it does start (it should), let it run until it has pulled the box down to 0 F. Then add the meat back in. Note at the beginning I told you to store the meat somewhere cold. It can be quite an overloading situation for the freezer, not only to have to pull itself down to such a cold temp, but when you add a bunch of "warm" meat to the appliance it is just to much of a load for it to handle. Hope this helps

You need to check the temp in the freezer to make sure it's down to around 10 degrees. The alarm will go off much above that.

This will not cause a freon leak and it is possible that the door was left open, but to be certain that you don't have a defrost issue, follow the guide below to diagnose any problems. Also the warm walls are normal during compressor run times.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_3.asp
If your freezer cools but doesn't get cold enough, it may have a problem in one of several areas. To better understand the proper operation of a freezer, read about freezers in the How Things Work section of our website.

In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel inside your freezer. But if you see any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling, or floor of your freezer, it's a sure sign of frost build-up. And that's a sign of a problem with the self-defrosting system.

Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours. But if a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There's still some cooling because the coils are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is quite limited and the freezer isn't as cold as it needs to be.

An easy (though often inconvenient) test of whether the problem is with the self-defrosting system is to remove all of the perishable food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to Off, and leave the door open for 24 to 48 hours. (Keep several towels handy in case the melting frost and ice overflows the drip pan). This "manually" defrosts the freezer. When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the freezer then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of these components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer. To test this, manually advance to the defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost cycle in about 45 minutes.
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (or bi-metal switch). This thermostat allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees (depending on its design). This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on.
  
  
• The defrost heater. You can test this for continuity using an electrical meter.

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Check and clean the air cooled condenser for dust and dirt. Check and make sure the fan in back, on the bottom behind a removable panel, is operating. After cleaning the condenser replace the panel.
Also you stated there is no frost anywhere. Did you check the back wall of the freezer for frost buildup. If not check it and if there is frost there your defrost system is not working and the frost has stopped air circulation.