What set of screws do i use for the house wires and i have a light i want to connect do i use the wires that r connected to the unit or the second set of screws

I can help u with this but will need to b able to walk u thru it,

Wait... you cannot replace light switch with outlet receptacle.
You have to test wires first.... then Hot wire connects to brass screw on receptacle,,,, and neutral wire connects to silver screw ( ground to green screw) ... you got several important details right, but you have to identify hot and neutral wires first.
Read instructions:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html#test

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-add-outlet.html

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Red from switch goes to two blacks, blue from switch goes to two blacks and the black wire goes thru top of light and attaches to blue fan light wire. If you want a good fan, look for blade pitch(13 degree or higher)Or CFM's above 5500 on high.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

1. 
   
   
   
   
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     1
     
     
     
     Turn the electricity to the air conditioning unit off at the
     service disconnect box. Follow the wires from the AC unit to the
     disconnect box, usually located next to the unit. Open the disconnect
     box and, depending on the type, either pull the buss-bar or flip the
     disconnect switch.
     
     
     
     
   
   
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     2
     
     
     
     Open the air handler\'s access panels with the correct size of nut driver, usually 5/16- or 1/4-inch. Save the screws.
     
     
     
     
   
   
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     Remove the control panel\'s cover, if equipped, with a nut
     driver. Some models have a flat metal cover over the electronic
     controls, and some control panels butt up to the unit\'s access cover.
     Save the screws and access cover.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     4
     
     
     
     Follow the wires from the blower motor. Two wires will go to
     a capacitor located on the blower\'s housing. The rest of the wires will
     go to the control panel.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     5
     
     
     
     Cut the wires leading into the control panel with wire cutters. Leave the cut wires connected inside of the control panel.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     6
     
     
     
     Remove the retaining bolts with either a nut driver, usually
     3/8-inch, or an adjustable wrench. The retaining bolts, found on the
     mounting brackets that the blower\'s housing slides on, keep the blower\'s
     housing locked into position. Save the bolts.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     7
     
     
     
     Slide the blower motor\'s housing out of the AC unit. The housing will slide straight out along the mounting brackets.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     8
     
     
     
     Disconnect the two wires going to the capacitor. They will pull straight off the capacitor\'s terminals.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     9
     
     
     
     Unscrew the squirrel cage\'s locking-screw with an adjustable
     wrench. The squirrel cage, the bladed wheel, connects to the blower
     motor\'s shaft inside of the housing. The locking screw holds the
     squirrel cage to the shaft.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     10
     
     
     
     Unscrew the blower motor\'s mounting screws with either a nut
     driver, usually 3/8-inch, or an adjustable wrench. These screws hold
     the motor to the housing and are found on the opposite side of the
     squirrel cage, the same side that the wires leave the motor.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     11
     
     
     
     Pull the motor from the housing. A drop of oil on the shaft
     will aid in removal. If the squirrel cage sticks to the shaft, then hold
     the shaft still with an adjustable wrench while spinning the squirrel
     cage on the shaft.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     12
     
     
     
     Slide the new blower motor into the housing. The blower motor\'s shaft will slide into the squirrel cage\'s hole.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     13
     
     
     
     Tighten the blower motor\'s mounting screws.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     14
     
     
     
     Spin the blower motor\'s shaft until the flat part of the
     shaft lines up with the squirrel cage\'s locking screw. Move the squirrel
     cage in or out until it does not touch the housing or the blower motor.
     Tighten the locking screw.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     15
     
     
     
     Connect the blower motor\'s capacitor wires, usually brown or
     brown with white stripes, to the capacitor. Direct replacement motors
     use the same color-coded wires as the original.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     16
     
     
     
     Slide the blower motor\'s housing into the AC unit along the mounting brackets. Install the mounting bracket\'s retaining bolts.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     17
     
     
     
     Connect the new blower motor\'s wires in the control panel
     one at a time. Disconnect one old wire in the control panel. Determine
     its color and connect the new wire, of the same color, to its place. Do
     this for all wires.
     
     
     
     
   
   
   • 
     18
     
     
     
     Replace the control panel\'s cover, if equipped, and the
     unit\'s access cover. Turn on the power to the unit at the disconnect box
     and test the blower motor.
     
     
     
     
   
   

can't quite make out the question, but feel your fear-o-stick.

You have 3 way switch.
So 2 different switches control same light(s)
If this is true, then wires are reversed on one switch or the other, or both switches are wrong.

