I am replacing the heating element, and want to hook it back up the right way

Hi Eddie. It sounds like a bad heating element. This is easily replaced and not too expensive at about $60 for a new heating element. First lets verify the heating element is bad. Follows these steps:
1. Find the 50 amp breaker to your oven in your electrical panel and turn the power off. Just to ensure your safety also unplug it from the wall (incase that pesky neighbor wants to see you break dance and decides to turn the breaker back on while you are working on the oven!)
2. Pull stove away from wall or out so that you can access the back panel.
3. Remove the back panel and look through the insulation on the lower 1/3rd of the oven to find the ends and connections to your heating element. There should be one wire on each side of it secured by a screw or slide on connector. At this time you only need to remove the wire on one side of the element. This is for testing and verification purposes.
4. After removing one end of the wire take a multimeter or any continuity tester and put one probe on each end of the heating element connection on the element itself. Right where the wire connects from the one side you removed, and you can place the other lead right on the connection/connector metal part of the element connector. If the heating element is bad as I suspect, you will see that there is an "Open Line" condition or zero continuity which means infinite ohms on an ohm meter. If the element is good you will have continuity and your meter will indicate 20-40 ohms. If you did not damage any electronic controls when the element blew, you will be good to go with a cheap element replacement. Otherwise you may have damaged electronic controls (control board) as well. Check out this link as it will have great information and Youtube videos to show you how to test and replace this element. Good Luck!
http://www.appliance411.com/faq/test-element.shtml
Regards,

Randy

Appliance411 FAQ Testing Range Stove Oven Cooktop Element

Hello.

When the dryer just isn't getting your clothes dry anymore, the culprit is usually the heating element. The dryer part may look intimidating, but you can replace the heating element.

Step by step instructions

TOOLS NEEDED New heating element,Screwdriver, Needle-nose pliers.

1 Unplug the dryer from the wall before starting. Find the dryer heating element cabinet. For most dryers this is located in the back, however it can be in the front. Find the compartment on the dryer.
2 Remove the screws or clips to get into the compartment to expose the heating element and wires. Use a needlenose pliers to carefully remove the element wires.
3 Detach the can shaped object that may cover the heating element. Tip the can backward to slip it off the hooks holding it in place. Some models place the heating element with the can, while others provide easier access to it.
4 Unscrew the screws holding the element in place and pull it out.
5 Put the new element in place, and replace the screws to secure it in the dryer. Put the can back in place and connect the element wires before putting on the cabinet cover.
6 Run the dryer on fluff with no heat, and go outside to make sure enough air is getting through the vent system.
7 Break the new heating element in by running your dryer on high heat for 10 minutes without any clothes in the dryer. This cleans oily residue off the element and keep the clothes from getting smoky.

Thanks.

you may have a bad grand or the element is not heating

recheck heating element may have hooked up wrong or didnt plug something in right

Mine was doing the same thing. Took it apart and found that the white wire which hooked up from the circuit board to the heating element had burnt which broke the connection...hence no heat....replaced burnt wire and resoldered to heating element...put it back together and voila I have heat once more....still doesn't solve why the wire fried though....

First ck and make sure you have 220 volts to the dryer. It will run on 110v if one side of the breaker is bad. The other culprits are a limit switch heating element or thermal fuse. If you have 220 volts and the dryer runs just does not heat first turn off the power to the dryer and unplug the dryer from the outlet. Pull the dryer out and remove the lower back panel it is held on by several 5/16 hex screws. (not the back plate on the switch panel) Remove the back and your heater is on the lower right hand side and is inside an metal shell. The thermal limit is also on the metal shell and will have several wires running to it. And if you trace the wires from the element and this thermal limit it will go to the thermal fuse it is on the lower back slightly to the right of the dryer and has two wires run to it and is about the size of a dime or smaller. Unplug the two wires from the termal fuse and hook them together with a papper clip or just tape them together make sure it doesn't touch metal. (this will short it out) and then plug up the dryer and try it to see if it heats you do not need to hook up the vent. (make sure not to touch the back of the dryer and especially any exsposed wires. If it heats up your thermal fuse is bad replace it. If it does not you should check your heating element first unplug the dryer and reattach the wires to the thermal fuse. Then the heating element metal shell should be removed. First unplug the wires to the heating element and thermal limit switch and mark them so you know where they go. Next remove the screw at the top of the metal shell pickup and pull back on the shell to disengage it from the dryer. You can then remove it and inside is the heating element it is attached to the shell with 5/16 hex screws. Remove the screws and pull the heating element out of the bottom of the metal shell. Look closely and you should see the heating element break. The element is a coiled wire and when it heats up the wire actually grows in length and when it is off it cools and shrinks this causes fatique and the wire breaks over time. If the wire is broke replace the element. Look very closely use a pencil to move the wire slightly it is sometimes very hard to see the break. If broken replace the element and make sure not to touch the new element with your fingers this can case premature hot spots which causes the element to fail prematurely. If the wire is not broken then the thermal limit attached to the metal shell that holds the heating element is bad. Before doing any of the above you should look at all the wires in the back of the dryer and look for burnt or broken wires replace or repair them and check the dryer before any other repairs should be entertained. Before replaceing the back on the dryer clean all of the lint out of the back of the dryer and out of the dryer vent. This is very good insureance for the future of your dryer. Good Luck and I hope this is useful.

first you nead to unplug the dryer,next you nead to remove the vent hose,next you nead to remove the back panal and the power cord cover,on the left side you will see the heater housing,at the bottom you will see the heating element,there are four wires,the two at the bottom are hooked to the element,you nead to pull them off,the other two wires are hooked to the high limit switch,you nead to pull them off,next there are two 1/4"screws,one on each side off the heating element,remove them,now pull out on the bottom of element,with element removed,remove the high limit switch from old element and put it on the new element,take new element and put it back in the heater housing and replace the two 1/4" screws,you will see that the two wires that go to the element are biger than the two going to the high limit switch,put the two wires to the element,now replace the two wires to the high limit switch,replace the back panal and the power cord cover,replace the vent hose,plug power cord in and check element out.

Yes, hook it up, but before you do that Vacuumn every piece of lint out of the cabinet. Also check TCO and check the thermostats for continuity. They should all read zero ohms.If one of them is open, replace it.

Also use your ohmmeter to check the heating element, It should not show an open condition.

For these two items ther is no order for the connections. you can just hook them back up.
David

A couple of things to check.look inside the unit,remove the screens and on the right side you should see a float make sure there are no holes in it or water.next look in the box where the heating element is,you should see a round black disk that is above the element (this is the high limit).there is a little button in the middle press it in and see if you hear a click.The way the heat cycle works on this unit is when you first turn the unit on it fills, the water level brings the float up and hits that little metal probe which is a switch, the power goes through that then through the high limit, the power then continues to energize the contactor which then pulls in sending the voltage to the heater.