Oops, I ran it too long without checking/filling the oil, and it seized up. What do I do now? (The motor stopped running while refilling the air tank, so I pulled the dipstick, and it was dry and smoking. Now, every time I turn it on, it just hums for a second and trips the breaker.) Is it worth trying to fix, or should I save the time and effort, and just accept the fact that it is ruined?

SOURCE: I have an older air compressor and it works very

brushes or bearings but i would test your windings first just to make sure you dont have a bad set you need a continuity meter and isolate you windings this is all done in the wiring conection box on motor let me know if you need more help i can give you a step by step explination

SOURCE: what size line should i run to a 60 gallon air

You need to up size your wire. According to one site I pulled up on the Intranet and input your information, which was 208VAC, 15 AMP and 375 feet it said you need #6 AWG wire.

SOURCE: Compressor won't sstay running and trip breaker

You gave a lot of information, but you didn't say if it worked when free wheeling. If not, I would suspect the inertia switch. If it is working, you should hear it click when the motor is winding down after being shut off, at least when free wheeling. A 20 amp breaker will certainly handle a 15 FLA motor, even on startup. They don't trip at 20 amps exactly, especially on a simple overload. Even at twice the rated amperage, it can take several minutes to trip it. They will trip quickly on a dead short, however, or a severe overload. I doubt the windings are shorted or it either wouldn't work (start windings) or would run at a slower speed with the inertia switch constantly tripping in and out with it coasting while tripped in (i.e., accelerate, coast, accelerate, coast, etc.)

SOURCE: The motor runs fine with

Turn the compressor pump pulley by hand (with belt off) and air pressure in the tank. It should be very easy to turn. If it is hard to turn, evaluate the check valve for leak. If no leak examine crank bearings for damage. Repair as needed. If easy to turn fault is with motor. Check amp draw with belt removed. When the motor comes on, it should draw about 15 amps and drop lower. The motor should start and reach full rpm in a split second. It should start with a bang and run smoothly with-out getting hot and only pull low amount of amps. If slow start and high amp draw, check capacitor/s and or start winding switch inside of motor. Sometimes the start switch will burn the contacts and give trouble. If both capacitors test within 95% of value and start switch appears to be good, look for damaged copper windings. Windings will be discolored or burned and the tie strings binding the windings will be melted. Replace as needed. Good holidays

SOURCE: I have an Emglo compressor which firers up without

If the in-tank check valve is leaking air back into discharge line from the pump, the motor will not have enough power to overcome headpressure. Easy test with some air in the tank. Remove the discharge hose at the brass check valve at tank. Spray soapy water on valve to test for leak. If leaking remove the valve and clean the seat or replace as needed (drain air from tank before you remove the valve). If no leak at the valve, test the capacitor(should read to within 95% of mfd rating). Good luck