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Just to clarify before I try to fix this again. When I open the freezer door the receiver light blinks. When I close the transmitter door the red light on the receiver should stay on solid or off solid? Do I have to hold the light switch closed as well?
The light does not stay on steady. It continues flashing until I hold down the door switch then it goes out entirely.
How do I know if it is the sender or receiver or do both have to be replaced?The light does not stay on steady. It continues flashing until I hold down the door switch then it goes out entirely.
How do I know if it is the sender or receiver or do both have to be replaced?
Sorry it took so long for me to rate this but I have not been able to implement the recommended solution until today. It looks like this worked for my friend's Mom who was having the problem. Thanks for the insight in resolving this.
PamCatriver,
Sorry it took so long for me to rate this but I have not been able to implement the recommended solution until today. It looks like this worked for my friend's Mom who was having the problem. Thanks for the insight in resolving this.
Pam
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No, when you open the freezer door the right side light will flash 2 times with a pause repeatedly. Then when you hold the left side flapper down it will stay lit. In other words, it will be on steady. You do not have to have the door switch closed. Catriver.
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Three blinking lights & door won't close
by Candi
(Winston-Salem, NC)
Garage door will not open and close with remotes. Three blinking lights occur when we try to close door. What does this mean? It is a Linear unit.
I will assume you mean that your garage door will open with your remote but will not close. It should close if you press and hold the wall control button until the door is fully closed.
If that is the case, the 3 blinking lights indicate that your garage door's infrared safety beams are not properly aligned.
1) Check that the operator has power. The green lights on the sender and receiver should be lit.
2) If the receiver's green light is on, but the red light is off, the receiver has power but is not detecting the infrared beam from the sender. The red light might flash when the beam is partially detected. This can be caused by
mis-alignment or something blocking the beam.
Adjust the safety beam sender and receiver while watching the receiver's red light (stay out of the beam while aligning it). When the red light stays on, the beam is aligned and your garage door should operate normally.
i see no make and model # for your unit for i would check the internet for service manual, if the unit works when you power the solenoid manually than there is a censor or driver output transistor to the solenoid is defective and you will require a manual to service this problem, this problem location is on the control board or censor input to the board
Looking at your wiring diagram, the icemaker is wired through the light switch. So when you open the door it stops power to the icemaker and the noise stops,push the light switch and it starts back up again.
A lot of times the motor, or module will go bad in the icemaker causing somewhat of a grinding noise like it is trying to do something but cant. 99% of the time it is best to change the whole icemaker to avoid further issues but sometimes you can just change the module depending on the condition of the rest of the icemaker.
If the icemaker is still in the refrig ,(easily removed with 1 screw ) pour about 2/3 cup of water into it . Also check the black fill hose which is above the icemaker fill cup , to see if it is frozen closed . If the icemaker dumps the cubes , and doesn't refill with water , replace the water inlet valve behind the refrig . If it doesnt dump the ice , replace the icemaker . My parts site is down , or I would give you part numbers for the water inlet valve and the complete icemaker .
The laser light should flash 2 times , pause , flash 2 times etc , if working correctly . If the laser light is not on , then the icemaker is in the harvest mode . If it stays off , icemaker is bad . If you close the flap on the left side of the freezer , the light should go off , until you release the flap . If these factors are ok , then the optics are ok .
The general rule is to put 2/3 cup of water into icemaker , and if it dumps , but doesn't fill , replace the water inlet valve . If it doesn't dump , replace the icemaker Pt # 2198597 . Check the black fill tube above the icemaker fill cup , to see if it is clogged with ice . The fill line runs from the back of the refrig , between the liner and cabinet ( unaccessable ) , and down to the icemaker . Some of this model refrig , come with a coupling on the back , which you can disconnect and blow thru , to see if it is clear to the icemaker . If you do not have a coupling , you may want to aquire one Pt # 4211117 , in case this happens again , also , turn your freezer control down slightly , it will be a quick troubleshoot step . It sounds like the optics are ok , but I'll still give you the information .
Open the freezer door and if you get 2 pulses followed by a pause repeatedly , press in on the left side flapper door and the optic should stay on steadily . If you still get the 2 pulse and pause , then the optics are faulty . If you get no light , the icemaker is in the harvest mode ,( trying to dump ice ) . If the icemaker arm is in the normal position and no light , the optics are faulty . When the optics are faulty , replace both sides , the emiter board and reciever board . They come togather in a kit Pt # 4389102 .
Pour about 1/2 cup of water into icemaker . Squeeze the black fill tub which is above the icemaker cup . If ice apears to be in it , this indicates that the weter valve is not completely closing , letting a drip ocasionally go thru and freezing inside the tube , ( water valve bad ) . that will be a different solution . If the icemaker dumps the cubes after freezing . and black tube is not frozen , replace the water inlet valve . If the icemaker does not dump the ice after frozen , replace the icemaker ( only 1 screw holds the icemaker in , located on rear portion on right , faceing down . Also check the icemaker rake , which should be about the 2:30 position . To thaw out the black tube (which runs thru the top of the refrig ) a 1/4 push on connector will be needed . Remove the icemaker and use a hairdryer aimed up into the hole . Cut the tubing to the fill tub behind the fridge about 9 inches from where it enters the top of the fridge . This will let warm air inside the top fill line to help thaw . Ocassionally blow thru the 9 inch tube until you can blow thru it . May take a day or 2 , depending how frozen the line is . Once air will go thru , install the push on connector to couple the cut lines back togather .
The blinking red light on the right side , is the receiver for the electric eye for cutting off the icemaker when the door bin is full , This blinking is normal . 2 blinks ...pause...2 blinks..etc .
Do not replace the filter if water flow is good thru the dispensor .
I have a Kenmore Elite Trio and the freezer was making a
frog sound. I found the solution.
My model number is 596.75523400.The sound will stop when the freezer is
opened.It will stop again when the
freezer drawer is open and the light switch is pressed to turn off the
light.The ice drawer was full but it
had stopped making ice.
Here is the fix in less than 10 minutes using only a
screwdriver.
Take
out the two freezer baskets
Remove
the freezer door from the two slide tracks.
Unplug
the icemaker electric connection at the back wall.Depress the clips on the side of the
plug and wiggle it loose.
There
are 3 screws that attach the icemaker to the left freezer wall.Remove the lower screw and unscrew the
top two about ½ way out.
Slide
the icemaker up so the slots slip over the 2 screws.
Put
the icemaker in the sink and run a bit of water on the frozen cubes until
they fall out.
Take
the screwdriver and check the water inlet hose/pipe for ice that obstructs
the flow of water into the ice maker.
Re-mount
using the 3 screws and plug in the electric connector. Make certain the water inlet tube is
positioned thru the retaining hole before you remount the screws.
The light does not stay on steady. It continues flashing until I hold down the door switch then it goes out entirely.
How do I know if it is the sender or receiver or do both have to be replaced?
Catriver,
Sorry it took so long for me to rate this but I have not been able to implement the recommended solution until today. It looks like this worked for my friend's Mom who was having the problem. Thanks for the insight in resolving this.
Pam
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