I've been there.
Copy following links to see illustration of typical 3-way switch wiring, and then lets do some testing.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15312-3-way-circuit-600.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#3-way

Each 3-way switch has 3 screws (plus green ground screw)
We are not going to discuss the green ground screw.
Each 3-way switch has a 'common' screw. And two traveler screws.

Th common screw should be different color than other two screws.
Or there is a marking on back of device that denotes 'common.'
Please note your common screws.

Disconnect all wires from both switches.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Tape wood sticks to tester so hands are away from power.
Stand on dry surface or boards. Never stand on bare ground.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GFCI-protection-2-402.jpg

Power is ON. All 3 switch wires are separated on both switches, so you have 6 total wires to test.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
One and only one wire will test for live power to ground.
This is Hot wire, and it will connect to 'common' screw.
Other two wires will connect to two traveler screws.
Switch #1 is done.

Turn power ON again. Three wires are still separated on second switch.
At second switch, test each wire to bare ground. Note which wire shows power. This is a traveler wire.
Go back to first switch and flip the switch other direction.
Repeat test at second switch. Note which wire shows power. This is also a traveller wire.
There should be 2 traveler wires.
Connect these two wires to the screws that are NOT common.
Other wire connects to 'common' screw.

ADD A COMMENT for more help.

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This connection is for 240 volts ONLY on the Intermatic GM40.

The first thing you need to do is make sure the Input Voltage Dip Switch (IVDS) is set correctly for 240 volts. The IVDS switch is located to the left of the terminal strip and just slightly above it. 4 is set to OFF, 3 is set to ON, 2 is set to OFF, and 1 is set to ON.

The first wire of the incoming (LINE) 240 volt cable (pick one) is connected to "L1" (the 1st terminal screw on the left). Also jumper a wire from "L1" to COM (the 5th terminal screw from the left).

The second wire of the incoming 240 volts is connected to "L2/N" (the 2nd terminal screw from the left). Also connect one of the wires (pick one) from the outgoing (LOAD) 240 volt cable to the "L2/N" terminal.

Connect the second wire of the outgoing 240 volts to the "NO" terminal (the 4th terminal screw from the left).

If you not sure which cable is which, turn OFF the circuit breaker suppying the timer, separate all the wires, turn the circuit breaker back ON. The cable that is hot is the incoming (LINE). Turn breaker back OFF and wire as above.

Generally you will have three wires

1. bare or green wire this is your ground and is secured to the outside of the water heater usually with a green colored screw provide with the unit.

2. connect the black wire from the house to the red wire on the unit.

3 connect the white wire from the house to the white wire from the unit.

In general as long as you hook up the two power wires from the house with the two power wires from the unit it does not matter as one wire will supply 110v and the other wire will also provide 110v..

Verify check and reverify that the power is off anytime you are working with wires.

Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. Before condeming the compressor it will need to be checked for grounded or open windings. If you are handy with an electric meter you can check the windings of the compressor. First thing to do turn the power off to the outside unit using the circuit breaker in the house or at the disconnect outside. The take the covers off the unit till you get access to the compressor which is located in the center of the outside unit. You will see a cover on the side of the conpressor where the wires go in take this cover off and you will see the connections with your meter set to ohms where it beeps when you touch the leads together check from wire connection to wire and check all three to each other. If those show resistance then still with the meter set to ohms beep ground one prond from the electric meter and then touch each wire connection one at a time with the other lead from the meter. If there is no resistance or beep on any of the connections then the compressor is not grounded. If both these checks are okay then I would put a hard start capacitor on the existing compressor capacitor to give the compressor a boost on start up so it doesn't pop the breaker.

Don't hardwire the disposal. That's against plumbing and electrical code. House will not pass inspection.

That being said.
Electricians don't guess, they test.

Note which wires were connected on same screw.
Do not untwist any wires..
Separate individual wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot connects to Brass screw on ordinary receptacle.
Hot is identified.
Test Hot to each other wire, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral. Neutral connects to Silver screw on ordinary receptacle.

Load wire goes to disposal.
To put power to Load, then Load wire also connects to brass screw along with Hot wire.

all of the white wires connect together and to the white house wiring (neutral from ceiling) ..also the neutral or return wire for the controller (may also be white) .. then the black house wiring(or red if you have an external wall switch) is connected to the controller wire marked AC or AC input .. the output marked "lamp" on the controller connects to the blue wire that goes to the light bulb (or bulbs) ... the output called fan goes to the black wire of the fan motor .. the green house wire goes to either a bare wire, green wire or a green bolt that is screwed to the metal of the fan.. thats the safety ground ...