Traulsen RLT232NUTHHS Commercial Freezer Logo
Posted on Jan 09, 2011
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Evaporator ice up and unit has a temp at 31F not going down in singles digits

  • morton1 Jan 09, 2011

    thanks i did that i just want to be sure

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1 Answer

Charles T Nevin

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  • Master 4,070 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 09, 2011
Charles T Nevin
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Melt the iced up evaporator with a hairdryer for a temp. fix. The auto defrost system isn't working. I can't find diagrams of yours but here is basically how it works.

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

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The unit beeps and temperature flucuates

this could be an issue with the defrost cycle. if ice build up accumulates the on the inside coil (evaporator), it restricts the air flow and you get alarms for being out of temp. usual signs are ice build up around the coil area. look for that first. be sure the door closes and seals too.
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Cannot get temperature down

If the evaporator coils are not being insulated by ice formation then maybe the thermostat is defective not allowing the refrigerator to cycle for enough time to adequately cool. And if the unit is constantly running and cools insufficiently you might have developed a refrigerant leak.

Your internal freezer temp should be around zero to 4 degrees if all systems are go and you have good gaskets.
Mar 14, 2014 • Freezers
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Not freezing enough

You might have ice building up on your evaporator coil. That ice serves as an insulator and prevents the internal freezer temps from going down to design parameters. The ice buildup is caused by the defrost mechanism not working - check the timer or the defrost heating element.
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Top 3 shelves don't freeze

Cold air sinks. If evaporator temp is not low enough only the items on bottom of freezer will get cold and possibly freeze - stuff on top will not.
Throw a digital thermometer in there towards the top shelves and I bet your temps are high. Low refrigerant will cause this; furthermore, if you leave the refrigerator door open by accident, the refrigerator will never shut off, the freezer evaporator will freeze over with a block of ice, and the freezer temps will be higher. If that is what happened, simply unplug the unit and allow it to self defrost and then turn it back on for proper operation and make sure that the refrigerator door is properly closed!
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Does not get cold enough

If refrigerant charge is ok, make sure that the evaporator coil is not covered with ice. The latter serves as an insulator and will keep unit from achieving designed low temps. Remove ice by defrosting unit manually and then restarting unit. If ice continues to build up at alarming rate check for the tightness of door gaskets. If lots of moisture gets into unit, it will collect and freeze on coil. Also check to see that the defrost timer is not going on excessively. Those defrost cycles can raise internal temps by as much as 25 degrees; if the cycles come on prematurely and/or very often internal temps will be high.
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Continental Freezer model F2 404A refrigerant not cooling properly. Replaced cap tube, and filter drier, evacuated, and charged. Box temp not going below 32' and ice forming at beginning of evaporator....

Check the compressor efficiency. See if it will pump down. In most cases, a good compressor will pull down to about 15" vacuum. Also, be sure that the refrigerant amount was weighed in and not done by pressures only.
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Is working but not keep the temp down to were we need it

Check the condenser is clean, any fans are working full speed, and the evaporator isn't iced up. A full defrost will do it some good too!
May 11, 2012 • Freezers
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The inside of unit is only reading 20 degrees. Door seal is okay.

Start off by cleaning the condenser coils. If you get up on a step ladder or chair look for the radiator in front of a fan. This radiator gets hot when running. If the air flow is stopped by dust or grease in the coils ther freezer will not work properly. Be sure the fan is running also whenever the compressor is running. The next most common problem is that the inside coils are frozen over. Your unit must defrost 3 or 4 times per day. When the door is opened frost accumulates on the inside coils and will eventually cover the coils with ice if your defrost cycle is not working. If the coil freezes over the temperature will go up, the compressor will continue to run and it the temperature will continue to increase. Check the inside coils for ice. If there is ice, you will have to unplug the unit and let the ice thaw completely before restart. If the unit pulls down to 0 after restart, it was probably frozen over. If that is the case you will need to either increase the number of defrost cycles or verify that the defrost cycle is working. Try this and repost if that does not resolve your problems.
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Freezer not cooling, food is defrosting, model# 28042 sears ask me to clean off the coil where is the cooling coil located

To answere your question : The cooling coil is called the evaporator and is located behind the backwall of the freezer.....But this is not what they want you to clean. They want you to clean the condenser coil, witch is either the big black coils on the back of the unit or they are located under the unit.

you might also make sure you here the fan inside the freezer. open the door and press the door switch and see if you here the fan running. if you don't, then you might have a evaperator fan motor that is bad.

The next thing you shoud check is the back wall of the freezer have frost or did it have frost on it. if it did you have a defrost problem.

This is where you should start. There are many other things that could be rong.

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Thaw's. Turn-off for period of time it would freeze as normal

Make sure nothing is inhibiting air flow. I don't think it is advisable to store food in an ice machine however that is not likely the problem unless the food itself is inhibiting air flow. Most ice machine manufacturers recommend against storing any food in an ice machine. If there is a freezer component in you model the check to see if the evaporator coils are frosting up and the frost is blocking airflow causing the ice storage chamber to get warm. High humidity can cause frosting. Leaving a door to the ice maker open too long can cause frosting. A low refrigerant charge can do this although it seems logically like it should not. With a very slightly low charge one end of the evaporator gets super cold and the other end is not cold enough. Frosts starts collecting on the super cold end and accumulates across the evaporator coil to the other end eventually blocking all air flow. With too much humidity from open doors frost accumulates over the entire evaporator evenly but still blocks. You shut the unit down. It thaws out and works OK on restart until frost again builds up. If its not a frosting problem but it just stops making ice then the ice may not be releasing. Check the water supply and change any filters to insure good water flow. A good water supply is required for proper release and harvest of the ice in many ice machines. If the ice doesn't release it takes a shut down and thaw to clear the suspended ice out. Check for these things and write back if you need further assistance and can provide me with more details.


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