I have a Mazda Midge 1998 whick was damaging the left CV joint regularly. After replacement of all suspension parts I diagnosed the problem to the gearbox. Drive and all the load is only on the left drive shaft. I checked this by lifting both front wheels and the right drive is slipping in both forward and reverse. Is this a correct diagnosis? What will need to be replaced in the gearbox?

possible reasons for this issue:

CV Joint Issues: The clicking sound during turns could be related to the constant velocity (CV) joints. These joints allow the wheels to transfer power from the transmission to the wheels while maintaining flexibility during steering. If a CV joint is worn or damaged, it can produce clicking sounds. Inspect the CV joints for any signs of wear, such as torn boots or visible damage.

Wheel Bearing Problems: Faulty wheel bearings can also cause clicking noises during turns. A worn-out wheel bearing may produce a clicking or grinding sound. Check for any play or looseness in the wheel when jacked up. If you notice excessive play, it's likely that the wheel bearing needs replacement.

Suspension Components: Inspect the suspension components on the driver's side. Loose or worn-out components, such as control arms, bushings, or sway bar links, can create clicking sounds when the vehicle turns.

Steering System: Check the steering system components, including the tie rods, steering knuckles, and steering column. Damaged or worn parts can lead to clicking noises during turns.
Brake Caliper Issues: Sometimes, a loose brake caliper or worn brake pads can cause clicking sounds. Ensure that the brake caliper bolts are properly tightened and that the brake pads are in good condition.

Axle Shaft: The axle shaft connects the transmission to the wheels. If there's damage or wear on the axle shaft, it can result in clicking noises. Inspect the axle shaft for any signs of damage.
Here are some steps you can take to diagnose and address the issue:

Visual Inspection: Jack up the vehicle again and inspect the components mentioned above. Look for any visible damage, loose parts, or signs of wear.

Test Drive: Take the car for a test drive and pay attention to when the clicking sound occurs. Does it happen during slow turns, sharp turns, or both? This information can help narrow down the cause.
Professional Inspection: If you're unable to identify the issue, consider taking the vehicle to a qualified mechanic. They can perform a thorough inspection, diagnose the problem.

Mounts. Check transmission and engine mounts. Sounds to me that the mounts are worn/broken, causing excess strain on the cv's, which probably was the cause of the cv's going bad. This would also explain the vibration.

cv joints are covered with a plastic/rubber boot to keep the road dirt out and lubricating grease in''the inner works of a cv joint are an alloy metal with honeycomb chambers for the joint bearings to fit inside of..do this.. take your left hand and make a fist..then fit the fist into the spread open fingers of the right hand ..rotate both hands together back and forth..your ncv axle turns in much the same way..when dirt gets into the joint due to cover failure..this joint wears out because it has engine torque(twisting) pressure on it while moving..along with grit and dirt grinding away at both the metal and the bearings inside causing lots of slop in the joint..now if the engine torque becomes too strong for the worn out chambers in the joint, they will break..remember they arent steel,,they are alloy..thus rendering the joint unuseable ( slip your left hand inside the right between the fingers to grt the idea.. thats what the cv joint on your car is doing...so replacement is necessary..its not an easy job since most cars front suspension is opened up during this proceedure,,,car is ten years old do you feel that its worth the money? call for rates first...good luck and repost findings thnx

Your intuition is correct - there's a suspension system problem causing the clanking.
But, without jacking up the car and looking for it, there's no way for a mechanic
to tell what it would be exactly.
My suspicion - a clamp holding down the anti-sway bar has rusted over the
last 10 years and broken - and replacing it could cost as little at $20 at a parts
store, but damage to other components from an un-clamped anti-sway bar could cost
$hundreds and $hundreds. Drive your MPV as little as possible until this suspension
problem is fixed.
But, it could be shocks, Macpherson struts, box-beam section of the Uni-body,
lower ball joint(s), upper ball joint(s), spring(s), spring holder(s), broken anti-sway bar,
lower control arm(s), upper control arm(s), or a loose tail gate or loose bumper.
The car's computer will be useless - they monitor the engine/emissions/fuel systems
closely, but no nothing of suspension system problems.

You could have a bad wheel bearing or a bad CV joint. Inspect your CV joint by turning the wheel all the way to the left and inspect the rubber boot for any signs of damage and see if there is any play by grabbing the CV joint and try to move it.
The other way to check is to drive the van slowly in an empty parking lot turning the wheel to one side and then the other. Listen for any abnormal noise and see if you can feel anything lose through you steering wheel.
If there is any signs of damage to the CV joint like oil leaking or movement. Replace the CV joint as soon as possible, and try not to drive the van till you have the CV joint replaced or the wheel bearing. Total CV joint failure will cause you to have the van towed to have it replaced. Try to drive it to the Garage to save you the tow cost.
Thank you for using fixya and be safe.

It is possible in many ways. If the CV joint is not replace soon you can cause the joint to break inwhich the axle shaft can shift hard into the transmission housing causing extensive damage for instance. Further more suspension damage can result also

there are tow types, with ABS and W/O ABS, they come as a half shaft assmebly, this is a axle and CV joint together. here are the 2 part numbers for left and right axle with CV joint. Price and Part s are from www.rockauto.com, the lowest price on the internet I could find, very fast shipping.

THESE ARE FOR THE RIGHT SIDE AXLE AND CV JOINT ASSEMBLY.
A-1 CARDONE Part # 604153 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Right; w/ABS
$42.99

A-1 CARDONE Part # 604152 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Right; w/o ABS
$42,99

THESE ARE LEFT SIDE AXLE AND CV JOINT ASSEMBLY.
A-1 CARDONE Part # 604155 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Left; w/M.T. w/ABS
$53.79

A-1 CARDONE Part # 604150 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
Front Left; w/A.T. w/o ABS
$51.79

If you have NOT had the abs sensor disconnected as part of the process for this repair then it is likely that the sensor has been damaged by the knocking of a hammer on the suspension!
If you have had it disconnected then the dealer will need to reset it with their diagnostic equipment. You should always remove abs sensors before hammering on suspension components

I would check the sway bar linkages, they are usually the first to go, and they are only $40. Its an easy 'do it yourself' project, remove the old one with torches or a grinder (with a small cutting wheel). You can also use a vise grip and sockets but it takes longer.

You can't tell these are damaged until you remove the part. I change mine every 100 000km or so.

You will have to take the front suspension loose enough to pull it out of the way to get the CV joint out