How do I change the stiches?

Te 'handwheel' is the top knob on the right.
The 'Pattern Selector Dial' is below it.

If you are using that dial and it isn't changing the stich, it must have become disconnected inside.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/483895/Brother-Xl-3200.html?page=16#manual

https://www.google.com/search?q=brother+xl-3200+only+straight+stitches

..

Perhaps the manual will help:

Manuals PX 100 200 300 Others Brother

Read your book. The other 9 stitches are stretch stitches, you get them by turning your stitch length dial to ss or something like that.

For all sewing machines, stitch length would be set to 2.5 and width would be zero to get a standard straight stitch.

For medium weight cotton like calico I would use a size 70 or 80 sharp needle and top tension on the preset setting, this is usually 4 or 5 some some machines but it should be marked.

Important thing is a new sharp needle, then if you find the stitching is pulling a little, loosen off the top tension dial just a .5 and test again.

You should not need to adjust bottom bobbin tension unless its been changed/fiddled with. Some machines will have a little dial with a red marking on the right position (horizontal types). Not sure if yours is a top loading bobbin or front loading into a bobbin case (early Husqs are front loading). So if yours is a bobbin into a bobbin case, front loading, then you may need to check that the tension is right on the bobbin case tension spring. You can do this by doing the "dangle" test, put the thread into the tension spring, then dangle the bobbin by holding the thread tail up and letting the bobbin hang, it should hold its own weight but if you jolt the thread, it should let go and release some thread out.

Hope this makes sense, there is good sewing info at www.about.sewing.com and good threading up troubleshooting at www.sewusa.com if you need pictures to help.

Here is a threading diagram for this industrial machine
http://www.sewusa.com/Threading_Diagrams/Threading_Pages/Juki_Sewing_machine_threading/Juki_552_553_555_227_Threading_Diagram.htm

You can also buy a manual here
http://www.sewusa.com/Sewing_Machine_Manuals/Juki_Manuals/Juki_Industrial_Sewing_Machine_Manuals/227-552-553-555_Instruction_Manual.htm for this model.

I would have thought there would be some sort of screw or adjustment to control stitch length but I can't find an image for your model.
However this image might help, http://www.johnharbsew.com/images/threading/JUKI-DNU-241-TD.jpg, my Singer 20U, has a dial like this with numbers on that you adjust for length, is there something similar on the Juki?

I have the same model, have you turned the first knob on left, the stitch selector, to the stitch you want? Then turn the middle knob, the stitch width to "4". Use the colour guide marks shown in the little picture on left of the knobs so you are dialing up the right settings. So for the zig zag, elastic blind hem, scallop, overcasting and multi-stretch stiches, 1-6 on the diagram you'll be setting the left knob to 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 respectively and the stitch width and length knobs to "green", you can vary the length and width to suit what you want.

Then for the cams, you need to set everything zero, turn stitch selector to 7, the cam setting. then turn the width to orange again (3-4) and the stitch lenth selector to the orange setting, right around the knob. This engages the "Elnagraph" the device under the flap on top of the machine to read the discs. Basically the green stitches the needle is swinging from side to side while the feed dogs move the fabric forward, making your zig zags, blind hems etc.
But when you engage the Elna graph, the machine matches stiches by moving the fabric "forward and backwards at certain times, while the needle does its thing from side to side. This is what makes elastic or stretchy type stitches because you are putting "stretch" into the seam by sewing forwards and backwards.

Please note: always turn your stitch width and length back to Zero BEFORE you make any changes to the left knob and select a new stitch as this saves on wear and tear to the moving parts in these wonderful machines.

I do hope this assists you and I haven't just told you stuff you already knew!

I have the same model, have you turned the first knob on left, the stitch selector, to the stitch you want? Then turn the middle knob, the stitch width to "4". Use the colour guide marks shown in the little picture on left of the knobs so you are dialing up the right settings. So for the zig zag, elastic blind hem, scallop, overcasting and multi-stretch stiches, 1-6 on the diagram you'll be setting the left knob to 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 respectively and the stitch width and length knobs to "green", you can vary the length and width to suit what you want.

Then for the cams, you need to set everything zero, turn stitch selector to 7, the cam setting. then turn the width to orange again (3-4) and the stitch lenth selector to the orange setting, right around the knob. This engages the "Elnagraph" the device under the flap on top of the machine to read the discs. Basically the green stitches the needle is swinging from side to side while the feed dogs move the fabric forward, making your zig zags, blind hems etc.
But when you engage the Elna graph, the machine matches stiches by moving the fabric "forward and backwards at certain times, while the needle does its thing from side to side. This is what makes elastic or stretchy type stitches because you are putting "stretch" into the seam by sewing forwards and backwards.

Please note: always turn your stitch width and length back to Zero BEFORE you make any changes to the left knob and select a new stitch as this saves on wear and tear to the moving parts in these wonderful machines.

I do hope this assists you and I haven't just told you stuff you already knew!

hi! this particular problem is common when tension and stiches adjustment does not match and complied to fabrics your trying to sew,there a is hard way to find manual specialy to old ones. but if you want it may help you some i got here on manual sears 1803.if your control look similar to this in figure there are stitch control one for straight stitching and one
on special stitching.the small dial near needle is tension dial.You can set tension on # 3 to 5
stitch dial as in figureif you are
sewing a straight stiches set to # 8 to 12 trial are needed somtimes to acquired smooth sewing,Be sure no mechanical problem regarding in machine operation.try to sew a cotton fabric for trial then if sewing another fabrics sudden adjustment should be done.If your machine is equipted by auto tension just select on the fabrics.well small information can sometime helpfull ...nice sewing

You have selected the Stretch Stich (SS) mode on the stitch length regulator, just turn the knob around until you have a number 1 - 5 and that should be it.
The model number will be the last digits on the metal compliance plate with voltage etc.....looks like:
V / 1234 / 123454321 / 2016
www.bargainbox.com.au
This then would be a Model 2016

You can do all of these stitches by using different combinations of your stitch selector, stitch width and stitch feed knobs, for instance, on the panel I can see on your machine:

http://www.jo-ann.com/joann/product/images/52659.jsp?CATID=cat3122&PRODID=prd11333

Stitches 1, 2 & 3 are straight stitches, centered, left and right. Really basic stuff, not different stitches at all. 4,5,6,7 & 8 are zig-zag stitches of different widths. 9 is the widest zig-zag (no. 8) on a finer stitch length, etc...

I think you should try and get an instruction manual for your machine. After a lengthy search of my usual manual sources, I've determined that that this may not be so easy. I think you should contact White on their 800 number and let them try and help you... 1-800-331-3164.

If you found this helpful, please vote generously as I receive nothing other than acknowledgement for my time.