I just did a search, and I learned that your heater has two settings-- two different levels of heatT
Power
1,500 - 1,000 Watt
So-- likely position #1 will be 1,000 watts, and #2 will be the greater number: 1,500 watts.
Just doing the Math, the 1,000 watt setting will use 2/3rds of the amount of electricity, (and thus put out 1/3rd less heat!)-- compared with the 1,500 watt setting.
If you have to run this heater on an extension cord (NOT RECOMMENDED I might add!)-- the lower wattage would be the safer, and more efficient setting.
I hope this helps-
Mack B
Dont see a model # or make but here some tips
You really need a volt / ohm meter to check for Continuity & Volts
Its well worth the investment... $15.00 bucks give or take a few
I would check to see if you have 220v to back of dryer where the cord mounts to dryer,
If dryer is getting only 1 leg 110 volts instead of the 220 will it not heat.
Check themostates & heater for Continuity... Most models, Now have a..
Hi-limit fuse that need to be checked for Continuity and replaced if bad
if you dont have a ohm meter you can hook the wires together
with a small piece of wire and by pass the themostates and hi limit fuse to see if thats the problem or not
I would check temp out of dryer should be 140 - 160
Is your cycling themostate good, cutting off when suppose too? and Hi limit on burner good?
THe cycling themostate control drum temp, hi limit on heater is a back up and the hi limit fuse on burner backs up it all
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