My Inglis dryer, Model IED4400SQ0, runs with no heat. I've done some troubleshooting, but am stumped. It is not breaker (getting 240 volts in), not thermal fuse on vent duct. Actually, I think I narrowed it down to the two wires on the base of the heating coil - one reads 120 volts while the other reads 0 - just don't know what to do next.

Check your thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out fuse, two different fuses that can cause a dryer to run and not heat when open, or some dryers will not start when one of these has gotten too hot and opened....Usually caused by venting restriction of too much lint, common problem...........

A open operating thermostat or the high limit being open are also possible........;.

The other checks are live voltage checks, timer contacts, wiring, temp and internal motor switch......schematic is probably in back of control panel........
Takes some reading of a wiring diagram, understanding how to split the circuit ............Not for beginners.............Hope this helps...........do not forget to unplug dryer when doing anything on unit besides live voltage checks on circuits,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Did you pull the element out and test it? I think it is your heating element. Visually inspecting is never enough. Just hook it up to high voltage independently to ensure it heats. It will turn red hot.

Well it is not the fuse because it still runs just no heat. I would first try to reset the breaker and make sure 240 volts is getting to the dryer. Dryer motors work on 120 volts. The heater needs 240 to opperate. Sometimes the breaker will trip on the high load heat side or simply wear out. If that is good then you must check the element, To do so you need to remove the drum. You start by raising the top then getting the front off; then you take the belt idler loose and yank out the drum. The heater element is on the back wall of the dryer.
My video:


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

first make sure theres 240 volts at the dryer plug in ,if not then try resetting your circuit breaker ( or fuses ) if its electrically heated (not by gas) and is plugged into a 240 volt receptacle as even though the breaker may not show its tripped by the little orange window on the breaker it can lose one phase of power ( 120 volts) and still turn but it needs both phases to operate the 240 volt heating element,if you lose one leg of power ( 120 volts ) either the drum will turn or the timer will run (but not both ) because each of these parts only operate on 120 volts or one leg of the 240 volts

Heat circuit also runs through timer and motor

Make sure you have 240 going into the dryer. If one side of the breaker is tripped it is posible for the dryer to run because the motor runs on 120 volts ac. The heat uses 240 volts. Next check the heavy red wire coming out of the timer. Remove it from the timer and attach a lead from an ohm meter to that leg on the timer. See if you can get a reading from any other leg on that timer. Move the dil to various spots on the timer and keep checking for continuity. If you cannot get a reading from that terminal to any other terminal on the dryer then you have a bad timer.
I did a few homemade movies today and posted them on my youtube channel:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbez7kjzNic&list=UUKBjalPycKRmo4Mz9vRsydg&index=3&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoVmPvUG_7o&list=UUKBjalPycKRmo4Mz9vRsydg&index=2&feature=plcp

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The list of suspects usually invovles the heating element, the limit mounted on the heating element, the circuit breaker. The motor is a 120 volt one but the heater needs 240 volts. If the breaker is partially tripped the dryer could run but havee no heat. If the dryer cord id partially out of the recepticle the heat will not work. Make sure the dryer is getting 240 volts. Videos and more are here on my page

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Go to any Appliance parts store or type in parts for your model in search on the internet.

Older fuse panels would have two fuses, one provides power from each 120 volt leg in the panel, therefore providing 240 volts for the heater coil. The motor in the dryer only requires 120 volts, so it may possibly still run if it is on the side with a good fuse. In newer panels that have circuit breakers, you may only have a single handle, but the breaker is a 240 volt breaker (which controls both 120 volt feeds at the same time). You will likely notice that this and all other breakers that are 240 volts are twice the width of a single 120 volt breaker. There is no "second fuse" for you to check, as the circuit breaker takes the place of both fuses in an older style panel.

If you are able to confirm that you have good power at the power connection at the back of the dryer (120 volts between black and white, 120 volts between red and white, 240 volts between red and black wires), then that typically only leaves the heater coil itself or the timer to check. Check continuity on the heater coil first, and visually inspect it for a broken or shorted coil. It is usually the culprit.

If the coil checks ok, carefully check the voltage at the terminals that feed power to the coil. Depending on the model, there may also be a thermal fuse or thermostat that is inline with the power feed to the coil itself. Check this to make sure that it has continuity as well.

I hope this helps you with your repair troubleshooting. Good luck!

You really need a volt / ohm meter to check for Continuity & Volts

Its well worth the investment... $15.00 bucks give or take a few

I would check to see if you have 220v to back of dryer where the cord mounts to dryer,

If dryer is getting only 1 leg 110 volts instead of the 220 will it not heat.

Check themostates & heater for Continuity... Most models, Now have a.. Hi-limit fuses that need to be checked for Continuity