I strike a note and the sustain drops out as if i were turning the amp off. this happened after i flipped the 25w/50w switch in the back. when i hit a note softley is doesnt do anything. when i hit it harder, its strait fuzz and dies off. when i hit it really hard it comes out full and then fades to nothing quickly.
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This Digital Keyboard does not come with a pedal unit. • You can use the PEDAL1 jack to connect an optional (SP-3, SP-20) sustain pedal. You can use the.
If electronic trace the cable back to make sure connection is secure. Sometimes there is a button that turns sustain off, check control panel to make sure it is switched on. If piano is acoustic take off front panel beneath pedal board to make sure wooden rod is still connected.
Is this the correct sustain pedal for this unit? It sounds like it should be a momentary button type. I would look into that. Some have a push to work type of switch and some use momentary. If it is, I would open that pedal and clean the switch with contact cleaner, as it appears to be sticking.
There is something resonating with that note frquency. Often the grille or wiring inside will rattle at certain frequencies. You need a sustained source of these frequencies to find what is causing the noise.
This is confusing... you say "the sustain works when you disconnect the cord"? How can that happen? and doesn't work when it is plugged in.
MOST sustain pedal problems are due to people using a different pedal than the keyboard is designed to use. It is very common that someone tries to use a Roland sustain pedal on a Yamaha and oof course it doesn't work because the Roland pedal is normally closed and Yamaha usually requires a normally open contact.
A FEW keyboards now check the state of the pedal input when power is first turned on and configure the pedal polarity accordingly. For these keyboards, make sure the pedal is plugged in before power is turned on.
For the MOST PART the lamp is NOT the primary path for the speaker current, the POLYFUSE is and is a low resistance until it is overdriven.
The bulb is a 12 volt bulb and is nominally 2.1 amps when used on 12.8 volts.
If this is in regards to the other problem mentioning 32 watts and 12.8 volts... this bulb is NOT 32 Watts, it is 32 CP or 32 Candlepower which is NOT Watts in general. The lamp is actually around 27 Watts when run at its ratings.
It is important to realize that the lamp and the resistor are there ONLY as a "soft" path when the POLYFUSE opens due to overcurrent. When the polyfuse cools, the lamp and resistors are effectively shorted by the Polyfuse and most of the current again flows through the polyfuse..
Usually that indicates that the polarity of the jack for the sustain pedal has been switched or someone has substituted another pedal with the wrong polarity. Try looking in the manual to see if that is an editable parameter for people who might not be able to obtain an original pedal. You may have to initialize the keyboard which is on page viii of the manual. The jacks on the back for footswitches are on page 1 and 2. The footswitch settings are on page 9. I found the manual here:http://soundprogramming.net/manuals/Ensoniq_KT-76_KT-88_Manual.pdf I don't know if you have the single footswitch or the optional stereo footswitch. If it is the single footswitch, the default setting should work correctly if it is the original SW-2 or SW-6 pedal switches. If it is the optional SW-10, the FTswL setting should be Unused. Hope this helps.
What I figured out is that when i turn on the keyboard, if i hold down the pedal by accident, it will work in reverse. I dont know if this is what you mean. If it is, just dont touch the pedal when you turn it on. If it isn't, try to return the pedal. I dropped one, it had this problem, and they gave me a new one. Your cord for it might have been bent (?). Also, turn the keyboard on with the pedal already plugged in. It's not made to be plugged in while it's on. Hope this helps. - Matthew
Not if its like mine, its a completecircuit vs.incomplete circuit problems.
I had the exact same problem with my Casio keyboard and a Yamaha sustain pedal I bought.
I'm not an electrical genius, but I was able to get it to work by opening it up and doing a little modification. Of course I first just tried switching the white wire with the black one but that didn't change anything at all when I tried it. It turns out the Casio wants the circuit completed to sustain, and broken for no sustain, which is the opposite of what the Yamaha pedal does.
I opened it up and mine had three three flat metal strips let's call them Top, Middle and Bottom. The Middle and Bottom ones were joined together on the right side, and the Middle and Top ones were touching on the left side when the pedal was not pressed. These seperated when the pedal was pressed, thereby breaking the circuit because the wires were on the top plate and on the joined Middle/Bottom plate.
So to flip it I: 1. Unsoldered the Bottom wire 2. Cut apart the Bottom and Middle plates on the right. 3. Bent the Middle plate on the right to touch the Top plate instead and soldered those together. 4. Soldered the Bottom wire back on.
That's it! Once I figured it out, it took only a few minutes to fix.
Good luck!
Paul
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