I am hooking up a leviton 1755 3 rocker switch that controls a light, fan, heater all in one ceiling unit. The old switch had the white wire in the top switch, one black in the middle and the other black and red in the bottom switch. It had two small black wires going from switch one to two and another wire from switch two switch three. How do I connect this new switch with the wiring coming out of the box which is one white wire, two black wires and one red wire.

Not sure from your description.
Copy following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#triple

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1) Copy following link to see wiring diagrams:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#triple

2) There are two basic wiring type, depending if power wire and neutral arrive in switch box first, or power wire and neutral arrive in ceiling box.

3) Most homes, the power wire is in ceiling box.
In this case, a minimum of 4 wires are needed between ceiling box and switch.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Ledio, I am unable to access specific photos on Picassa
https://plus.google.com/106982528064073343888/posts

I have downloaded instruction manual for 1755 rocker switch
This is ordinary triple-rocker-switch to control 3 different loads.
It is like having 3 single pole switches and each switch controls a separate light (Load)
This is single pole switch for 120Volt, and not suited necessarily for 240Volt loads.
Switch is not for 3-way application as typically found in hallway where 2 switches control same light.

1) You have 4 wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test.
There are 4 types of wires in 120Volt and 240V household wiring: Hot wire, Neutral wire, Load wire, and ground wire.
Load wire means the wire that connects to switch and goes to Light, fan, motor (load)
Hot wire always connects to one side of switch.
Neutral never connects to switch.
Load wires connect to side of switch opposite Hot wire.
Bare copper ground wire connects to any green ground screw.

2) One-and-only-one wire in each 120Volt electrical box is Hot. (assuming you are not replacing
3-way switch or working with 240V)

3) Separate all 4 wires for testing. Tape tester leads to wood sticks. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester will light up on Hot wire.

4) Hot is identified. Next, find the neutral wire if it is among the 4 wires.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on neutral wire.
Tester will not light up on Load wires.

5) NOT EVERY switch box has a neutral. Or the neutral wires can be twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.
The neutral may be up in the light fixture. Neutral located in ceiling box is typical with bathroom fan-light-heater combos.
If neutral is not one of the 4 wires, then don't worry about the neutral connection because it will already be wired together.

6) Image of 1755 switch shows 1 screw terminal on the Hot side, so connect Hot wire to this single screw.
Other side of switch has 3 screws for connecting each of 3 Load wires.
Note: Neutral wire is NEVER connected to a switch.
http://www.frostelectric.com/WOE-IMAGES/00381764.jpg

7) Since I cannot see wiring project or know what loads or how the testing comes out, I suggest connect the Hot wire to single screw terminal.
And then connect 1 of the other wires to other side of switch. Not a neutral.
Turn power ON, and try switch.
Process of elimination might yield result.

8) Add a comment with more question, and it sends e-mail. I will respond.
More resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/How-to-wire-double-rocker-s.jpg

The switch that you have works like 3 seperate switches. most of these switches will have gold screws
on one side and silver screws on the other side, lets say that the left is gold and the right is silver, and
the switch may also have a green screw for ground. your 12/2 with ground is your main hot, you may
want to mark it with a piece of tape, so you know it's the incoming hot. the ground off your hot will tie,
to the green screw on switch and continue and tie to your vent light which should also have a ground
the white coming off the hot is your neutral, it will go straight to your white or whites on your heater.
the black hot wire at your switch will go to each gold terminal on one side of the switch,there are two
ways you can do this, go to one side and just run a jumper, or put one wire on each gold screw and
tie in to your hot-black wire with a wire nut. now for the switch legs, you will need to run from your, switch
to your heater either another pair of 12/2s or a 12/3, each side of the switch that has one silver screw,
it's easier with a 12/3 normally a 12/3 will have a red,black,white,and ground.
top switch red to red on heater,black to black on light and the white blue on the vent,so from your switch
to the heater you would have to run a12/2 you would not use the black only the white and ground.
remember the white-neutral coming from the switch will be tied to all the whites at the vent,light,heater
except for the 10/3. the 10/3 is used stricktly for the switch legs. good luck!

depenns on your wattage thhn 12-14 gauge would be safer

I can help, but I need a lot more specific info. Please use these naming conventions to describe what you have:
G1, G2 -- the two gangs of 4 switches each G1S1 - the first switch in gang 1 L1 - light, appliance or outlet number 1
Describe how each light is controlled as follows: L1 - G1S1 & G2S1 (one light controlled by a pair of 3-way switches) L2,L3 - G1S2 (assumes a normal switch controlling two lights) etc. for all of the L's presently controlled by all 8 switches
Then describe what you want the 6 new switches to operate.

I suggest you cut 3 pigtails out of your black wire (about 5-6" each and strip them so you can put a nut to tie them all together on the main wire, then do the same for your grounds using green 5-6" strips of wire and then connect all 3 switches with the pigtails to their proper locations. This WILL fix your problem.

remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

Switch will have a commom terminal that the hot wire connects to.
The other three terminals are for the devices -- light, fan and other device.

The white wires should be the grounded wire returns for the circuits unless they are identified by color tape to be hot line side of power.

Be careful of the grounded side of circuit, can shock or kill, treat all wires as being energised. If you are not sure, use a electrical tester,
or get help.