The locks work fine when there's no gear loaded, but when i put my boards onto the rack the locks won't turn. any suggestions?

E990 0000 When the locking Handle for the Process Assembly is turned to the locked position it re-positions a rack that opens the Waste Toner Shutters. When the rack is in the correct position there is a cutout in the rack that unblocks PS12, if the sensor remains blocked an E990 0000 will be generated.

Remove the Hopper Drive Assembly and the Hopper Assembly .
With those items removed you will see a white nylon gear plate with 2 locking screws. Loosen the locking screws and position the gear plate so that when the handle is in the locked position, the cutout in the rack unblocks PS 12.

The first thing to do is check the brake lights, it they are not working the park lock system will not release the shifter.

Hi Aldene, Your vehicle seems too young to have a problem with a worn key so I suggest that the problem was related to the position of the steering wheel and the tongue of the locking mechanism. Sometimes when the lock engages it is under the load of the weight of the front wheels, if they are not in the straight ahead position. A small movement of the steering wheel is usually enough to release the steering lock. Regards John

Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

if the shifter is moving then it is probably your trans. but if the shifter is not moving from the park possition (if it is an automatic) check to see if brake lights are coming on if not check fuse for brake lights,it also controls your shift lock.try turning key to possition before lights come on dash board and moving shifter into nuetral pos. then start car and put into gear give that a try, if it does the shift lock isn`t working.

The transmission solenoids are not working properly. Probably requires a transmission rebuild.
I don't think it's in the ground strap or wiring.
It's an internal problem with the transmission.

You can use a cable/lock and run it through the bike frame and then the slots on the rack (assuming it has slots which most do) when you leave it parked. If you get along enough cable then you can even use this to lock your bike as well. The only other solution is to use 1 way bolts to tighten the rack to the seatpost....however, as teh name implies be aware that these can only be removed by drilling them out. good luck

continuous clicking could be a few gear-related issues:

-if the pinion gear is slipping against the rack for the disc-load mechanism, you can try to re-align the rack (hopefully it was just forced out of place and can be clicked back). i would suspect this if the noise is relatively quiet and very fast.

-if something is jamming the load mechanism, like the rack is stuck, the pinion gear may be clicking over the teeth of the rack. i would suspect this if the noise is loud and slower.

If the wii is under warrenty i suggest you take it in!!! if not have a repair centre fix it. it will need a new drive.

continuous clicking could be a few gear-related issues:

-if the pinion gear is slipping against the rack for the disc-load mechanism, you can try to re-align the rack (hopefully it was just forced out of place and can be clicked back). i would suspect this if the noise is relatively quiet and very fast.

-if something is jamming the load mechanism, like the rack is stuck, the pinion gear may be clicking over the teeth of the rack. i would suspect this if the noise is loud and slower.
This is a common defect with Wii's and seems to be getting worse. I suggest you either take it in for warrenty if its covered or have some one replace the drive for you.

continuous clicking could be a few gear-related issues: -if the pinion gear is slipping against the rack for the disc-load mechanism, you can try to re-align the rack (hopefully it was just forced out of place and can be clicked back). i would suspect this if the noise is relatively quiet and very fast. -if something is jamming the load mechanism, like the rack is stuck, the pinion gear may be clicking over the teeth of the rack. i would suspect this if the noise is loud and slower. Either way, you'd probably need to open the console. )=.