My iron leaks out of the back end so I don't get any steam at the front of the iron.
SOURCE: Euro Pro 1005 ironing Cover and Part.
Hello, rslarve,
Okay, here are a couple of links that should be helpful:
Euro Pro Replacement Cover LC and Pad for EP1010 / 1005
This will link you directly to the purchase page for the ironing cover you want. Sorry, but after extensive searching, it's the only one I could find, so I suggest you get two while the getting is good!
Customer Support for Sharkvac Products - sharkvac.com
This link will take you to a web page that will allow you to send the manufacturer an email explaining the part you need. Please, before you send the email, try your best to find your manual and see if there is a part number listed for the part you want. If not, and the old part is available (like—if you have a broken one), check it over thoroughly (perhaps using a small flashlight and magnifying glass to make sure you don't miss it) for any numbers that might be stamped, embossed, or etched into it. Even if they are not part numbers, they may help the manufacturer to locate the one you need. No matter what, send them as much information as you possibly can in order to help them be able to help you—the easier you make it on them, the more likely you are to get satisfactory results.
Finally, here is a toll-free number for the manufacturer's tech-support line: the same "homework" applies before you call it:
1-800-798-7398. Hours are Monday through Saturday from 9:00am to 6:00pm Eastern Standard Time.
I hope this helps!
Ken
SOURCE: Shark Euro Pro Iron turns
I was having the exact same problem. It happened infrequently, then over time it got worse. I would jiggle the cable to get it to turn back on again, and that worked for about six months. Eventually the iron was unusable, I had to hold the cable in one spot and it would go on for about 30 seconds, then die out.
I decided to go on a little adventure inside the iron to see what the problem was. I was convinced the cable was frayed on the inside from rotating so much. After unscrewing the bottom, I found there was plenty of rust inside the iron, which had gotten all over the contact points from the AC cable from the wall connects to the heating element. If I moved the cable back and forth, I could hear it sparking and get a good connection.
It doesn't appear that the rust was from water leakage inside the iron, but rather steam produced while ironing. After cutting the wires and soldering the connection, the iron works fine again. It took about 1/2 hour to do from start to finish.
I would recommend getting a different brand, it only took mine a year from purchase date to fail.
SOURCE: Handle on iron gets too
I purchased a silicone heat protector for a pot handle and sewed it together with dental floss around the iron handle
SOURCE: water leaks from bottom of iron while ironing help
you probably have a crack in the holding tank
SOURCE: shark euro pro x
We fixed ours today. Take the iron plate off (bottom of the iron shaped like a triangle). You are looking for a thermal fuse (or thermal-protector fuse) pictured here for less than $2 at Radio Shack(http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102788&CAWELAID=107599331). You will need needlenose pliers to gently remove the old fuse and the wire cutters to trim the long wires to the same length as the old fuse (less than 1/2"). Also, since the old fuse was 240 C and we only could find a 228 C replacement - we cannot use the iron at the same high temp. So we limited the dial by marking out a portion of the dial. The iron stopped working after I kept the iron on high for an extended period of time. My electrician husband explained that I over heated the iron - breaking the fuse. Not time I'll turn the iron off or down when I'm not using it. This was so easy, I'm going to check out our other broken irons.
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