Please help! Jamo SUB 300 subwoofer still blows (0.8A) fuses after replacing a faulty thermistor, despite a high ohms reading directly across AC mains terminals on the board. What is causing the fuse to blow as if a dead short is present? I don't know where to find a schematic cct diagram for it.

Internal power? Check fuses. No fuses? Disassemble and check Power supply if it is internal. If it is external, check power supply with meter.;.

Having an error code on your appliance can be an inconvenience and I know how important it is to have a good working dryer.

The "F25" indicates the INLET THERMISTOR is shorted or the INLET THERMISTOR circuit is shorted. If you replaced the inlet thermistor and control board then it may have bad inlet thermistor circuit. You should disconnect the thermistor circuit connections at the thermistor and control board and test the thermistor circuit for continuity. Check the circuit to see it happens to be open or shorted with an ohm meter.

The inlet thermistor is located on the side of the heating element housing is a thermistor and high limit combination. The part number is 8557403. The inlet thermistor portion of the thermistor/high limit will have two solid red wires connected to it. It could have faulty new thermistor or it could have an open or shorted thermistor circuit or a faulty control board. The thermistor can be checked with and ohm meter. Disconnect the two red wires and place the ohm meter leads across the two terminals. At room temperature it should measure approximately 50k ohms of resistance. If it measures 50 k, then it should be reconnected and then the sensor circuit disconnected from the control board and retested at the harness wires to see if you get the same measurement reading. If it does measure the same, and it continues to display F25, it could have a faulty control board.

What is your model number?

the easiest solution is to get yourself a cord that switches from headphone plug to RCA and connect it that way. I sure hope that this helps you in hooking your ipad up to the Jamo 200 Sub. Thanks, Cody

try replace the blown fuse with ampere and check the sound if still ok.
some fuse got blown if the load current exceed. maybe high volume can cause the high current.
other cause by short circuit coming from the amplifier.

Refer to the applicable Jamo manual.

http://www.jamo.com/na-en/support/owners-manuals/

http://www.jamo.com/images/download/313.aspx

Find it here...

http://www.jamo.com/na-en/support/owners-manuals/

http://www.jamo.com/images/download/779.aspx


The Jamo is self-amplified and accepts Line Level input ONLY.

The HTP-2500 receiver drives a subwoofer directly with SPEAKER LEVEL output only and does not have a volume-controlled output for driving externally-amplified devices.

There is a fuse under the plug, check that first.

If the subwoofer has its own power cord seperate from the rest of the audio system, the internal amplifier could be fried or u have a loose connection inside the box

THE IS A FUSE INSIDE THE UNIT,YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK THAT.IF IT BLOWS AGAIN WHEN TURNED ON YOU HAVE SHORTED MOSFETS. THEY ARE LIKE TRANSISTORS.

Well it would void the warrantee, but you can take the back panel off and the power supply will only have two leads (3 if grounded) in from the plug, and out to the crossover. It sounds as if you are correct that the power supply is bad.

Charles